72 dart blinkers

[67Dart273]

^^To add to the above^^ There are 3 lamp circuits in the rear of the car, and if equipped, one extra for the trunk lamp
1...Tail lamps and side markers are one circuit, and as mentioned above, the tail lamp filaments are in the same bulb as the stop - turn filament

2....Stop/ turn filament in the same bulb as the tail lamps

3....Reverse lamps in the clear section of the tail lamp housing.

HOW THIS WORKS. The key is the turn signal switch, which routes lamp power

1...With TS switch centered, switched brake lamp power comes from the pedal brake switch to the TS switch, and it connects that power to both rear stop/ turn filaments.

2....With TS switch on say, left turn, the TS switch leaves brake lamp power going to the right stop/ turn lamp filament, and of course routes the flasher power to the front and rear turn signal filaments.

3...In hazard, the hazard switch routes power from the hazard flasher to all four lamps.

What goes in TS switch:

IN:
A: turn signal flasher power, only with key "on"
B: Switched brake power from the pedal switch
C: Hazard flasher power on all the time

WHAT comes out:
1...Left front turn signal filament
2...Right front turn signal filament
3...Left rear stop/ turn filament
4...Right rear stop / turn filament

 

[Dave999]

AH didn't see 67darts post

wrote this last night and forgot to post it submitted this morning....

this still looked like a 1 page thread when i came back to my PC

it might be useful so i'll leave it

Hazzard flasher uses a power supply from the non switched side of the fuse box into the hazzard flasher the out to the light units via the hazzard flasher switch
switch on. power goes through flasher down wires to all 4 of the bulbs, through bulb to the body of the lamp back through body of car to battery negative and the flashers work

this means that your bulbs and your lamps have a good earth and you have no problem with the bulbs in the dash.
wireing out to the lamps at each corner of the car is also good.

Direction indication does not work..
so
given that the issue is not the bulbs or lamps and is not with the wire to the lamps it has to be with one of the following

1)power supply to the direction indciator flasher (fuse or wireing)
2) power supply from the direction indicator flasher to the indicator swith
3) a problem with the flasher unit used for indicators
4) an issue with the indicator switch
4) becasue it is affecting both directions it is unlikley to be the wire connections from the indictor switch to the lamps there are 2 and neither works. but both get power from the same place, namely the flasher unit as appropriate, when you swith to go either left or right

Hidden in the middle of the dash near the ash tray will be the flasher units. take out glove box and ash tray and spy in there with a mirror and torch
these are usually a zinc passivated yellowy round round can with a crimped in fibre base with either 2 or 3 flat spade connectors sticking out from it. They usually have a modular plastic plug so you can only fit them 1 way round on the wire loom connector.
they are often pressed into a clip section welded onto an upright support under the dash so that the click they make is amplified by the dash structure

set hazzards to on
check all lamps blink
remove a flasher unit from its connector, if the lamps stop you have found the hazzard flasher and you know it works.
swap the other flasher unit in to its place, and if the lamps start flashing again the problem with the indicators is not caused by this flasher unit becasue its working now as part of the hazzard circuit.
label hazzard and indicator flasher units as appropriate

switch off hazzards

switch on igntion
switch the idicator stalk to left or right. doesn;t matter which

use a bulb or a multimeter to see if one of the connectors on the modular connector for the idicator flasher shows 12 volts or will light a 12 volt bulb in a bulb holder when 1 wire is stuffed into the connector and 1 wire is earthed to the dash
if one of the connectors for the indciator falsher unit is able to light a bulb or shows 12 volts power to the idicator circuit is good.
We already know that the flasher is good becasue it worked in the hazzard circuit

your problem is with the wireing to the indictaor switch or is a problem with the indicator switch.

more proof... and an extra test if these are 2 pin flashers
short the connectors togther for the indciator flasher unit plug
i.e put wire from the one side with 12 volts to the other connector
switch indictor swith to left if the left indciators come on and stay on the wireing and switch for them is good
switch to Right
if the indicators come on and stay on the wireing and switch to them is good
your problem is fixed. put the flasher unit back and all should work

if no action its the switch at fault or its connector

take switch off column and disconect its 4 or 5 way connector
blast the connector with WD40 and or contact cleaner and get a load of it into the switch contacts as well
work the switch back and forth and then let it dry

refit and try again.

if the back don't work and the front do for both idicators and hazzards its the connector in the wire behind the divers side kick panel througha hole near the base of the A pillar (rear lights, flashers, and the emergncy brake on light in dash, and the tank sender have the potential to be on this connector 5 6 7 wires) or it maybe in the sill section near the emergency brake.

if you car is a 70s car my method above is based on a car with late 60s set up
70s cars after i think about 73 had much more complicated electrics expect a single 3 pin flasher unit covering hazzards and indciators

presume in this case 1 12 volt feed on all the time 1 12 volt feed on with igntion on and an output that outputs via either switch when the switch is on for hazzards or the indicator switch is on for left or for right

Dave

 

[CLAY72dart]

Sorry for the late response...

The brake light bulb has 2 filaments in it.

One is for the rear driving lights
The other is for the brake light.

The turn signal circuit cause one side brake light filament to light up, then the blinker causes that cir to go off then back on, off, on, off, on etc


The flasher circuit does the same thing but for both sides at the same time.


You really need to download your wiring diagram, or buy one from classiccarwiring.com

I downloaded it.

 

[CLAY72dart]

That is for the reverse lamps and neutral safety. Has nothing to do with turn signals

I chased the black wire that goes to the blinker solenoid and it went all the way to the pug at the bottom of the car.

 

[CLAY72dart]

I chased the black wire that goes to the blinker solenoid and it went all the way to the pug at the bottom of the car.

To the trans connector

 

[CLAY72dart]

AH didn't see 67darts post

wrote this last night and forgot to post it submitted this morning....

this still looked like a 1 page thread when i came back to my PC

it might be useful so i'll leave it

Hazzard flasher uses a power supply from the non switched side of the fuse box into the hazzard flasher the out to the light units via the hazzard flasher switch
switch on. power goes through flasher down wires to all 4 of the bulbs, through bulb to the body of the lamp back through body of car to battery negative and the flashers work

this means that your bulbs and your lamps have a good earth and you have no problem with the bulbs in the dash.
wireing out to the lamps at each corner of the car is also good.

Direction indication does not work..
so
given that the issue is not the bulbs or lamps and is not with the wire to the lamps it has to be with one of the following

1)power supply to the direction indciator flasher (fuse or wireing)
2) power supply from the direction indicator flasher to the indicator swith
3) a problem with the flasher unit used for indicators
4) an issue with the indicator switch
4) becasue it is affecting both directions it is unlikley to be the wire connections from the indictor switch to the lamps there are 2 and neither works. but both get power from the same place, namely the flasher unit as appropriate, when you swith to go either left or right

Hidden in the middle of the dash near the ash tray will be the flasher units. take out glove box and ash tray and spy in there with a mirror and torch
these are usually a zinc passivated yellowy round round can with a crimped in fibre base with either 2 or 3 flat spade connectors sticking out from it. They usually have a modular plastic plug so you can only fit them 1 way round on the wire loom connector.
they are often pressed into a clip section welded onto an upright support under the dash so that the click they make is amplified by the dash structure

set hazzards to on
check all lamps blink
remove a flasher unit from its connector, if the lamps stop you have found the hazzard flasher and you know it works.
swap the other flasher unit in to its place, and if the lamps start flashing again the problem with the indicators is not caused by this flasher unit becasue its working now as part of the hazzard circuit.
label hazzard and indicator flasher units as appropriate

switch off hazzards

switch on igntion
switch the idicator stalk to left or right. doesn;t matter which

use a bulb or a multimeter to see if one of the connectors on the modular connector for the idicator flasher shows 12 volts or will light a 12 volt bulb in a bulb holder when 1 wire is stuffed into the connector and 1 wire is earthed to the dash
if one of the connectors for the indciator falsher unit is able to light a bulb or shows 12 volts power to the idicator circuit is good.
We already know that the flasher is good becasue it worked in the hazzard circuit

your problem is with the wireing to the indictaor switch or is a problem with the indicator switch.

more proof... and an extra test if these are 2 pin flashers
short the connectors togther for the indciator flasher unit plug
i.e put wire from the one side with 12 volts to the other connector
switch indictor swith to left if the left indciators come on and stay on the wireing and switch for them is good
switch to Right
if the indicators come on and stay on the wireing and switch to them is good
your problem is fixed. put the flasher unit back and all should work

if no action its the switch at fault or its connector

take switch off column and disconect its 4 or 5 way connector
blast the connector with WD40 and or contact cleaner and get a load of it into the switch contacts as well
work the switch back and forth and then let it dry

refit and try again.

if the back don't work and the front do for both idicators and hazzards its the connector in the wire behind the divers side kick panel througha hole near the base of the A pillar (rear lights, flashers, and the emergncy brake on light in dash, and the tank sender have the potential to be on this connector 5 6 7 wires) or it maybe in the sill section near the emergency brake.

if you car is a 70s car my method above is based on a car with late 60s set up
70s cars after i think about 73 had much more complicated electrics expect a single 3 pin flasher unit covering hazzards and indciators

presume in this case 1 12 volt feed on all the time 1 12 volt feed on with igntion on and an output that outputs via either switch when the switch is on for hazzards or the indicator switch is on for left or for right

Dave

I found the problem and have a temporary solution until I find out where this wire goes.
The problem is the flasher unit black wire is not getting power I physically traced the wire back to the transmission plug but I will do it again to verify that is where it goes but I am certain.

 

[67Dart273]

I chased the black wire that goes to the blinker solenoid and it went all the way to the pug at the bottom of the car.

That is not true. Either you lost your way, or someone hacked that up

 

[67Dart273]

I found the problem and have a temporary solution until I find out where this wire goes.
The problem is the flasher unit black wire is not getting power I physically traced the wire back to the transmission plug but I will do it again to verify that is where it goes but I am certain.

As I said, not true, or hacked. But didn't they work? It could not magically have gotten changed that way

 

[Dana67Dart]

A bit hard to follow but...

Purple highlight is from alternator to bulb in the rear.


Path


The drivers side rear brake /turn signal filament in the bulb is fed from the dark green wire.

The dark green wire runs to the turn signal switch

From the turn signal switch, a red wire runs to the flasher

From the flasher the black wire runs to the "W" port on the bulkhead connector and is joined to the white wire.

The white wire goes to a splice / junction and joins with the red with trace.

the red with trace goes to a fuse on the fuse box

The other side of the fuse goes to the black wire going to the ignition switch.

The ignition switch is powered from the red wire that runs to the main splice

At the main splice the color changes to black.

The black wire goes to "P" on the bulkhead connector.

In the engine compartment the black wire runs to the alternator.



This is why you need a good wiring diagram

 

[67Dart273]

A bit hard to follow but...

Purple highlight is from alternator to bulb in the rear.


Path


The drivers side rear brake /turn signal filament in the bulb is fed from the dark green wire.

The dark green wire runs to the turn signal switch

From the turn signal switch, a red wire runs to the flasher

From the flasher the black wire runs to the "W" port on the bulkhead connector and is joined to the white wire.

The white wire goes to a splice / junction and joins with the red with trace.

the red with trace goes to a fuse on the fuse box

The other side of the fuse goes to the black wire going to the ignition switch.

The ignition switch is powered from the red wire that runs to the main splice

At the main splice the color changes to black.

The black wire goes to "P" on the bulkhead connector.

In the engine compartment the black wire runs to the alternator.



This is why you need a good wiring diagram
View attachment 1716080590

See post 13, page 1

 

[CLAY72dart]

This is the path that the wire takes on the diagram and on the car. If I’m wrong tell me. It’s easier to see if you click on the picture the path is highlighted in blue.

 

[CLAY72dart]

A bit hard to follow but...

Purple highlight is from alternator to bulb in the rear.


Path


The drivers side rear brake /turn signal filament in the bulb is fed from the dark green wire.

The dark green wire runs to the turn signal switch

From the turn signal switch, a red wire runs to the flasher

From the flasher the black wire runs to the "W" port on the bulkhead connector and is joined to the white wire.

The white wire goes to a splice / junction and joins with the red with trace.

the red with trace goes to a fuse on the fuse box

The other side of the fuse goes to the black wire going to the ignition switch.

The ignition switch is powered from the red wire that runs to the main splice

At the main splice the color changes to black.

The black wire goes to "P" on the bulkhead connector.

In the engine compartment the black wire runs to the alternator.



This is why you need a good wiring diagram
View attachment 1716080590

I have this downloaded so you are saying the black joins the white wire at the W which I see on the car. That is where the power comes from to supply to the flasher unit? It comes from the white wire not the wires on the other side of the firewall.

 

[CLAY72dart]

I have this downloaded so you are saying the black joins the white wire at the W which I see on the car. That is where the power comes from to supply to the flasher unit? It comes from the white wire not the wires on the other side of the firewall.

If so this makes more sense and I can trace that tomorrow.

 

[CLAY72dart]

 

[CLAY72dart]

View attachment 1716080629

View attachment 1716080628

This is why I am saying it went to the trans.

 

[CLAY72dart]

This is why I am saying it went to the trans.

Tried to get the photo to come out more clear but it won’t.

 

[CLAY72dart]

See post 13, page 1

I see now I followed the same wire too far.

 

[CLAY72dart]

A bit hard to follow but...

Purple highlight is from alternator to bulb in the rear.


Path


The drivers side rear brake /turn signal filament in the bulb is fed from the dark green wire.

The dark green wire runs to the turn signal switch

From the turn signal switch, a red wire runs to the flasher

From the flasher the black wire runs to the "W" port on the bulkhead connector and is joined to the white wire.

The white wire goes to a splice / junction and joins with the red with trace.

the red with trace goes to a fuse on the fuse box

The other side of the fuse goes to the black wire going to the ignition switch.

The ignition switch is powered from the red wire that runs to the main splice

At the main splice the color changes to black.

The black wire goes to "P" on the bulkhead connector.

In the engine compartment the black wire runs to the alternator.



This is why you need a good wiring diagram
View attachment 1716080590

This area here is the fuse box?

 

[Dana67Dart]

Tried to get the photo to come out more clear but it won’t

If you follow the words I outlined, and trace it back from the bulb to the turn signal and from the flasher unit to the turn signal switch and back to the bulkhead connector and (without going into the engine compartment ) then back to the fuse block that is the path. The path to the NSS just used the same power source. It is NOT the power source.


Keep at it.


It is much easier if you print out the two pages and tape them together.


Take the 2 pdfs to FedEx office and have each printed on 11x17 paper( print a few of each) then start tracing.

 

[Dana67Dart]

This area here is the fuse box

Yes.

The fuses are broken in to 3 sections.

Green is one section and fed by source 1
Blue is one section and fed by source 2
Magenta is one section and fed by source 3
Yellow points to a break in the fuse buss bar separating the green section source from the blue section source

red dots are just left over from a previous use of the photo

 

[67Dart273]

Well let's define exactly.

1... The top fuse is all by itself, the inst fuse. This is a trick deal, the light switch park circuit is fed off a fuse for the tail/ park/ instrument lamps. Inst power goes from the light switch, through the cluster dimmer control, AND THEN goes to that one lone fuse and then off to all dimmer controlled instrument lamps on ORANGE wires

2...The center section in the diagram is the "hot" buss meaning it never goes cold. This supplies stuff like brake light switch, horn, hazard flashers and park/ tail lamps

3...The bottom section of the diagram is fed from the ACCESSORY position of the key. So those are only how with the key in either "run" or "Acc"

You cannot read that **** posted here. You MUST go to MyMopar and download them so they are full size. THOSE ARE NOT the factory diagrams AND DO NOT fully detail connectors NOR DO THEY properly depict connectors by shape so that you can figure out what you are looking at. THE ONE goood thing about those diagrams is, they are somewhat simple to follow compared to factory

PLEASE get yourself a FACTORY service manual ---also free---from MyMopar.com--and learn a little bit about following the factory diagrams, PITA tho that they are

 

[Dave999]

Or you can bodge it
take a wire from the green section of the fuse box to the indciator flasher
and you have then bypassed the issue.

with igntion off your new wire gives no power to indciators
with igntion on it supplies 12 volts to the flasher unit but the flasher unit will only switch on when the indciator stalk is in left or right position

its a bodge , its not the way to do it, and the next owner of the car will curse you..BUT if you needed to get it done NOW it will work.

chances are this issue is caused by the creeping green virdigris, the copper/tin corrosion that impacts old bullet and spade connectors when they have been exposed to humidity and heat for nigh on 50 years

Dave

 

[67Dart273]

I disagreed because I think the OP is on the wrong track. He somehow chased some of the wiring down to the NSS connector, if I understood, and that is wrong. "Fix what is there." The problem might be right at right in the fuse panel. the fuse clips themselves.

This circuit is not that complicated, and not that long in the area of trouble. The power comes from the ACC terminal on the key to the ACC buss in the fuse panel. A fuse feeds the flasher, and the flasher feeds the connector on the TS switch, and from there, out to all 4 corners. All of that can be accessed "right there" under the panel. Even some years ago, I would yank the seat out for better access.

 

[Dana67Dart]

You cannot read that **** posted here. You MUST go to MyMopar and download them so they are full size

See posts 25, 28,37

Op has downloaded the wiring diagram.
As for FSM don't know.

 

[Dave999]

I disagreed because I think the OP is on the wrong track. He somehow chased some of the wiring down to the NSS connector, if I understood, and that is wrong. "Fix what is there." The problem might be right at right in the fuse panel. the fuse clips themselves.

This circuit is not that complicated, and not that long in the area of trouble. The power comes from the ACC terminal on the key to the ACC buss in the fuse panel. A fuse feeds the flasher, and the flasher feeds the connector on the TS switch, and from there, out to all 4 corners. All of that can be accessed "right there" under the panel. Even some years ago, I would yank the seat out for better access.

I agree with your disagree..he should do it right and do it once....