Old out. New in and using amd floor on 72 swinger . Fits ok on back and sides.. except the Front flange where it meets the lower firewall. Half inch gap at some spots. Woof!!! Do i just cut the entire front flange off and channel it? Or beat it into submission.. What have others done?
72 dart full floor help
- Thread starter Boduke
- Start date
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Looks normal. Is it flush on the ends near the rocker panel ends?
I would use about 20 2" clamps (harbor freight) and pull it in place. The lower part of the firewall has a lot of flex and should pull in.
I would use about 20 2" clamps (harbor freight) and pull it in place. The lower part of the firewall has a lot of flex and should pull in.
Is it possible that the car sagged a bit when you removed the old floor pan? I don't see any bracing on the car to prevent any flexing. That is a lot of structural metal to remove without bracing it up first. Try raising the front of the car off the ground, as evenly & as carefully as possible, & place jack stands under the front frame rails, that way the front end might flex enough the other way, so the gap is tighter when you weld it in. Just an idea. Some cars were pretty poorly assembled though from the factory too.
Is the floor clamped in place? Or just sitting there?
If it's just sitting there you need to clamp it into place along that front edge, it will tighten up that gap. An assortment of clamps like these are a necessity if you're going to be replacing a bunch of panels like that
Alternatively you can use some sheet metal screws to help locate things as you tack weld stuff together, and just weld up the holes from the screws when you have enough spot welds laid down to hold the new panels in position. For a full floor like that I would clamp everywhere there was a flange I could clamp (like along that front edge) and then use a bunch of sheet metal screws in various spots that overlap but don't have a place you can clamp, like where the floor sits on the frame rails and crossmembers. That puts the floor tight against the rails and crossmembers. Generally I use a sheet metal screw every 2-3 factory spot welds, so I put down 1-2 spot welds between each sheet metal screw and then pull the screws and weld the holes.
Also, the factory just filled a lot of the gaps in the seams with seam sealer. Not all the gaps were perfectly tight and butted up from the factory. As long as it overlapped enough to weld it got welded and filled.
If it's just sitting there you need to clamp it into place along that front edge, it will tighten up that gap. An assortment of clamps like these are a necessity if you're going to be replacing a bunch of panels like that
Alternatively you can use some sheet metal screws to help locate things as you tack weld stuff together, and just weld up the holes from the screws when you have enough spot welds laid down to hold the new panels in position. For a full floor like that I would clamp everywhere there was a flange I could clamp (like along that front edge) and then use a bunch of sheet metal screws in various spots that overlap but don't have a place you can clamp, like where the floor sits on the frame rails and crossmembers. That puts the floor tight against the rails and crossmembers. Generally I use a sheet metal screw every 2-3 factory spot welds, so I put down 1-2 spot welds between each sheet metal screw and then pull the screws and weld the holes.
Also, the factory just filled a lot of the gaps in the seams with seam sealer. Not all the gaps were perfectly tight and butted up from the factory. As long as it overlapped enough to weld it got welded and filled.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Use a bunch of clamps like shown in post #5 to close that gap up before you clamp or screw it anywhere else. Get those welds finished first and make sure it's overlapped everywhere else and then plug weld it from front to back so the heat of the welds will be pushing it in one direction.
Thanks for all the advise. As it sits now it is not clamped. So I will buy a bunch of those clamps at HF and clamp it tight and report back. This is a huge relief that i dont have to fab up and weld in a new front flange
Totally!! What seam sealer u use.
When I did my challenger the gap was there as well. I picked the back end up and spot welded the Center hump. Then laid it back down and finished the rest. Nothing in these cars is exactly consistent from one to the next.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
That’s an emergency brake cable bracket. I’m 314 miles from home and can’t help with a pic. It goes on the passenger side somewhere.
Yep, parking brake cable bracket. I may have a 71 floor I can get a pic of.
I checked my 73 and it doesnt use a bracket. The cable setup changed around this time. I thought I had aa 71 floor here but I do not. My 71 swinger is in storage at another locations.
Did your original pan have a bracket? Its possible that your car didnt use one. Im not sure when they changed to the new parking brake setup.
Did your original pan have a bracket? Its possible that your car didnt use one. Im not sure when they changed to the new parking brake setup.
im thinking your correct. My original pan was street signs when i got it. But i dont think i need the bracket. My engine, trans, rear-end and K-member are all 73. And i think e brake setup is as well.
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Floor…In! Thanks for all the tips. Clamping at the front was the hot ticket. Also. I had to jack up the crossmember in the middle to bring it up to meet the pan in the tunnel area. Could've been sag over years of driving with no floors. Doors still open and close real nice.
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