72 Dart Torsion bar replacements??

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RustyRatRod said:
Thanks. As usual, I am probably making a mountain out of a molehill.
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I get it, more than a few members here insist going over 1" diameter on torsion bars will make your Mopar feel like a dump truck even though they've never tried it. Or they were running rough-riding shocks like KYB Gas-a-justs and blamed it on the springs.
 
MopaR&D said:
I get it, more than a few members here insist going over 1" diameter on torsion bars will make your Mopar feel like a dump truck even though they've never tried it. Or they were running rough-riding shocks like KYB Gas-a-justs and blamed it on the springs.
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Cheap shocks are about all I can afford. lol I'll probably end up with Monroes or Gabriels.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Cheap shocks are about all I can afford. lol I'll probably end up with Monroes or Gabriels.
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I ran my Duster with 1.00" torsion bars and a set of funky blue Monroe's for awhile. Still way too soft! Went to 1.12's after that with Bilsteins and then Hotchkis Fox's. With really large torsion bars the shocks become exponentially more important. I'm going 1.14's next.

I don't think you'll have any issues with the 1.03's. And I'd run Monroe's before I ran KYB's. Better shocks would be better, but with a 1.03" you could probably get away with Monroe's. You'll probably be a little underdamped but it shouldn't be terrible, not as bad as being over damped.
 
72bluNblu said:
I ran my Duster with 1.00" torsion bars and a set of funky blue Monroe's for awhile. Still way too soft! Went to 1.12's after that with Bilsteins and then Hotchkis Fox's. With really large torsion bars the shocks become exponentially more important. I'm going 1.14's next.

I don't think you'll have any issues with the 1.03's. And I'd run Monroe's before I ran KYB's. Better shocks would be better, but with a 1.03" you could probably get away with Monroe's. You'll probably be a little underdamped but it shouldn't be terrible, not as bad as being over damped.
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Imma take your word for it. Don't make me come out there. LOL
 
72bluNblu said:
I ran my Duster with 1.00" torsion bars and a set of funky blue Monroe's for awhile. Still way too soft! Went to 1.12's after that with Bilsteins and then Hotchkis Fox's. With really large torsion bars the shocks become exponentially more important. I'm going 1.14's next.

I don't think you'll have any issues with the 1.03's. And I'd run Monroe's before I ran KYB's. Better shocks would be better, but with a 1.03" you could probably get away with Monroe's. You'll probably be a little underdamped but it shouldn't be terrible, not as bad as being over damped.
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Having said all that......what shocks would you recommend that won't slap break the bank? All I'm seeing is the gas adjust crap and then next up they get really expensive. Is there nothing in between?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Having said all that......what shocks would you recommend that won't slap break the bank? All I'm seeing is the gas adjust crap and then next up they get really expensive. Is there nothing in between?
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there really isn't any midpoint that's a direct bolt in or has some level of compromise.

the QA1 stocker stars aren't too bad at 150ish, and the same for the hotchkiss sports; but neither is adjustable. and that's bilstein money there.

at this point the top line monroe or gabriel are probably on par with the kyb's.

at .990's in my 64 & 65 dart the KYB's were ragged edge, a quick blast over the rise for some railroad tracks would make it porpoise fairly good

so you run big bars and you cough up 5~6 to keep them in check.
 
Yeah there really isn’t a ton in the middle. At least nothing that I have experience with. Honestly the Bilstein RCD’s are at the lower end of that spectrum, the Hotchkis foxes are even more expensive. Guys have run Vikings too, but they’re really no better for price.
 
It is a bummer there aren't better "mid-range" choices for shocks. I spent some time searching and found some Sachs stock replacement shocks which are on my Duster now, I want to say I got them from CarID.com but can't remember for sure. Woefully underdamped with my 1.14" bars but every set of Monroes or Gabriels I've run had at least one blow out and become useless after a few months. Next on my list are adjustable Fox/Ridetech shocks which are at the top of the range, now at $1000 for a full set, oof... I do need to do brakes first though, I found out from experience the factory '73-up 10.9" front discs and 10" rear drums I'm running have a hard time slowing the car down in quick fashion from 90+ MPH at the track lol. Will likely go with rear disc conversion and bigger Mustang Cobra front discs from Doctor Diff.

Nice thing about torsion bars is they aren't super bouncy with soft shocks like coil-sprung cars but doing quick sharp turns back-and-forth like in a slalom unsettles the car pretty badly.
 
Okay, I have my bars ordered. Since I'm a cheapo, is there a way to install these and adjust them to the correct height without spending another $100+ at an alignment shop?
I'm sure its some thing like, install, bounce the car, check adjustment, drive for so many miles and adjust again?
I appreciate the help!
 
swingingdart said:
Okay, I have my bars ordered. Since I'm a cheapo, is there a way to install these and adjust them to the correct height without spending another $100+ at an alignment shop?
I'm sure its some thing like, install, bounce the car, check adjustment, drive for so many miles and adjust again?
I appreciate the help!
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In theory if your current ride height is where you wanted it and you knew your current alignment was good you could just measure from the ground to a spot on the k-frame or fender and adjust to that point with the new bars. When was the last time it was aligned, and what kind of specs did you go for?
 
MopaR&D said:
In theory if your current ride height is where you wanted it and you knew your current alignment was good you could just measure from the ground to a spot on the k-frame or fender and adjust to that point with the new bars. When was the last time it was aligned, and what kind of specs did you go for?
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Exactly! If you maintain the current ride height the alignment should be the same.

But, what’s your current alignment? And if your suspension has never been rebuilt, this is the best time to replace anything else that needs to be replaced. If the torsion bars are old and saggy, everything else may be too.
 
72bluNblu said:
Exactly! If you maintain the current ride height the alignment should be the same.

But, what’s your current alignment? And if your suspension has never been rebuilt, this is the best time to replace anything else that needs to be replaced. If the torsion bars are old and saggy, everything else may be too.
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I put all new energy suspension bushings and stuff in it when I had it apart, so everything should be good there (I hope) lol
Alignment? great question. I had an old school guy do it on his alignment machine years ago (but less than 200 miles ago) he was mad because the whole thing was out of whack from having it apart and putting it back together. He just went with what his books had for standard alignment.
Whats your guy's thought on standard alignment?
 
swingingdart said:
I put all new energy suspension bushings and stuff in it when I had it apart, so everything should be good there (I hope) lol
Alignment? great question. I had an old school guy do it on his alignment machine years ago (but less than 200 miles ago) he was mad because the whole thing was out of whack from having it apart and putting it back together. He just went with what his books had for standard alignment.
Whats your guy's thought on standard alignment?
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If by standard he meant early 1970s specs with bias-ply tires, it sucks lol. Search for the "Skosh Chart" on here and that will get you in the right direction. Basically you want as much caster as your upper arms can provide (usually max around 3-4 degrees) and a small amount of negative camber, about 1/4-1/2 a degree with little to no toe. Your car will track straight much better and have better steering feel especially on-center.
 
swingingdart said:
I put all new energy suspension bushings and stuff in it when I had it apart, so everything should be good there (I hope) lol
Alignment? great question. I had an old school guy do it on his alignment machine years ago (but less than 200 miles ago) he was mad because the whole thing was out of whack from having it apart and putting it back together. He just went with what his books had for standard alignment.
Whats your guy's thought on standard alignment?
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Standard alignment is terrible for radials. This is what you need as a starting place…

481F0B92-4CA9-48DB-8F9F-0C9BD4E72E9E.jpeg
 
swingingdart said:
Well this is some darn good info to keep on hand! Thanks!!
I need to take the dart back and have it aligned again!
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It'll be a very noticeable improvement when you get some decent caster in the front end. It'll be rock-solid at freeway speeds whereas stock bias-ply settings make it feel like it wants to go any way but straight lol.
 
Okay!
Got the bars in the car, wow those boots are a bear even after boiling them!
Looked at the old bars, one is 893 and the other 892. I saw 893 on the chart, but not an 892? Seemed weird, a mystery bar.
Car sits much better, I'm ready for the test drive in a few days!
 
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