72 swinger: wierdest brake issue

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skelengerj

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Hey guys, starting my own thread on this one as it is kicking my butt!

I have a 72 Swinger 318, factory discs and A/C. When I bought the car the brakes were "iffy" so I replaced pads, wheel cylinder, shoes, and springs; Drums and rotors are good. I tried to bleed the system and couldnt get any fluid to the rear, so I bought a new combo valve from classic industries (P/N MD2268), and all new lines (rubber and steel). So now I got fluid to the rears but brakes are still no good (and light wont go out unless I unplug it), tried a couple of booster/mc combos I had lying around with no change in symptoms. I finally gave in and took it to a shop who sold me a new booster/mc combo and let me leave with the brakes still operating poorly (I found out later they unplugged the light (dont want to rant about that, just looking for a solution). I got another combo valve out of a van in a junkyard and put it on and got much improvement but it started to leak. So I bought another valve from Classic Ind. (thinking the first one must have been defective). Now I am back to brakes are very poor and light is always on. Got any ideas? On my dirt driveway I can barely lock up the fronts and no lock possible on the rears.:banghead:
 
It sounds like there is a leak or air in the system causing the valve to switch. Did the shop pull vacuum to bleed the system? How much pressure do you have on the peddle? Does it go to the floor before you feel a drag on the brakes? Also just in case, which way are the bleeder valves on your front calipers pointing, up or down?
 
Ok i am having this same issue on my 65 dart. What do you mean by up or down? Where do the need to point?? thanks
 
Up if they are down it will be hard to get the air out without pulling a vacuum
Or turnig the car upside down:D
 
With the car sittin on level ground, is the master cylinder at an angle? They usually are. If it is, air aill get trapped at the very front of the master cylinder and you will never get it out. The master cylinder should be level when you are bleeding the system.

x2 on the bleeder screws. The calipers can be installed on the wrong sides. If this has been done, then bleeder screws are pointing down. If that's the case, the air will get trapped in the top of the calipers and you'll never get it out.
 
OP here, sorry for the delay (putting a motor in my other car also). My front bleeders are pointing up. I have bled this thing from the master, then the combo valve, then at the wheels. I am using a power bleeder (clamps to master cylinder and has air pressure to force the fluid). Still cant seem to get this thing to equalize enough for the switch to turn the light off, and brakes are horrible. They dont go all the way to the floor, but they do go low.
 
skelengerj said:
OP here, sorry for the delay (putting a motor in my other car also). My front bleeders are pointing up. I have bled this thing from the master, then the combo valve, then at the wheels. I am using a power bleeder (clamps to master cylinder and has air pressure to force the fluid). Still cant seem to get this thing to equalize enough for the switch to turn the light off, and brakes are horrible. They dont go all the way to the floor, but they do go low.
Click to expand...

That proceedure is backward. Bleeding is done from the farest point ( right rear ) to the master cylinder. Actually, the more places you open the system, the air is possible. You shouldn't need to open anything except the 4 bleeders.

I would like to see for myself how your calipers are positioned. If you could post a pic of both sides, just to satisfy my curiosity...
 
OK just for kicks, I put the old proportioning valve back on an viola! Brakes are much better. This is the second new unit from classic industries that I cant seem to get working with my car.
Everything on the car is factory original disc brake setup (although I have replaced all the lines, MC, booster, etc.).
Is there another source for combo valves? 72 dart factory discs/AC, rear drums.
 
Sorry if i jacked this post but i solved my problem. I heated and bent my pedal as the limiting factor for full stroke was the floor board. after i did that and bled the brakes agian i now i have good brakes. I also eliminated the proportioning valve (combo valve) and have them direct to M/C so if i hit brakes hard rears lock up. I will be putting on a valve i picked at autozone just for the rear it looks like a cylinder. They had them in stock. I hope this info helps others as i was on my fifth master booster combo and ready to put car away for rest of summer!!! I am now back to the original one i purchased as the chrome i bought off ebay came with a bad master!!?? OH well so much for chrome!! Skelengerj i got my combo valve from summit but it may be the same. I see them on ebay cheaper then i paid as well
 
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