727 Drum

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Mopar Sam

Mopar Sam

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Has anyone used one of these drums in their 727? Looks like a good candidate for a dual purpose car or truck.

hutchtrans.com

TCS 727 Torqueflite Full Metal Jacket Steel Sleeved Drum K123900AS - Hutch's Transmission Services

Steel Sleeved Aluminum Drum is Here!! Ideal for both the Street and Strip. Only 5.5 lbs - 2 lbs lighter than the O.E.M. Drum. The Kit includes the following; One billet aluminum Drum with Steel Sleeve and, replaceable brass bushing. One New billet aluminum Clutch Piston. One TCS steel Pressure...
hutchtrans.com hutchtrans.com
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I didn't even know it existed, that's pretty cool.
Clean transmission fluid and pretty lightweight.
Click to expand...

I was scrolling looking for more affordable billet drums, and found it. I think it would be good for my usage. I'll have to save a while to get one.
 
On our street/strip 10 sec. two Valiant we run
the stock drum. They are pricey for a Non NHRA
Stock/SS car for a few hundreds of ET. That money
in an engine or converter will buy me more ET reduction.

We change the oil and filter in our race cars every 20 to 25 runs
and there is always some aluminum in the pan and filter. No big deal
on our race cars but I would be nervous on a daily driver that racks up
more miles.


Just my .02 = For Free!
 
GTX JOHN said:
On our street/strip 10 sec. two Valiant we run
the stock drum. They are pricey for a Non NHRA
Stock/SS car for a few hundreds of ET. That money
in an engine or converter will buy me more ET reduction.

We change the oil and filter in our race cars every 20 to 25 runs
and there is always some aluminum in the pan and filter. No big deal
on our race cars but I would be nervous on a daily driver that racks up
more miles.


Just my .02 = For Free!
Click to expand...
John, which drum do you run on your trans brake equipped cars.
 
GTX JOHN said:
On my bracket cars and my Street Outlaw car
we run a stock drum. I do go thru and check the
transmissions ever 100 runs or so.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I'm assuming that your 727 is equipped with a bolt in sprag(?).
 
GTX JOHN said:
On our street/strip 10 sec. two Valiant we run
the stock drum. They are pricey for a Non NHRA
Stock/SS car for a few hundreds of ET. That money
in an engine or converter will buy me more ET reduction.

We change the oil and filter in our race cars every 20 to 25 runs
and there is always some aluminum in the pan and filter. No big deal
on our race cars but I would be nervous on a daily driver that racks up
more miles.


Just my .02 = For Free!
Click to expand...


Thanks.

I really wanted to build a 904, but I got a great deal on an 8" PTC 727 converter that was never run.

My 727 when I took it apart had 3 clutch drums. I took apart a big block 727 that had 4 clutch drums, but the front drum had pretty bad rust pitting. So, I put mine back with the 3 clutch drums. Now I am just starting to get some flare on the 2-3 shift.

So, I started rainy day dreaming of a billet front drum, and came across the the steel jacket one.

If, I could find a good core 727 cheap, I would probably just build it. Maybe sell my VB, and put the money towards a LBA.
 
Only took a ring gear breaking on launch to start the chain of mayhem….. early 90s and we had NO idea this was even a thing. Low 10 street/strip car that had a 300 kit on it that he never even got to use. Needless to say our 727s always had a good drum in them after that.

IMG_2321.jpeg
 
My present drum besides being 3 disk, is also the narrow bushing style. I have a wide bushing pump and shaft etc. I just need the front drum to make the upgrade.

I have a couple 904s also, but that would take more $$ unless I find another killer deal on a converter. I'd also need a drive shaft .

So, I was hoping for the good the bad and the ugly on the steel jacket drums.
 
Desoto291hemi said:
Do you really need the high dollar drum ?

You could upgrade to a good 4 clutch or 5 clutch drum for not much money

I hope you get it figured out

Tommy
Click to expand...

Maybe not. I do like the weight reduction, and safety factor.

I have been trying to find out if a 46RE drum would work in the 727. Are they 4 clutch?

I have a 46RE from a junked 03 Ram.

Would it's drum be compatible with a wide bushing pump and input shaft from a 727?
 
That is where the benefit is: the weight reduction. And reducing the weight towards the outer edge where all the weight is...is going to make the biggest difference.
 
A body said:
Only took a ring gear breaking on launch to start the chain of mayhem….. early 90s and we had NO idea this was even a thing. Low 10 street/strip car that had a 300 kit on it that he never even got to use. Needless to say our 727s always had a good drum in them after that.

View attachment 1716480211
Click to expand...
Holy ****.
I'm glad I went with a bolt in sprag and billet steel drum.
 

I have that in my duster race car. Behind a 470 stroker. 655 hp and 625 tq. Runs 10.37. Needs more converter. I put that in cause an aluminum drums wears way to fast for my liking. Always adjusting the band and cleaning out the aluminum. Full aluminum drums are garbage. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
I have that in my duster race car. Behind a 470 stroker. 655 hp and 625 tq. Runs 10.37. Needs more converter. I put that in cause an aluminum drums wears way to fast for my liking. Always adjusting the band and cleaning out the aluminum. Full aluminum drums are garbage. Kim
Click to expand...

Thanks! That is good to know. I figured someone on here would be using one.
 
oldkimmer said:
I have that in my duster race car. Behind a 470 stroker. 655 hp and 625 tq. Runs 10.37. Needs more converter. I put that in cause an aluminum drums wears way to fast for my liking. Always adjusting the band and cleaning out the aluminum. Full aluminum drums are garbage. Kim
Click to expand...
Agree.

I have around $4000 in just All Aluminum Drums/Straight Cut Gear/
HD/ Light Weight parts in each of my 8 Stock and SS Race
Cars.

BUT: We have to have all this stuff to be competitive. The cost
of running Stock and SS is absolutely BRUTAL on everything front
to back.
 
GTX JOHN said:
Agree.

I have around $4000 in just All Aluminum Drums/Straight Cut Gear/
HD/ Light Weight parts in each of my 8 Stock and SS Race
Cars.

BUT: We have to have all this stuff to be competitive. The cost
of running Stock and SS is absolutely BRUTAL on everything front
to back.
Click to expand...
Kind of like the country club of drag racing ..
 
I also have two cars in my crew with all aluminum transmissions. 727s not 904s and not pro flites. Definitely can tell during fluid changes that the transmissions have all aluminum drums. When I take the valve body apart during overhaul, there’s a big difference between an all aluminum transmission and a transmission that does not have the aluminum components. However, these all aluminum units have been going strong for a long time. We don’t change fluid and filters as often as we used to and it hasn’t made a darn bit of difference. I don’t recommend the aluminum drums to people who aren’t looking for every bit of ET. Just my opinion.
 
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