727 one bad clutch plate. Input to output washer half gone

-
AJ/FormS said:
VB gaskets for starters
and I think the L/R band is different
oh yeah and some of the lip seals and cast-rings.
thinking as I'm typing.lol. It's been a long time.
Click to expand...
Thanks,
Jegs has just the 71 and up kits.
The clutches and front band should be good I think.
Gaskets should be the same.
It doesn't come with the low reverse band, have to get that separately.
Transparts warehouse has the metal thrust washer I need. Maybe I'll just order everything from them.
The transmission I have is a 1970.
I have another that is a 1969 that I have not gone through.
I know the 1970 and prior uses a flat c clip to hold the clutch pack and the 71 and up uses a wave c clip. Not sure what size is different.
I just want to get this thing back together without any stupid problems.
I sent the torque converter out to be refreshed and checked for any problems. Sould be back in a week or so after I talk to them Monday.
Last time I drove this car on the road was 2011.
Last time at the track 14 years ago.
I really don't want to spend $1200- $2000 on a built transmission.
It figures that fuel prices are going through the roof.
I want to finally get this to the track again, what the car was built for, and not a garage ornament
 
I don't use kits that come with clutches. I buy oem for forward and red eagle thins for direct; adding one. I hardly ever replace the low reverse band, but the front always gets a Kevlar. REs are about $7.50 each and the kevlar band is same as stock. Gonna need thicker thrust washers. Better check the front drum for ring wear.
 
Hers a problem.
The bottom steel is not flat.
20220311_185026.jpg
20220311_185321.jpg
 
AJ/FormS said:
OK/wait!....
was the broken thrust washer still captive on the pin of the output shaft? and
Did you check the end-play of the input shaft before tear-down?
Cuz I'm getting an idea.
If the washer was out of place,
this would allow the input to move backwards,
which could have allowed the first clutch in, to drop off the splines, (thus no longer indexed). And so then going into Third gear, the clutches would no longer be flat, but with the dropped clutch forcing a twisted engagement, the discs would be now driving on the outer edges. In that state, it wouldn't take much power to make them slip, and burn up/cast off the friction material or just run out of clamping..
With most of the fiber clutch material now gone, the piston would go out as far as it could, but the out of place disc would stop it from clamping
Meanwhile, with the washer out of place, the input moved to the back and the planetary was cut.
I think we got it!
My TFs have all had a tinned-copper over metal Thrust-washer; now I know why. I highly recommend, lol, to not put a fiber washer back in there.
Click to expand...
Did you see the picture of the Not Flat steel plate?
I'm thinking you were right that it dropped the first clutch off .
But I would expect the splines on the inside edge of the friction to show damage.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Us tranny folks refer to those "not flat" steels as "heat warped"..
Click to expand...
So it got real hot.
Another thing I found

That clutch pack has a very flat wavy retainer clip, and not a flat selectable one.
The trans date is July of 1970.
Unless someone shaped it before me, that is not right for the year
 
If you run much stall, go ahead and put in a flat retainer. The waved one is to alleviate a harsh reverse engagement.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top