73+ Drum to Disc Options

-

73dart_swinger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
76
Reaction score
0
Are there any 73 and up drum to disc conversions that retain the large ball joint, 10” drum spindle?
 
Yes indeed. The spindle used on the 73 and up drum cars was actually the B and E body drum spindle. I have both and put them next to each other.
Leed as well as SSBC both have a kit that uses the Kelsey Hayes caliper and a mustang rotor. SSBC sells their kit with dual drilled rotors for small and big bolt pattern.
 
SSBC only shows kits for 72 and older models with 10” drums, not 73 and up. Unless I’m missing something.
 
Yes
I apologize. I wasn’t more specific. B body from 65 to 72 and all E body drum is the same spindle as 73 to 76 A body drum.
 
If my B body info is wrong I know someone will quickly correct me. But to find a kit like you need search for one for a 68 or 69 charger.
 
Are there any 73 and up drum to disc conversions that retain the large ball joint, 10” drum spindle?

Do you just want to retain the drum spindle to save money or is there a different reason?


If my B body info is wrong I know someone will quickly correct me. But to find a kit like you need search for one for a 68 or 69 charger.

I believe the B-body 10” drum spindles still use a smaller wheel bearing up to ‘72 than the 73+ A-body 10” drum spindles. They did use the large ball joint and there are disk conversions for them, but I don’t think those kits would work with 73+ drum spindles.
 
Last edited:
Uh oh. I apologize.
I should have measured the spindles more closely. The spindle diameter is different. They are otherwise the same casting. Inner bearing for b body is an A6 while later A body is an A17. The difference can’t be seen it has to be measured.(.040 in) Lower balljoint is the same.
So now you’re back to options that involve swapping spindles.
Best option are the kits that include new spindles. They are showing up on eBay for half the price of the Leed kit and they are all new parts.
 
Do you just want to retain the drum spindle to save money or is there a different reason?




I believe the B-body 10” drum spindles still use a smaller wheel bearing up to ‘72 than the 73+ A-body 10” drum spindles. They did use the large ball joint and there are disk conversions for them, but I don’t think those kits would work with 73+ drum spindles.
I was just looking for an option that would bolt on for simplicity sake.
 
I converted my 1972 Duster with 10” drum brakes to 1973+ 11” disc brake’s including the 73+ disc spindles and upper A arms. It was entirely bolt on, just have to add in front end alignment, but my lower A arm bushings were toasted anyway so I would have had to do that anyway. I basically duplicated the entire 1973 A body 11” power disc brakes with drum rear brakes and proportioning valve and got an excellent result. Most other kits have adjustable proportioning valve which will require testing and tweaking. Nothing wrong with aftermarket setups but with factory correct setup you can buy all the brake parts at Rock Auto or local parts store. If I had to do it again I would grab aftermarket upper A arms to get more positive caster into the front end (running +2” leafs out back), but those aren’t exactly bolt on and go. My handling is fine otherwise so go OE and get OE 1973+ brake spindles and if you have a 1973 up car you should be ok on the upper A arm already so would not be changing your front alignment much. In the end for a street driven car I think that’s the best setup. Also if going to power brakes upgrade torsion bars, 1.03” PST bars in my Duster was best decision I made.
 
I was just looking for an option that would bolt on for simplicity sake.

Honestly, for the sake of long term simplicity I would just go to DoctorDiff and buy a 73+ disk brake kit, either 10.95” or 11.75”. Because then all of your parts are off the shelf, OE Mopar parts. Instead of finding an aftermarket kit that uses custom parts or a mixture of parts from other manufacturers/brands/models.

You already have the large ball joint upper control arms, so, you just need the spindle and out and you can get all of that from DoctorDiff.
 
Honestly, for the sake of long term simplicity I would just go to DoctorDiff and buy a 73+ disk brake kit, either 10.95” or 11.75”. Because then all of your parts are off the shelf, OE Mopar parts. Instead of finding an aftermarket kit that uses custom parts or a mixture of parts from other manufacturers/brands/models.

You already have the large ball joint upper control arms, so, you just need the spindle and out and you can get all of that from DoctorDiff.
Dr. diff had a version of his cobra kit that used the A body drum spindle, but discontinued it due to lack of interest. I'm in the same boat, just picked up a set of used 73-up spindles, caliper brackets and proportioning valve. everything else is new from rockauto, and was only about $200 for rotors/pads/calipers/hardware/bearings/seals/hoses.
 
good luck finding the calipers, though....
Already have them. They were easy to find. Viper owners were upgrading their calipers and other vehicle used them also. Just not sure I want to start a new project as I have 3 Barracudas now in various stages of completion. Brakes are everything from Kelsey-Hayes to pin type 11 3/4 in 76 rotors.
 
Last edited:
Already have them. They were easy to find. Viper owners were upgrading their calipers and other vehicle used them also. Just not sure I want to start a new project as I have 3 Barracudas now in various stages of completion. Brakes are everything from Kelsey-Hayes to pin type 11 3/4 in 76 rotors.
that's good....when I was exploring options a few months ago, I couldn't find the first gen viper calipers anywhere. could find newer ones....
 
-
Back
Top