73 Duster cranks but doesn't fire

[Byron Gray]

I got the car running last month after sitting for 3 years I had the engine out. But from its first start till 3 weeks ago it fired up and ran fine. Now all it dose is crank and wont fire with the key I hook up my remote starter and the car starts fine I just replaced the ignition switch and it did not fix it hooked up the remote starter it started no problem.

Ignition system is an MSD 6A with MSD distributor and coil. Already on the car when I bought it. Any ideas of know problems on what it could be?

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Sounds like the ignition circuit isn't wired to the start post on the key switch. The factory had the starting circuit of the key switch wired in on the low voltage/coil side of the ballast resistor to give the coil full battery voltage during cranking.

 

[Byron Gray]

Sounds like the ignition circuit isn't wired to the start post on the key switch. The factory had the starting circuit of the key switch wired in on the low voltage/coil side of the ballast resistor to give the coil full battery voltage during cranking.

Sounds like the ignition circuit isn't wired to the start post on the key switch. The factory had the starting circuit of the key switch wired in on the low voltage/coil side of the ballast resistor to give the coil full battery voltage during cranking.

It used to start with out issue I would hop in 3 pumps of the gas and it fire right up. I will have to check that out because I do not know how the previous owners wired things. I replaced the ballast resistor and see if I notice anything out of place. thank you.

 

[edwinator13]

Byron, did you get the remote start working? I'm trying to get a remote start installed on a 74 Duster with original slant six auto transmission. Can't get it to start remotely. It still starts manually. What color ignition wires did you tied the remote starter to? Can you share a picture? Thanks

 

[67Dart273]

Most common problem is the bypass (brown wire) circuit from the key to the igntiion is open. Look where your resistor was bypassed. There is one wire goes from the key (tradtional brown) goes through the bulkhead "and originally" hooked to the coil+ side of the ballast. That wire must be tied to the "run" wire so you get voltage during cranking to the MSD

Could also be corroded terminal in the bulkhead connector

 

[Byron Gray]

What turned out to be the issue was the previous owners left the factory ignition system still wired in. So I replaced the stock ignition box and a new voltage regulator and the car starts fine now. A later project will be to get that all removed.