73 duster wont crank

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Snappy

1 Corinthians 9:24 "WIN"
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Ellijay, Georgia
I have a 73 Duster, wont crank but fires up when I jump starter relay. I found a bad fuseable link at outside firewall connector from amp gauge to starter relay. I then did the MAD amp gauge bypass, and also replaced the wires from alt to voltage regulator, because battery would die somestimes and when I would check voltage at battery I would get over 15 volts at high idle. I am running MSD and not using the factory module or ballast resistor. Harness was butchered by previous owner and I'm trying to get things in order. Any help would be appreciated:banghead:

Think I got the charging part, when I ran new wires to voltage regulator, I didn't add a leg for switched 12 volts.
 
Sounds like you have multi problems

multipass.gif


I know I would

First -- you have a stick or automatic?

If a stick, you have a clutch safety switch, or no?

You have a 3 or 4 terminal start relay?

4 terminal:

mopar-53-54-55-56-57-58-59-imperial-starter-relay-new_170579962271.jpg


On older stick cars, one of the "push on" terminals is permanently soldered to the case, and the relay must be grounded

On auto/ stick cars, with 4 terminals, either of the two push on terminals hooks to the yellow "start" wire coming out of the bulkhead. This comes directly from the IGN switch, and is HOT in "start."

The remaining terminal must see a ground through the neutral safety switch (auto) or the clutch safety switch (stick)

To test, identify the yellow (NOTE shown as "dark green/red" for 73) wire and pull off the OTHER push on wire. Clip the wire to ground and try the key. IF it cranks, you have a problem in the clutch switch/ neutral safety switch

IF it still does not crank, get your meter / test lamp and verify you have power on the yellow when the key is twisted to start

IF you do, you have a bad relay

IF you do not, you have a bad connection through the bulkhead, or at the IGN switch, or a bad switch.

You can check back at the switch by removing the small trim under the column, find the IGN switch connector, and probe the "start" wire there

Usable wiring diagrams:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ValiantB.jpg
 
How are you jumpering at the starter relay?

The safest way to do it is to disconnect the spade terminal (yellow wire, Packard 57 1-pole) and apply 12 V to it. The closest place to get +12V is the big stud on the starter relay, which is direct from battery on all I have worked on. This method actuates the relay the same way the starter switch does, i.e. how criminals "hot wire" under the dash. It is safest because the circuit still involves the "neutral safety switch" (NSS) in the transmission. If this works, it indicates your key switch is bad or not getting power. If it doesn't work, either the tranny is not in P or N, the NSS may be bad, or the relay may be bad. You can ground the NSS terminal to bypass it, but insure you are in P first.

The other way to jump is to connect from +12 V (big stud) to the starter coil wire (small screw ~8 awg brown wire I recall). Make sure the transmission is in neutral or the car may jump forward and pin you to the wall. If that doesn't work, your starter may be bad. If you hear the starter coil click, but nothing, its contacts may be pitted, or your battery may just be low.
 
It is an automatic, I jump battery stud to solonoid screw and it starts. The solonoid is the 4 terminal type. I will try these tests and let you know. Thanks for the info. BTW, I dig the fifth element pic.
 
Ok I'm lost, car starts now after doing tests and everything testing good, must have been loose connection because I didn't do anything else. So I check the charging and nothing. I then replaced the switched 12 volt on field wire nothing, replaced wire because insulation was cracked. Replaced voltage regulator and starter relay. Now charging.......except over 16 volts at high idle. No what do I do???????@??? Help please:banghead:
 
67Dart273 is the man to listen to. it sounds like the VR has crapped out on you, but hang tight someone with more experience will help you out
 
Car should be a Demon, cause its possessed. Charging fine and stops at about 13.7 volt. I added a ground from voltage regulator to brake booster. Thanks everyone. On to next gremlin
 
lol well at least you are getting somewhere. youll get it, just take your time. GROUNDS are everything . i have grounds where you wouldnt believe lol
 
Car should be a Demon, cause its possessed. Charging fine and stops at about 13.7 volt. I added a ground from voltage regulator to brake booster. Thanks everyone. On to next gremlin

!! Very Good !!
 
So I'm going to turn my attention to the cluster and while checking power the case has power on it but no lights and it wont crank again, I'm going inside. No lunch and its time for dinner. I need a match an some gasoline.
 
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