74 Duster Dash light swap.

[Valas]

after looking around on the internet for a while I settled on getting some Whiteface gauge stickers and some LED Dash lights, my only Problem is I am a little hesitant to take off my dash for fear of Damaging it in the process.

I am not exactly gentle when it comes down to taking things apart... and I really do not want to ruin anything since her interior is all original. and in great condition.

so what I need is some help or advice(preferably a guide on how to take off my gauges without harming my dash. anything would be helpful, Thanks in advance for any advice given.

(I will post pictures as soon as I can get them onto my computer)

 

[2 Darts]

The WhiteFace gauges come with instructions on how to separate the instrument cluster so they can be installed. You'll also need something that will blow hot air, too. You will need to remove the instrument cluster, so I understand your anxiety.

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the three bolts that attach the steering column to the car. You need to be able to lower the column, not remove it.
3. Pull the knob off of the windshield wiper switch. Carefully unscrew the nut underneath. I ground down a dud socket so it engages the "teeth" in the nut.
4. Grope around until you can find a little knob with a spring under it on the dash side of the headlight switch. Press the knob and pull the headlight switch knob and shaft out. Some of the nuts are cut for a flat tip screw driver. Remove the nut.
5. Remove six screws that hold the instrument cluster into the dash panel.
6. Pull down the steering column. Begin to remove the instrument cluster. There are four connections to the back of the instrument cluster.
a. There are two terminals on the back of the Alternator gauge that need to be unscrewed. Pliers needed. Remove the nuts and the wires that are on the terminals. Pay attention to the terminal of each wire.
b. The speedometer cable is secured with a snap clip. Squeeze the clip at the appropriate place and pull the cable free.
c. The pigtail of wires plugs into the printed circuit board near the center. It can be tough to remove. You may be tempted to take a screwdriver and pry it out. Be careful. Cracking the circuit board may render it non-op.

At this point you should have a complete instrument cluster assembly in your hands, less headlight and wiper switches.

 

[Rice Nuker]

Pictures, yes that will help. I just put a couple dashes in my 74 duster. Also previously I basically destroyed my gauge cluster from my 73 Duster doing exploratory surgrey on it. Built one gauge cluster out of two for my 74 etc.. The white face stickers sounds sweet.. Brighter lights are needed too. Whered you buy the stickers from? Did you get some new clear lenses? All the lenses I have seen are scratched and milky when you get them out and inspect them.. I spent a few hours polishing mine but the slightly milky color is throughout the plastic and cannot be buffed off.. I can probably add some good guidance, but I am not as crafty as some on this site, maybe someone else will chime in as well, my main lack of expertise on this type of gauge cluster bezel is removing the lenses from the bezel as they are plastic solder melted in place..

 

[2 Darts]

Based on a test I did of scanning the gauges, then reversing the black and white, I decided to do the WhiteFace gauge thing. While I was at it, I also played around with the woodgrain.

The damage to my lens was confined to the outer surface. Though I thought I was done with it forever when I left the service, Brasso took out the scratches and haze. It takes a while doing it by hand. It may be possible to use a buffing wheel, but I don't trust myself at this point.

 

[Valas]

Pictures, yes that will help. I just put a couple dashes in my 74 duster. Also previously I basically destroyed my gauge cluster from my 73 Duster doing exploratory surgrey on it. Built one gauge cluster out of two for my 74 etc.. The white face stickers sounds sweet.. Brighter lights are needed too. Whered you buy the stickers from? Did you get some new clear lenses? All the lenses I have seen are scratched and milky when you get them out and inspect them.. I spent a few hours polishing mine but the slightly milky color is throughout the plastic and cannot be buffed off.. I can probably add some good guidance, but I am not as crafty as some on this site, maybe someone else will chime in as well, my main lack of expertise on this type of gauge cluster bezel is removing the lenses from the bezel as they are plastic solder melted in place..

I bought my WhiteFace guages from http://www.whitegauges.net/ they have the gauges for both the 195 and 225 6 cylinder engines. I also bought the 5 foot Rope LED light(Green) so I will end up wrapping it around the gauges. I will take a picture of that in the morning. I have also gone to www.superbrightleds.com, they have any light you might need on they're site for really cheap.



2Darts:

after Checking my Whiteface Package I noticed that my instructions were Missing, so I contacted them and they Emailed me the directions and even offered to snailmail me the instructions I promptly thanked them and Printed out what I got through Email. Thanks for the Step by Step, I will start on it in the morning.

I was also wondering what type of Woodgrain you swapped out for, I have the original Gold duster package through out my car(with an exception of the Wheels/Tires, and the replaced Vynal top). I was wanted to inquire what looks best and get a few opinions on if I should get a custom made aluminium/steel dash cluster or stick with wood.

 

[Rice Nuker]

Hmmm, thanks for the links!

I have not gone to the point of replacing the wood-grain on the outside. I actually sand blasted my outer plastic bezel part, being really careful and simply stripped everything off the plastic, then painted it gloss black. The refurb was mostly an experiment as my dash was looking all crappy and I had a few hours to kill..

I think a bead blaster to strip it, a little masking, paint it with aluminum spray paint in appropriate locations, black in the others, then a replacement woodgrain cover and the white face gauges would really look great..

I cant find the woodgrain sticker covers as of yet..

Those are pretty detailed instructions 2darts..

If one could, remove the steering wheel as well.. It was totally pissing me off the other day. You really want the steering column down really far, maybe pull it down and put something between the mounts and the column like a block of wood.. When you are pulling down on the column, i think the bolts on the firewall where the column goes thru the firewall should be loose or removed as well, cause when I was pulling my column down it was mildly bending (tweaking) the column tube as the firewall bolts were still tight. This restricted the amount I could lower it, causing me some grief as it was not low (out of the way) enough..

 

[2 Darts]

2Darts:

after Checking my Whiteface Package I noticed that my instructions were Missing, so I contacted them and they Emailed me the directions and even offered to snailmail me the instructions I promptly thanked them and Printed out what I got through Email. Thanks for the Step by Step, I will start on it in the morning.

Mistakes happen. I like it when a company steps up and makes good with no hassles.

I was also wondering what type of Woodgrain you swapped out for, I have the original Gold duster package through out my car(with an exception of the Wheels/Tires, and the replaced Vynal top). I was wanted to inquire what looks best and get a few opinions on if I should get a custom made aluminium/steel dash cluster or stick with wood.

Here are three of my proposals to myself. The woods are basically vinyl with an adhesive back. The dark wood, walnut, came from Lowe's. The light wood came from Dollar General as shelf paper.
The engine turned aluminum is metal foil with an adhesive backing. In my tests, it stands up to high temps better than the vinyls do. It is not harder to work with IMO than the vinyls.
To get this right, I made a template out of frozen pizza boxes and trace a reverse image onto the back of the material. Using a variety of shop objects, that my shrink says I should not have, I cut out the design. Blades need to be very sharp.
If you want more choice of more materials, try this link.
http://www.hotrodworks.net/decal/dash.html
Have fun, good luck, don't cut yourself.