741 x housing

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Allencf

Allencf

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Realizing this is on a 64 dodge d100 three speed manual truck and not an a body mopar, I’d still like to ask the question (since the resources for this model truck is very hard to find and the car setup might be same) trying to figure out if this is an 8-3/4 ? Would like to buy new seals and gasket and reuse this rearend even with the tapered axle shafts… if this is a bad move please chime in with recommendations and experience you might have with this setup..thanks in advance..

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It is. Finding new gears for 741 case is more challenging than 742 and 489. If you’re happy with the ratio giver
 
What are you putting it in? Or is it staying in the pickup?

Tapered axles are a pain in the rear. I own 3 in old cars. Life is much easier with a flanged axle.
 
Tapered axles aren't that bad.. you have to have a tool for pulling the flange off is all (The tool is cheap).. The 741 is the "Weakest" pig... but weak isn't a good description.. they are plenty tough... Remember they put them behind max wedges... so unless you are getting stupid they are a good axle.
 
741 is plenty strong, especially for a street driven vehicle.

It is bigger than a stock 9" ford.
 
BTW.. Dr. Diff has all the seals and **** you will need, and he only sells good parts...

P.S. Remember to pack the back of the seal with grease or the spring will pop out when you hammer the seal into the axle tube... then you will get to do that "**** MY LIFE" dance... which is always funny...
 
I wish the "weakest one" myth would go away. Saying any of the 8 3/4 centers is stronger is splittin hairs at best.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wish the "weakest one" myth would go away. Saying any of the 8 3/4 centers is stronger is splittin hairs at best.
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My last challenger was a big block with 3.91s and a manual valve body with a 741 case.. i beat the **** outa that thing for 8 years and that rear end never once gave me a problem.. 741 is plenty for most..
 
abodyjoe said:
magazines scared people with that crap years ago..
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Your right. That when I heard it. I've had 340 Darts my whole life and never broke one as well. I had a friend give me a 742 chuck complete cause he would only run 489 cases. Turned out to be a 323 Posi I have in my 68 500 Stroker. Did nothing to it.
 
Is it leaking? If it ain't broke.
I have a few pre-65 rears, nothing wrong with them.
Definitely needed a hub puller to swap to 65 drums, now the drum and hub are separate and can pull the drums off same as 65 and up.
I pulled the axles from one by removing the backing plates, putting the hub back on loosely, and hitting around the back of the hub with a small hammer, popped right out.

While we're talking about pre-65, the ball & trunnion 'u-joint' is bulletproof, imo.
I've had u-joints fail, but never a b&t, even with a ripped boot and kept driving it.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Your right. That when I heard it. I've had 340 Darts my whole life and never broke one as well. I had a friend give me a 742 chuck complete cause he would only run 489 cases. Turned out to be a 323 Posi I have in my 68 500 Stroker. Did nothing to it.
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they did the same with a 727 over a 904 and f body spindle thing.. all bullshit.

mopar magazines published a bunch of poor information in the 80's and 90's
 
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@matthon I had a friend who raced Maxes back in the day. He told me they never broke a Ball & Trunnion! And yes my Max still has the B & T and the tapered axles! They are part of his personality.
 
since it's 64 you'll be stuck with all 64 and earlier stuff if you want to upgrade the gears/diff.

but if you're not updating anything, no worries. i'd just throw seals and gaskets at it and roll. doctordiff has the good parts. summit and rock have the bits too, but you have to be particularly attentive to which brand (some are crap) and watch that they're not shipping from like three different warehouses and touch you up on $30 in shipping.

oh and i'll echo the sentiments upthread, the 741 is plenty strong.
 
Icetech said:
BTW.. Dr. Diff has all the seals and **** you will need, and he only sells good parts...
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I dont know about "all"...... hes a good supplier, but when i bought stuff from him, it would seem there was an assumption that i was working on a '65 and later even tho they require your model details.

The OP should also be aware.... he has shims setting the end play.....dont confuse them with the steel seals on EACH end of the housing.....youd have a hard time finding new ones if need be.

Best of Luck, Lefty71
 
MAXWEDGECHARLIE said:
@matthon I had a friend who raced Maxes back in the day. He told me they never broke a Ball & Trunnion! And yes my Max still has the B & T and the tapered axles! They are part of his personality.
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Yup. Race Hemis also came with them. If that's not a serious endorsement, I don't know what is!
 
413 said:
What are you putting it in? Or is it staying in the pickup?

Tapered axles are a pain in the rear. I own 3 in old cars. Life is much easier with a flanged axle.
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Staying in the truck.. with a mild built 318 ..
 
junkyardhero said:
since it's 64 you'll be stuck with all 64 and earlier stuff if you want to upgrade the gears/diff.

but if you're not updating anything, no worries. i'd just throw seals and gaskets at it and roll. doctordiff has the good parts. summit and rock have the bits too, but you have to be particularly attentive to which brand (some are crap) and watch that they're not shipping from like three different warehouses and touch you up on $30 in shipping.

oh and i'll echo the sentiments upthread, the 741 is plenty strong.
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Calling dr today..planning to stay with original.. thanks
 
Beat the piss out of it. you will not hurt that center section... when you pull the axles as someone stated above there are thin metal shims that look like metal gaskets.. write down how many on each side and just put them back the same... it's not many like 2-3...usually..
This is the tool for pulling the hub off the axle

Ok.. weird i can't post a amazon link...

I wish you were local i would give you mine...
 
Here is a vid of a guy pulling it using the tool... And the tool is on amazon.. search for

TruePower 20-2029 Universal Hub Puller​

And lube the threads.. unlike the guy in the video.

 
Also. just FYI.. if your drums are shot, the wheel studs are swedged and hold the hub to the drum... you can cut them off and knock them out put in normal studs and use cheap normal drums if you need em... takes 20 mins. the B-body forum has good nfo on all of it.
 
Thanks for the info…I finally have the hubs off and back plates..it took the special tool along with heat!! I tried to pull gears out and was thinking about replacing axles but they didn’t won’t to come out very easy… so I put housing back on and of course now it leaks..
I'm hoping to replace axle seals and maybe gasket material to stop leaks..
 
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