8 1/4 rear

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Snake

Mopar Nut
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Hi I just got an 8 1/4 with 355 gears and sure grip for my duster.The pinion seal is leaking,so whats in involved to removed and replace,and I may as well change the axle bearings and seals.This 8 1/4 is new to me,sure i have had them in the past but never monkey with 1.Thanks for the help,I guess I should of Listen to Del about getting a manual.:oops: Thanks for the help.
 
With 8.25's the pinion depth is set using a crush style washer. Check the preload torque value on the yoke nut before you pull the yoke. Do this with a torque wrench checking more than once and not over tightening the nut. Once your confident of the torque value on the nut; remove the yoke; take small pry bar remove old and reinstall new seal; reinstall the yoke and torque the nut to your previously found torque value. Basically you don't want to disrupt the original pinion depth set up by squishing the crush washer even more.
If I can remember right I think with 8.25's the axles ride directly on the axle bearings. (I hope someone else can help me out here.) There is no inner race for axle bearings to ride on the axles themselves are used as the bearing race. if that's the case when you change out the axle bearings inspect the axles at the bearing location. If there is any wear or damage to the axle it may be considered shot or on a shortened life expectancy. I believe 8.25 A body axles are hard to come by.
 
With 8.25's the pinion depth is set using a crush style washer. Check the preload torque value on the yoke nut before you pull the yoke. Do this with a torque wrench checking more than once and not over tightening the nut. Once your confident of the torque value on the nut; remove the yoke; take small pry bar remove old and reinstall new seal; reinstall the yoke and torque the nut to your previously found torque value. Basically you don't want to disrupt the original pinion depth set up by squishing the crush washer even more.
If I can remember right I think with 8.25's the axles ride directly on the axle bearings. (I hope someone else can help me out here.) There is no inner race for axle bearings to ride on the axles themselves are used as the bearing race. if that's the case when you change out the axle bearings inspect the axles at the bearing location. If there is any wear or damage to the axle it may be considered shot or on a shortened life expectancy. I believe 8.25 A body axles are hard to come by.
Thanks for the help.
 
The crush sleeve will not affect the pinion depth only the bearing preload. If the gear oil looks pearl like you have some bearing issues and will need to go deeper or the seal will fail again soon.
 
Mgunner is correct about the crush washer preload being just on the bearing. My mistake.
 
The crush sleeve will not affect the pinion depth only the bearing preload. If the gear oil looks pearl like you have some bearing issues and will need to go deeper or the seal will fail again soon.

X2
Mark the nut and pinion end with a punch for reference. Pull the brake drums, both axles and then check bearing preload with an inch pound torque wrench. Write the spec down and when you assemble you tighten the pinion to align punch mark. Recheck bearing preload, it may be a little more due to the new pinion seal being tighter. Red threadlocker on the pinion nut also.
 
You can actually add a thin shim between the outer bearing and old crush sleeve if you don't have a new sleeve available and don't feel your preload is correct.
 
Related question: I just got an 8.25 off a junked '74 Valiant, and the whole top of the gear case was covered with about 1/8" of greasy grime, from the pinion seal all the way back to the cover plate, and a few inches out onto each axle housing. The bottom side was much cleaner. Any guesses as to how it got so gunky on top? I'm reluctant to mess with the pinion seal since I don't understand this business of preload, and the crush gasket is a bit intimidating, but I'm wondering if I should replace the seals before installing it. I already had to pull the axles because it came with 11" brakes and I wanted 10". By the way, when I drained the oil out of it, it looked like pancake syrup, which I assume is a good thing.
 
The crush sleeve will not affect the pinion depth only the bearing preload. If the gear oil looks pearl like you have some bearing issues and will need to go deeper or the seal will fail again soon.

And they make a repair bearing for worn axle surfaces.
basically it just relocates the rollers of the bearings to a different spot on the axle.
 
Knock the yoke off the pinion gear pop the old seal out put the new seal in and put it back together. Tighten the pinion nut gently with an impact until you JUST can feel the pinion getting a little tight to turn. Done.

I have done so many that way and never had a problem.
 

Knock the yoke off the pinion gear pop the old seal out put the new seal in and put it back together. Tighten the pinion nut gently with an impact until you JUST can feel the pinion getting a little tight to turn. Done.

I have done so many that way and never had a problem.

Thanks Rob, food for future thoughts.
 
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