8 3/4 axle upgrade to LBP

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jefflock

jefflock

69 Dart 408 10.08 best pass so far
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I started converting to LBP. I have a pair of Yukon axles that both measure 28" from the front of the flange to the spline end. My center section still has the thrust block in it so it looks like I'll be pulling the center section. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
 
Well since this is a race car I'd put a spool in it. If you can send the Yukons back I'd go ahead and get Mosers 35 spline axles and spool. That way you'll be all set even if you want to shorten the rear later for tire clearance they will cut and respline them for you. Or if you want to put a Dana in it later you'll still be good as the 35 spline axles are the same.

BTW I'll add that, that is what I should have done, hindsight is always 20/20 ya know.
 
Not much you can do but yank it out Jeff. If you don't the axles won't seat all the way in and strip the splines in very short time. If it's a clutch type sure-grip it's super easy to remove the thrust pins.
 
This project is on my 68 Dart. I have another set of gears I need to get set up and ready for installation. If the car was only raced a spool would be installed. I have the backing plates already assembled and ready to be installed.
 
jefflock said:
This project is on my 68 Dart. I have another set of gears I need to get set up and ready for installation. If the car was only raced a spool would be installed. I have the backing plates already assembled and ready to be installed.
Click to expand...

Well then that's another story.
 
I think Dr. Diff. cuts his conversion axles slightly shorter than 28" so that the thrust buttons can stay in place. I'm not 100% sure.....but I think that's the case.

I think Dr. Diff is on the list....is this true??????
 
swing69 said:
I think Dr. Diff. cuts his conversion axles slightly shorter than 28" so that the thrust buttons can stay in place. I'm not 100% sure.....but I think that's the case.

I think Dr. Diff is on the list....is this true??????
Click to expand...

I think that is correct, they are shorter than 28". He's mentioned it before.
 
Contact info for Dr. Diff anyone have it?
 
swing69 said:
I think Dr. Diff. cuts his conversion axles slightly shorter than 28" so that the thrust buttons can stay in place. I'm not 100% sure.....but I think that's the case.

I think Dr. Diff is on the list....is this true??????
Click to expand...

He told me a while back he'll do it whatever way you want but recommends taking out the thrust pins.
 
I`ve got Moser axles with Green Bearings and the thrust pin is still in the center section. No problems here but I`ve heard that you should remove the thrust pin when going with Green Bearings. Guitar Jones brings up a good point. If you are going to use the car for racing only then the 35 spline axles and a spool would be a great way to go.

I can vouch for Doctordiff, his products are well thought out and service is prompt and comprehensive. Excellent dude to deal with.
 
I guess I have too many projects going on. This conversion is for my 68 GTS that is mostly for street/show since I now have the orange 69. I will still take it over occasionally to what is now Grudge racing. Used to be test and tune.

John, I'm in the same boat as you. I went ahead and installed the drivers side axle. It went in right up to the snap ring with no problem. So I measured the other axle from the snap ring to the spline end. (25 1/2") Measured from the spacer to where the snap ring should seat. (26") I went ahead and installed that axle also.

Is there going to be problems down the road doing this?

I have 489 cone type sure grip that is waiting for my 4.30 gears to be installed. The car currently has a 4.10 741 case in it.
 
That can't be good in the long run. You are loading the axle bearings un necessarilly in a way that they aren't meant to be continously loaded. If you have the gears and the case do the swap and remove the block, if not, I'd wait.
 
Jeff I'm not sure I understand so correct me if I'm wrong but aren't those axles 28" long? If so how did you get it installed where you measured 26"?
 
Tracy, The axles are 28" long from the wheel face of the flange to the end of the splines. Now the axle only goes into the housing till the snap ring hits. The retainer uses the snap ring to hold the axle in place. Am I Right or Wrong on that? So from the snap ring to the spline end it is 25 1/2". From the thrust block to the housing end where the snap ring seats it measures 26". I have an extra 1/2" clearance from the end of the axle to the thrust block. I hope this clears it up.
 
Well I had a set back so I'm posting this to warn others. I have all my parts mocked up and put in place. The Micky drag radial's were transfered to the new Pro Stars. I put one tire and wheel assembly on with no problem. When I went over on the drivers side it was another story. Put 2 lugs on no problem but when I started the third it wasn't going easy. So I got a bigger rachet. Bad Mistake. I ended up breaking off 4 of the lugs to get the wheel back off. Lesson learned use plenty of lube and take your time and most of all keep your head on. Now I get to start over.
 
Were the lugs crossthreaded?Hope you get it figured out,back to pulling that axel out again.Always setbacks..
 
Not cross threaded they just siezed up on the studs.
 
I was under the impression that the Moser axles wouldn't go in all the way if the thrust deal was still in the diff?

Steve
 
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