8 3/4 questions

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Lelo Dart

Lelo Dart

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OK, I've got the pumpkin out and when I set it on the floor and try to turn the yoke it is pretty hard to turn. Is this normal? When I turn the 7 1/4 that I am replacing it spins super easy. I figured that it should spin easy with nothing holding it. I looked at the bearings (without taking them out) and they look ok, I guess. Which leads to my next question, I bought the rear end on craigslist and don't know any history on it. I looked like someone had beat one of the axles to get it out the axle bearings were destroyed. Thats all fixed now but should I just put the pumpkin back in and try it out to see if it's good or do I throw more money at it and have it all rebuilt?:newb:
 
They should never turn hard.... sounds like its worn, possibly carrier or pinion bearings, need replaced.
 
Sounds like you've got a bad one, I wouldn't put it in.

By your question, I don't understand what you're trying to do. More info please, maybe you can save some money, or at least get what you need the first time around.

Are you sure they didn't beat the axles going in ? How about a picture of the pumpkin and axles. Which pumpkin do you have ? Suregrip ? Ratio ? Axle bearing type?

Since you're new at this, you could have it fixed and still not have what you want or really need. This can run into big money before you're done, if you just throw money at it.

Take some time and rewrite your information and questions.
 
In my opinion if you can turn the yoke by hand without having to put a bar through the cap straps it's probably OK. It should turn harder than a 7 1/4 because there is a lot more mass there to turn. If it has been sitting for a while some of the rear end lube has probably dried in the bearings adding to the resistance.

When I rebuilt my center section, 489 8 3/4, it had quite a bit of resistance to it. There is supposed to be some anyway, I don't remember the exact number, I think it was 19 ft lbs using a torsional torque wrench.

I would inspect it carefully. If you are going to run it, make sure your axles will seat in both sets of splines on each side of the suregrip before you install it in the housing as that will help in getting the axles back in and seated properly.


DO NOT pull it apart as it requires certain steps and tools to reset backlash and gear pattern.

A little more info on what you have would be helpful.

Are you running the standard tapered roller bearings or the green bearings?

If green bearings did you remove the thrust buttons?

Is it a cone style sure grip or clutch style? Or is it open?
 
70 DUSTER CRATE said:
Sounds like you've got a bad one, I wouldn't put it in.

By your question, I don't understand what you're trying to do. More info please, maybe you can save some money, or at least get what you need the first time around.

Are you sure they didn't beat the axles going in ? How about a picture of the pumpkin and axles. Which pumpkin do you have ? Suregrip ? Ratio ? Axle bearing type?
Click to expand...
No, not sure but the damage is to the inside of the axle flange. Pics coming soon. 489. Yes suregrip, cone type. 3.23 ratio. MP green bearings. I'm tring not to spend more money. But I'm in too deep to back out now.
 
Some pics.
 

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:error:Sideways. Try again.
 

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Lelo Dart said:
No, I didn't know I needed to. Don't I have to take it apart to do that?
Click to expand...

If it's a cone style, yes. You have to take the suregrip unit itself apart to remove the thrust block. Clutch style you can just knock the buttons out without taking it apart.

I have seen a lot of guys say they didn't remove them and it worked fine. I have always been told they need to come out. Maybe someone else who is running the cone style can chip in here.
 
I run a 742 center but the problem I see here is that it was taken apart by a rooky, there should be a little back lash between ring and pinion or may have torqued the crush sleeve tight on the pinion, pull ring gear out and spin yoke
 
Bad Sport said:
If it's a cone style, yes. You have to take the suregrip unit itself apart to remove the thrust block. Clutch style you can just knock the buttons out without taking it apart.

I have seen a lot of guys say they didn't remove them and it worked fine. I have always been told they need to come out. Maybe someone else who is running the cone style can chip in here.
Click to expand...

Depends on just how long the axles are. They can be long enough to engage ok even with the thrust block in but you have to do some careful measuring and trimming, or get real lucky. IMO it's best to remove it.
 
Lelo it could be that your 7-1/4 was just real loose and the 8-3/4 is a little on the tight side, but not bad enough to be a problem. Kinda hard to guess unless you have the feel for it. Do you have a dial type inch lb. torque wrench? If so you can measure the rotating torque it takes to turn it. Shouldn't be more than 50 inch lbs. max, although I saw one that a guy near me set up with new gears and bearings that I couldn't even turn by hand no matter how hard I tried and I told the owner it would be lucky to last 10 miles before it toasted everything. That was 4 yrs. and 3000 miles ago and it's still running. Go figure!
 
fishy68 said:
Depends on just how long the axles are. They can be long enough to engage ok even with the thrust block in but you have to do some careful measuring and trimming, or get real lucky. IMO it's best to remove it.
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Cone style right? And this is the thrust block? If removed you could see strait through it?
 

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If your using green bearing kit you won't need the thrust block otherwise you need it for axle preload adjustment. Good luck!
 
Lelo Dart said:
Cone style right? And this is the thrust block? If removed you could see strait through it?
Click to expand...

Yep, cone style. That is the block but even when removed the spider gear cross shaft that runs through it will block a lot of light. You can see around the cross shaft, just not completely open.
 
Lelo Dart said:
OK. I read that, it said that measuring is key to knowing if the thrust block has to come out. How do I measure? Non-technicial terms please.:newb:
Click to expand...

I guess the easiest way would be to slip the center section in the housing and get a buddy over each of you armed with a 3-4' piece of pipe. At the same time you and your buddy stick your pipes in through the axle tubes until both are bottomed out against the spacer. Then each marks his pipe with a marker right at the end of the axle tube flange then take them out and measure from the end of the pipes to the mark then measure the axles from the end of the spline to the inside of the part of the bearing flange where it bolts up to the axle tube flange and compare the figures. Lets say for example you both measure 26" and the axles measure less than 26" your ok. If the axles measure more they need trimmed. You don't need much clearance actually. .025-030" would be plenty

Be aware that the spacer floats in the center section so when you guys do the measurements with your pipe you may not both come up with the exact same measurements if the spacer is slid over to one side or another. If that's the case add the numbers and divide by 2 to get an average.
 
Thank you fishy68 I'll definitely do that. If its good I'll just run it and see how it goes. If not then I guess I'm SOL and have to take it somewhere.
 
If it does check high it could be the governor weight spring broke but it's most likely just stuck. Doesn't take much to jam a little valve like that. If that's the case, before you take it anywhere you might try adding a can of K&W Trans-X to it and drive it around a while and see if the Trans-x frees it up. I've had that stuff work miracles in a couple transmissions.
 
Well measured and the axles and together they are a full 1/4" long. My dad was suggesting shimming the flanges or grinding 1/8 '' off the axle spline ends. Doesn't sound very good to me but he is really smart and it might be good, I don't know. Don't think I'm gonna like it when I see how much they are gonna charge me to rebuild my gears just to take that spacer out. What do you all think?
 
You can cut the excess off, I would not grind it. Take the axles to a shop that has a saw to properly cut them. Then taper the end of the splines a little to match what they look like now. You will probably have to do a little clean up on the axle ends.

Double and triple and quadruple check your measurements before doing so. You can't put it back if you take off too much.

I would not shim the bearing end.
 
Bad Sport said:
You can cut the excess off, I would not grind it. Take the axles to a shop that has a saw to properly cut them. Then taper the end of the splines a little to match what they look like now. You will probably have to do a little clean up on the axle ends.

Double and triple and quadruple check your measurements before doing so. You can't put it back if you take off too much.

I would not shim the bearing end.
Click to expand...

Agreed^^^ Trimming is the way to go.
 
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