I think it was listed at 8 3/8, don't quote me though
8 3/4 Yoke Issues, U-Bolts? Big Straps?
- Thread starter Hyper_pak
- Start date
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Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Yes, that is why I bought it. Not an 833, push button 904. It was a professional build, just don't know what happened with the rear joint. I will measure the joint tomorrow. But I still need to shorten the shaft for the 8 3/4 so I still think a new shaft is what I need. But I need to know what the Yoke is and get the right u-bolts before I order the shaft.
yep... until 74.
I sold my 74 W100 Shortbox a few years back but dont recall which ujoints it took.
Do you have the trunion eliminator for your 833 ?
I just bought one for a 1330 joint with plans to run it behind my 408 W2 Swinger.
I wanted the low first gear of the early trany and liked the notion I could pull the shaft without gear oil pouring everywhere.
But I ended up using a later model trany.
I sold my 74 W100 Shortbox a few years back but dont recall which ujoints it took.
Do you have the trunion eliminator for your 833 ?
I just bought one for a 1330 joint with plans to run it behind my 408 W2 Swinger.
I wanted the low first gear of the early trany and liked the notion I could pull the shaft without gear oil pouring everywhere.
But I ended up using a later model trany.
DoctorDiff
Well-Known Member
You have a stock (strap style) Mopar yoke with the threads drilled out.
Dr Diff beat me to it. What you have is a stock 7260 or 7290, can't tell by the picture alone. Someone has drilled out the holes to use a girdle type retainers.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Why would someone do that? There is not really enough material on the back to let the nuts ride correctly. If it was drilled they did a pretty good job, they aren't wallered out or messed up. Had to have been done on a press, not under the car for sure.
So if I get a correct driveshaft with the correct u-joint and then change out the yoke, I will be good to go. That sounds expensive for something that should be so simple.
So if I get a correct driveshaft with the correct u-joint and then change out the yoke, I will be good to go. That sounds expensive for something that should be so simple.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
And just some more info. The Yoke measures 1.08. on the cups.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Keep measuring the d/s and the yoke. All you need is diameter and span between the c-clips. Then find the conversion u-joint at the site I referenced earlier. Or contact Dr. Diff, I'm sure he can help.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
The case is sol-ved, to quote inspector Clouseau!
Here is a whole story,
1962 Lancer Wagon, Slant, 904 Pushbutton. I purchased a driveshaft off Slant Six forum a few years ago. It has the front ball and trunnion conversion on it. It is a new shaft and I thought it was a bolt in for a stock early A. The driveshaft is 2+ inches too long for my 8 3/4 conversion. That part I knew.
I just got off the phone with Driveshaft Specialist in San Antonio. What I have is a 7290 rear DS yoke with some kind of conversion joint. Like a 7290 to 1310 or 1330. I looked closer at the rear yoke, and it HAS been drilled out to use u-bolts or a girdle! I do not have those parts. I never looked at that part of the rear. It's a 741 housing so I can remove the yoke without disturbing the gear set.
I am shipping the driveshaft to them, they will shorten it 2+ inches, replace the joint with a 7290 and sell me the correct yoke for the 8 3/4 and a 7290 joint. $imple $olution to my problem. I never said I was smart.
Thanks to everyone for the help! All you folks helped me put piece after piece together.
Here is a whole story,
1962 Lancer Wagon, Slant, 904 Pushbutton. I purchased a driveshaft off Slant Six forum a few years ago. It has the front ball and trunnion conversion on it. It is a new shaft and I thought it was a bolt in for a stock early A. The driveshaft is 2+ inches too long for my 8 3/4 conversion. That part I knew.
I just got off the phone with Driveshaft Specialist in San Antonio. What I have is a 7290 rear DS yoke with some kind of conversion joint. Like a 7290 to 1310 or 1330. I looked closer at the rear yoke, and it HAS been drilled out to use u-bolts or a girdle! I do not have those parts. I never looked at that part of the rear. It's a 741 housing so I can remove the yoke without disturbing the gear set.
I am shipping the driveshaft to them, they will shorten it 2+ inches, replace the joint with a 7290 and sell me the correct yoke for the 8 3/4 and a 7290 joint. $imple $olution to my problem. I never said I was smart.
Thanks to everyone for the help! All you folks helped me put piece after piece together.
You would probably get by just fine with the Yoke you already have.
The Yoke on the top is the 7260 drill for the U-joint girdle. The Yoke in the middle is a 1330 with straps on it instead of u-bolts. And the yoke on the bottom is a 7690 that has been drilled to use bolts all the way through instead of those little rinky-dink things that snap off.
The Yoke on the top is the 7260 drill for the U-joint girdle. The Yoke in the middle is a 1330 with straps on it instead of u-bolts. And the yoke on the bottom is a 7690 that has been drilled to use bolts all the way through instead of those little rinky-dink things that snap off.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
I agree, but it this point in the build I need to get this part done. Here is the offending member! Looking closer I can see where it was drilled.
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Take a flat file and dress it up. Then get some straps at oriellys and some harden allen bolts and lock nuts. They will never twist off as in snap in two.
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Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Yes, I could do that. But this way I have a standard big j-joint.
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That is what you have with the wrong u-jount on your drive shaft.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Yea I know, but I have already bought the shaft, I have a yoke I don't want to use, I have to get the shaft cut to fit, so I will just make the best out of what I have.
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