90 degree adapter leak

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I tried to run just a filter plate on my car with TTI headers. The filter sat right on the headers for some awesome oil heating. Had to loosen header to change the filter. I run an original '69 340 90 degree adapter now. I put a thin film of black RTV on both sides of block gasket and snug it up. I always use a new Mopar Performance gasket kit that comes with all three gaskets. Not a drop of oil.
 
I have had this same issue. I had a 90 adaptor on my 418 and it leaked all over when I got on it. Last week I changed to just the filter plate and it still leaked. After reading this forum I ordered the Canton Filter plate with the O ring. I put it on last night, cleaned / scraped block surface again, torqued to 40 ft lbs and It still leaks!
Has anyone had sucess with the canton plate? Im wondering if the o ring moved while tighteningcause it did spin some. Or is that o ring just not give a good seal. I'm running out of ideas here and sick of the leak!
I have a high volume pump and have @ 60 lbs pressure at higher rpm. Doesnt seem to leak at idle even though it has 80 psi cold. It seems to leak when I get on it as thats when I see the white smoke in the rear view - burning off the headers. There is oil all over on the filter side and I cant believe it would be coming from anywhere else. Thanks Tom
 
my issue i had after 2 new sets of gaskets and sealer it was the bolt two long <the old and a new one>just enough was not tightand should of been --cut 1/8 off and no more problems
 
Just some info you should know. The blocks are different in later years and take a different adapter. The two gasket surfaces are on the same level on the block on later engines. Early blocks were different Also the early bolts were prone to stretch. If the 4 holes in the side of the bolt are even with each other throw it away. They should be offset . two are closer to the head. This gives the bolt more strength. The bolt in the diagram above shows the holes even. This is a bad design and stretches. I can provide pics if needed
 
It is a 69 340 block and the adaptor was aluminum style with a steel bolt. The holes on the bolt were two low and two higher I think. When I changed to the original plate I used a factory plate steel and the threaded bolt. I now used the Canton plate with the factory threaded bolt and O ring as they recomend. I have MP gaskets coming today and gonna try again. Just looking for any advise to avoid another failure. Again I scraped and scuffed the block prior to assembly as well. Is there a recomended torque spec on that bolt?
 
Sounds like you might have a later adapter and are putting it on an early motor. I just ran into that with my resto block. I could not use the early plate or adapter on my new block. I had to use a plate from a newer magnum block even though it was a LA style resto block. You should check the offset on both gasket surfaces. on the block and the adapter. Using a short straight edge. I have seen this problem first hand
 
Thanks for the input. I will check that when I pull apart tonight. The thing is that Canton filter plate is supposed to be designed for the older blocks. Ill look at it all again and try to figure it out. Thanks again.
 
Cudatom are you sure it's not running down from the back of the valve covers? When you say it doesn't leak when cold yet it has 80 psi oil pressure but leaks when you drive it, sounds to me like it's something other than it leaking. I've had valve covers leak just down the back side and it runs right down onto the filter area making it look like it's what's leaking. Next time it's cooled down run your hand down the back of the valve cover and head and down to the filter and see there is oil there anywhere. If it's dry down the back side check the oil filter itself to make sure it doesn't have a pin hole in it.
 
Thanks guys, Well after much frustration, a few filters, and a few header burns...I finally figured it out. The oil spray/ leak is not coming from the filter area anymore after all. It was originally but the canton filter adaptor stopped that. Second delema was the very end of the rear pan seal must have squezed inside the pan on that side when I torqued the oil pan. The rubber knob that holds the rear seal in place was still (held in by rtv) there but found that it was NOT atached to the seal. The seal had moved in enough leaving the hole the seal knob should be in wide open. When the engine revs and especially in gear under acceleration the oil is forced to the rear of the pan causing it to leak out of that hole and the wind then sprayed it all over there. I was able to fill the hole with Rtv and put a screw in the hole. It stopped the leak other than a minor drip at rear of pan seal. That will be enough to get a few miles on it before winter. Then ill pull apart and change the seal. Tks for your input and maybe this will help someone elses problem too!
 
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