904 differences

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cannucky said:
Now wher at the hardware store would I find that clip ? plumbing ? we don't have Ace up here any more and all the Home Hardware stores have changed hands but if I knew where to look maybe Homo Depot or Lowes will have it
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I highly doubt you'll find that clip at any hardware store. I'd check the local auto supply 1st.
 
thanks Fishy will do , any thoughts on the no D thing ? am I thinking right on that one ? shouldn't it move in D if it moves in the other 2 selections ?
 
..............if the new manual valve wasnt adjusted properly, u have problems like u do now..........i should have a few of those clips....email me a pic of the linkage.......kim.......
 
what new manual valve are you talking about ? and how do I adjust it ? if your talking about the valve body I didn't swap it for a manual it is the stock body that was in the trans before , I'll try to get a pictured of the linkage after work , it's the mopar 4 bbl kickdown set up for the 727 that was in it before , I'm going to release the pressure on the linkage and make sure the shifter is hitting all the selections in the trans after work as well . I didn't have time to drive it last night after doing the safety switch I just backed out of the garage and pulled it back in after cleaning the floor and looking for the clip in the sweepings so I'll try driving it a little after doing the linkage .
 
The manual valve is the valve in the valve body that is connected to the shift linkage and moves when you move the shifter. It's called a manual valve because it's moved by the action of moving the shifter rather than by hydraulic pressure like all the other valves in the VB. I've been posting on so many transmission threads that I forgot if you put a Trans-go kit in it or not. If so and it came with a modified manual valve it should have came with instructions on how to adjust it. If you didn't replace it and need the factory instructions I can scan it from a service manual and post it. I'm not the best writer so it'd be better for all if I posted what the manual says. Or maybe Kim could explain how to adjust it...
 
thanks Fishy all I did was remove tghe valve body and rebuild the clutch packs and swap the front drum and piston assembly for a billet steel drum and aluminum piston package and I also swapped in the 24 spring return module as well then I re-installed the factory valve body without adding any shift kit , the car makes plenty of power and I don't race it so I just wanted to be safe handling the extra power which is why I went to the red frictions and the custom drum to use the extra friction , please tell me this is something I can adjust with the trans in the car and hopefully without removing the pan , assuming I don't have the shifter so far out of whack that I'm seeing 2 where D should be and not getting all the way into 1 which is what I am hoping for eh lol
 
well I was right about the linkage , undid the bolt and let the rod adjust itself till it was free and unbound then tightened the nut , Voila the shifter hits all the detents and even clicks into place at all of them yeehaa , another small hurdle cleared and to keep the olympic spirit going I just have the big waterjump and a couple of small hurdles left in this steeplechase lol , the big water jump is I still haven't driven it to see if it will shift , the small hurdles are the clip , the cross member , the speedo and possibly the new drive shaft may not have been balanced as I've never seen one with out weights on it before . I am hesitant to attepmt the big water jump of driving it without the clip , I just don't trust masking tape to hold it any further that the end of the drive so I am trying to attach the requested pics here
 

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The shifter being so far out of adjustment may be all it was. That's not the linkage part I thought you needed. Some of those don't even have a extra clip on them and you can probably buy a ball socket at the local auto parts house to replace the entire socket if you don't find it. I've got one here you could have but the problem is shipping. It'd probably take 2 weeks to get to you and cost more 4 shipping than a whole new socket assy.
 
Ah, I see I was thinking it was a different part on the linkage also.
Somebody should have one of those, but you may have to wait for it to be shipped.
If you have a wrecking yard around your area you should be able to find one there, as those ball socket linkages were all over the place in the older cars and trucks.
So what you need is just the outer spring steel shell?
 
oldkimmer said:
......Sorry.......I cant make it this year, will be house boating on the SHUSHWAP....i can throw that piece in the mail 4 ya.............kim......
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There's always next year ,when do you start your vacation ? If I think this thing is right enough for the trip I was thinking I might make a detour your way for a check up if your going to be there.
 
well I ran her up and down the street a couple of times and then 2 blocks down and 2 blocks over and around , if I select the gears manually the car goes faster with each shift but honestly You can only just barely feel it shift and I never got her over 40 so I don't know if it ever even got into 3rd , I don't know if it's the stock valve body combined with the faster shifting of the 24 spring module or if the trans is slipping a little , it's rush hour so I can't get near a highway and don't want too go far till the clip I'm missing comes in tomorrow , the parts guys found a socket with the clip on the mainland and will have it sent over to the island for me tomorrow . Then I need to go through the kick down setup to get it shifting at the right point , I figure / hope thats part of what I'm not feeling I know theres a thread here that explains what the different setup do to the shift points .

PS If I stomp her she smokes em so I think that's a good sign it's not slipping it just feels real soft compared to the 727 boat anchor I pulled out it would shift erratic but real hard like clunk clunk through the gears eh .
 
If the throttle pressure linkage isn't adjusted properly it will shift soft. It not only adjusts the shift points but it affects the firmness a lot. It can even cause it to slip if it's way out of adjustment. I bet once you get it worked out it'll be better but if it's a stock valve body it may not ever shift real firm cause a lot of them were calibrated for cruisers, not performance vehicles.
 
fishy68 said:
I bet once you get it worked out it'll be better but if it's a stock valve body it may not ever shift real firm cause a lot of them were calibrated for cruisers, not performance vehicles.
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And if it does'nt and he wants it to, we can do that real easy.
He might have to find out a little about valve bodies now.:D
 
It does sound like it might.
We'll have to wait till he gets his linkage straightened out and see what he wants out of it.
Next thing ya know he'll be building quality 904's and 727's for Mopar's out of his garage.:prayer:


fishy68 said:
Yep. The mod that you came up with might even do the trick. If he wants more that's easy too.
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Thanks guys no 727's just 904's lol , I am thinking of a valve body which is one of the reasons I am prodding Kimmer about his vacation time , I'll be leaving Victoria friday the 10th assuming I have enough confidence in this trans to make the trip and if I do what I did last year I'll be in Moose Jaw on Sunday morning the 12th so maybe we can get you a little side cash for your vacation fund on like Monday or Tuesday , I ended up burning a day in Kenora and a couple of days in Owen Sound last year so I know I can spare the time , how far off the trans Canada are you and whats the best route { with plenty of good gas stations lol } from say Calgary ?
 
As a side note on the valve body issue I also forgot to mention that I am pushing 524hp and 527 tq through it with a 10 inch 2800 stall converter .so I might be a tad over what the stock was built for eh ? And funny you should mention your little spring mod I copied that page last night hahah
 
DOH, I thought that was pretty much ignored by most.:banghead:

Keep in mind that the spring mod is only good for for later firmer shifts in the low and mid light throttle range, and will do nothing to change the WOT shift timing as that is the governor's job.
I WILL very likely give you a nice little second gear bark though with 525hp under light acceleration.
The valve body changes are really easy if you end up wanting to do it.
Just an adjustment of the mainline pressure valve, block the servo from moving, and a couple of oil passage holes enlarged in the searator plate.

I modded a trans for a guy once that was'nt happy after a stage 2 shiftkit and wanted me to make it nastier.
By the time it was done, the glovebox door would pop open when it hit second from the shock through the body.
Then he was happy.:burnout:

To be honest, I'm a tad flattered that people are using the spring mod.:prayer:


cannucky said:
As a side note on the valve body issue I also forgot to mention that I am pushing 524hp and 527 tq through it with a 10 inch 2800 stall converter .so I might be a tad over what the stock was built for eh ? And funny you should mention your little spring mod I copied that page last night hahah
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I haven't gotten to your mod yet but it is on the list of possibilities , I'm really not looking for big hit shifts , I just want to be sure it's shifting good and not slipping , It's got a 323 rear end and the 245/60/14s making it a great highway cruiser with plenty of power to pass , all that power and torque means it pulls up the side of the Rockies at like 70 mph the way most cars cruise on the flat lands with no effort at all maybe 2800 rpm or so that gives me pretty darn good mileage for a motor this big . is it possible to back flush the whole works if there is a little crud in the governer or the servo ?
 
cannucky said:
is it possible to back flush the whole works if there is a little crud in the governer or the servo ?
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Not really backflush, but the governor can be removed and cleaned.
With the valvebody off and the servo out, you could probably blow out the passages, but it would only be a foot or so of passages.
Usually it works to just let the stuff end up in the pan and then change the fluid and filter. (If nothing sticks that is)
I have had to pull and flush out valve bodies from stuck shift valves if stuff got in them.
 
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