'91 360 for my '73 Swinger?

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tuckinauster

tuckinauster

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Please bear with me as I'm very novice when it comes to the technical aspects of Mopar small blocks.

Anyway, I may have a chance to pick up a 360 out of a '91 Ramcharger with approximately 80k miles. From what I've read these are fairly desirable engines with the swirl ported 308 heads. The current owner says that it ran great when pulled and had intentions of putting it in his Demon, but is going with a big block instead. He's asking $300, which seems to be a pretty fair price if the engine is all that it is talked up to be.

My question is, what should I look for prior to commiting to buy the thing, and will it make a good powerplant for my '73 Swinger in place of the original 318? I want something with a bit more power in stock form that will also be a better platform to build upon later down the road.

All thoughts, opinions and insight is appreciated.
 
Yes, if it has the 308 heads I would take it for $300.

There is something about the oil filter mount on those engines, I believe it was 1991's.

I just recall looking in to getting a short block and up to 1990 were fine but the 91's would not take the 90 degree oil filter adapter. Now if your not using the HP 340 exhaust manifolds or certain style of header pipes, then no problems
 
Should have a roller cam in addition to the 308's. Great engine, should be pretty strong. Keep in mind you'll need a car oil pan and pickup and a new engine mount for the 360.

With 80k miles I'd want to hear it run and see some compression numbers if possible. $300 is a great price, but if you want to drop it in and go I'd want to know that stuff. With 80k you might want to throw a new timing chain on it before you toss it in, especially since you have to drop the pan already.

For reference, I just dropped a '86 truck 318 with 85k into my Duster. I paid $250 for mine. I changed the pan an pickup and installed a new timing chain, which it definitely needed. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to see it run, and it turns out the valve seals and guides are toast. Compression numbers are great, but it smokes because of the seals and guides. So, things to look for.
 
He wants $300 for it, so that more than likely means he will take $200. For that cheap its worth the gamble.

72BluNblu, You also have to remember that the carb engines didnt go near as many miles as a fuel injected motor. Back in the day most engines were rebuilt at 100k.. I've seen non rebuilt 318's and 360's up in the 300-350k range (Some probably higher) All i think they had had was a chain. Also, Valve seals are cheap, if it needs them.
 
67 273 said:
72BluNblu, You also have to remember that the carb engines didnt go near as many miles as a fuel injected motor. Back in the day most engines were rebuilt at 100k.. I've seen non rebuilt 318's and 360's up in the 300-350k range (Some probably higher) All i think they had had was a chain. Also, Valve seals are cheap, if it needs them.
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I'm more than aware of how many miles an engine would go "back in the day", since every car I own has an engine in it that fits that description. And efi vs carb has NOTHING to do with it. Roller cams, better castings, alloys and machining techniques, better quality control etc are what have made the difference. Especially machining and quality control.

I'm also perfectly aware how much valve seals cost, how much valve guides cost, and the time and money needed to swap them. Also note that efi vs carb has no effect on valve guides or seals. And if you're spending $300 on an engine and expecting it to run, you probably don't want to find out that you need to tear the heads down once you've already made the swap.

My point was just to give the OP some things to keep an eye on, because even 80k engines can have a lot wrong with them (my 318 for example). It's very possible that engine can go 300k. It's also possible that its already done, which is why its important to check it out. $300 is basically a core price, but if you need it to run a $300 core doesn't help much.
 
What proof does the seller have that the engine only has 80k miles on it? Probably none. Pull the valve covers and see if its all gummed up in there from not changing oil. If he can get it on a stand pull the oil pan off and look up into the bores. Look for scoring and scrapes. At 80k miles those bores should still look great. Maybe pull a main cap and look at bearings. Are they all scored up or nice and smooth? Do not flip the engine upside down before pulling pan; if you do anything laying in that pan will now be up in the cylinders or cam shaft area. Keep the engine upright.

$300 is a good price for that engine even if it needs a little freshening up.
 
340sFastback said:
What proof does the seller have that the engine only has 80k miles on it? Probably none. Pull the valve covers and see if its all gummed up in there from not changing oil. If he can get it on a stand pull the oil pan off and look up into the bores. Look for scoring and scrapes. At 80k miles those bores should still look great. Maybe pull a main cap and look at bearings. Are they all scored up or nice and smooth? Do not flip the engine upside down before pulling pan; if you do anything laying in that pan will now be up in the cylinders or cam shaft area. Keep the engine upright.

$300 is a good price for that engine even if it needs a little freshening up.
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The seller said that the truck he pulled it from had 80k on it at the time... Obviously I'll take that with a grain of salt.

I can probably have him put it on an engine stand to check the bores and at the very least, pull the valve covers. I don't think I'll be able to hear it run though.

I'm not in any super big hurry to swap the motor in my car. My 318 runs fine for now, and I need to sell some stuff first to supplement my toy fund. I just want to make sure I do it right the first time.
 
my 91 dodge truck 360 had throttle body injection on it...no carb..
 
67 273 said:
So.. Did you end up getting it?
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Nope. At the moment I have one too many irons in the fire to take on another project and I think the money could be better spent on other areas of my car right now.

I do want to thank you all for the advice though. I now have a better idea what to look for when it comes time for a new engine.
 
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