A 373 Stroker?

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aquapimp said:
** please note that although price is obviously important, I'd rather spend 7k and be thrilled, than 5K and be bummed! My dream was to build a 340 for the dart, but I have been kinda talked out of it due to the 340's desire to be a high revving engine and not a torque monster. I plan on taking the car to the track only a couple times a year. looking for a reliable, 400 HP/TQ street engine on pump gas.
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I got a 340 that I am pretty sure you would be happy with, heck it pulls great but gets 8 mpg. You need 3.91 or 4.10 gears and a 10 inch converter. Idles pretty good, gets 13-14 inchs of vacuum @ 900 rpms and pulls right to 6,000 with shifting around 6,500 rpm.

Nothing wrong about revving a 340 up, I run two high flow Edelbrock mufflers on each pipe to keep the noise down. Very easy to drive--and stop thanks in part to the 3.91 gears. Using the 1970 hp exhaust manifolds and two 500 Carters on an old Edelbrock D66 intake.

Next spring I believe a solid cam will be going in, lol.
 
aquapimp said:
well, I went over to the local racer's house last night, and was pretty blown away by the Moparage! '69 440 GTX, '64 Max Wedge Coronet, '70 Duster drag car, '69 440 Charger, '79 Lil Red Express... WOW!

Despite some of the best advice on the planet given to me, I just could not pass up the 340.

The fact that it is a local, virgin, Standard bore, unmolested block, and CAME OUT OF A '69 car. was just too much to walk away from.

So, the learning needs to continue.

Thanks so much guys, now, anyone point me in the direction of good 340 street builds?

Tom
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Heck I take a 340 block over many 360 blocks, why use those too large of main bearings anyhow?

If you need a crank you might be best with a 360 crank ground on 340 mains. I feel 4 inch stroke is too much to last with daily use.

I got a found a nice forged factory 3.31 crank and went with that but was thinking of going China.

U won't be disappointed if you build it right. I would use 3.21 gears or better. 3.55's are nice. If an auto trans, spend around $500 and get a nice 10 inch torque converter. Mine pulls 3rd gear at 1,500 and I need to keep my foot on the brake at a stop or it creep forward. Feels tight until its pushed.

I got some J heads listed on here in need of a rebuild, would work fine or go Edelbrock but get them prep first, Hughes sells new Edelbrock heads they went through and corrected all of Edelbrock machining errors, lol..like too tight of valve guilds which can punch a hole in a piston.
 
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