A Body Frame Connectors

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my 62's is like it's made out of tin foil.. prolly why they weight nothing
 
It is surprising how light th 65 and older B bodies are.
yeah, my title lists 3025, with a poly and that 80# intake.. curious with the LA and alum heads/intake...

Got the pieces to do my torque boxes also.. gonna do that after the car is mobile..
 
Subframe connectors are great. I don't know that I would suggest putting on the USCT ones unless you're either a masochist or have the car totally blown apart.

I have the hotchkis ones and it really stiffened up the car. The door used to rattle on bumps and no longer did immediately after that. Plus you can install them in maybe 3-4 hrs and there isn't much fitting to them.
 
Subframe connectors are great. I don't know that I would suggest putting on the USCT ones unless you're either a masochist or have the car totally blown apart.

I have the hotchkis ones and it really stiffened up the car. The door used to rattle on bumps and no longer did immediately after that. Plus you can install them in maybe 3-4 hrs and there isn't much fitting to them.

Its like anything in Hotrodding Goldduster, It takes some patience and some preplanning.

I agree that they install way easier without floors in the way but, I did mine after putting the new floors in.

We put the frame connectors in place and then cut and adjusted them to fit. One thing to remember is to cut access for the handbrake cable and the fuel lines before final weld.

For what its worth, USCT makes excellent products, service is great and price was ok.
 
ut the frame connectors in place and then cut and adjusted them to fit. One thing to remember is to cut access for the handbrake cable and the fuel lines before final weld.
I moved my emergency brake cable in board and ran custom brake and fuel lines inside of connectors. That way stuff aint zig zagging under there. But extra work making custom fuel and brake lines wasn't easy.



PXL_20240216_235936745.jpg
 
Its like anything in Hotrodding Goldduster, It takes some patience and some preplanning.

I agree that they install way easier without floors in the way but, I did mine after putting the new floors in.

We put the frame connectors in place and then cut and adjusted them to fit. One thing to remember is to cut access for the handbrake cable and the fuel lines before final weld.

For what its worth, USCT makes excellent products, service is great and price was ok.
Trust me, there's probably few people on here that did more projects that take patience and pre-planning - MPFI, 6-speed swap, Classic auto air, etc... this one just doesn't seem worth the extra effort compared to the other options.

Most of the other frame connectors you just pop the front parking brake cable out, drill a hole a little higher, put it back in and adjust and the rest fits fine, including the fuel and brake lines.

That little bit of extra vertical height and being tied directly to the floor is minor, and the USCT ones are open on the top. I don't know the wall thickness but what you're doing is resisting twist by having a 3D shape with that or a tube. The time for fitting for tolerances and doing about 8x as much welding for minimal to no gain. My friend and I were discussing this for his '71 Demon that he's going to be doing some rally cross with.

I have the USCT inner fender braces (which I might not be able to use due to the big tires) and the torque boxes. Just need to get around to putting them on.
 
Trust me, there's probably few people on here that did more projects that take patience and pre-planning - MPFI, 6-speed swap, Classic auto air, etc... this one just doesn't seem worth the extra effort compared to the other options.

Most of the other frame connectors you just pop the front parking brake cable out, drill a hole a little higher, put it back in and adjust and the rest fits fine, including the fuel and brake lines.

That little bit of extra vertical height and being tied directly to the floor is minor, and the USCT ones are open on the top. I don't know the wall thickness but what you're doing is resisting twist by having a 3D shape with that or a tube. The time for fitting for tolerances and doing about 8x as much welding for minimal to no gain. My friend and I were discussing this for his '71 Demon that he's going to be doing some rally cross with.

I have the USCT inner fender braces (which I might not be able to use due to the big tires) and the torque boxes. Just need to get around to putting them on.

Understand, all good.

I was looking for a particular look as well as functionality.

USCT fit the bill for me.

I've got a ton of patience so no big deal with taking more time to fit them tight to the floor pan. These connectors are heavy and very well built. Without them . jacking the car up towards the front or rear resulted in the doors not opening and closing properly. That disappeared after I installed them. I'm betting its the same with any frame connector. Torque boxes are a must and, USCT makes a very strong lower rad support that also helps rigidity.

BTW.. do you have any posts on here with your MPFI ??

Now that sounds interesting!!

Cheers!!
 
Trust me, there's probably few people on here that did more projects that take patience and pre-planning - MPFI, 6-speed swap, Classic auto air, etc... this one just doesn't seem worth the extra effort compared to the other options.

Most of the other frame connectors you just pop the front parking brake cable out, drill a hole a little higher, put it back in and adjust and the rest fits fine, including the fuel and brake lines.

That little bit of extra vertical height and being tied directly to the floor is minor, and the USCT ones are open on the top. I don't know the wall thickness but what you're doing is resisting twist by having a 3D shape with that or a tube. The time for fitting for tolerances and doing about 8x as much welding for minimal to no gain. My friend and I were discussing this for his '71 Demon that he's going to be doing some rally cross with.

I have the USCT inner fender braces (which I might not be able to use due to the big tires) and the torque boxes. Just need to get around to putting them on.
Yeah I tacked mine to floor like every half inch then ran panel bond along the seam to seal them. They are difficult to weld on unless your car is on a rotisserie. I had a new full floor so at least I was welding new metal to new metal. The appeal for me was the clean factory like look.

US Car Tool connectors are 12 gauge. Factory frame rails are 14 gauge.
 
Other thing that surprised me is the US Car Tool connectors fit the new AMD full floor with very little grinding. Was not expecting that at all

PXL_20230706_154823901.jpg
 
Yeah I tacked mine to floor like every half inch then ran panel bond along the seam to seal them. They are difficult to weld on unless your car is on a rotisserie. I had a new full floor so at least I was welding new metal to new metal. The appeal for me was the clean factory like look.

US Car Tool connectors are 12 gauge. Factory frame rails are 14 gauge.

BTW.. What trans are you using??
 
Other thing that surprised me is the US Car Tool connectors fit the new AMD full floor with very little grinding. Was not expecting that at all

View attachment 1716230167

Trans listed with your avatar....

Eyes aren't what they used to be LOL !!

Also put in a full floor panel from AMD.

Found the same thing as you when fitting connectors.
 
Understand, all good.

I was looking for a particular look as well as functionality.

USCT fit the bill for me.

I've got a ton of patience so no big deal with taking more time to fit them tight to the floor pan. These connectors are heavy and very well built. Without them . jacking the car up towards the front or rear resulted in the doors not opening and closing properly. That disappeared after I installed them. I'm betting its the same with any frame connector. Torque boxes are a must and, USCT makes a very strong lower rad support that also helps rigidity.

BTW.. do you have any posts on here with your MPFI ??

Now that sounds interesting!!

Cheers!!
Yeah, I can jack up my very well used/high mileage car and the doors open and shut exactly the same and the gaps do not change whatsoever. One of these years I need to actually rebuild the hinges so it's right and fix the solidly welded striker but this car is in the 260-270k mile range as far as I know. Someone DD'd it until the year 2000 from new in NE Florida.

This is the MPFI topic from 2015. MS3 Pro Sequential Injection + Coil near plug conversion thread I haven't had any issues whatsover. This year I am doing the Power Tour Long Haul with it for the ultimate test.
 
Yeah, I can jack up my very well used/high mileage car and the doors open and shut exactly the same and the gaps do not change whatsoever. One of these years I need to actually rebuild the hinges so it's right and fix the solidly welded striker but this car is in the 260-270k mile range as far as I know. Someone DD'd it until the year 2000 from new in NE Florida.

This is the MPFI topic from 2015. MS3 Pro Sequential Injection + Coil near plug conversion thread I haven't had any issues whatsover. This year I am doing the Power Tour Long Haul with it for the ultimate test.

Very impressive setup for MPFI.

I've got a few questions but I'll contact you via your thread on it so I don't hi-jack this one.

Cheers!!
 
Ordered a set of USCT’s for my coupe yesterday. I’ll post my installation when I’m done. Info here helped me to decide what to buy.
 
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