A Little Electrical (House) Help Please....
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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Oh yeah. I gotta nice Fluke.
OneOfMany
Well-Known Member
If there is two circuits, the proper way would be to use two separate single gang boxes with one in and one out. I know it sucks, but cutting a rectangular drywall patch from stud to stud is probably your best choice. Especially if you want the boxes supported. You can then screw a crib board to mount the boxes to.
Like rust. Sometimes taking a bigger piece out is easier to patch
Like rust. Sometimes taking a bigger piece out is easier to patch
Cuda416
Well-Known Member
That's not allowed for line voltage/current. That's for low voltage only, like network cabling.
I believe code requires complete enclosure of the wiring and device to prevent sparks etc from entering the wall and smoldering, causing a fire.
Yeah I thought about that. I've already done something similar in the bedroom next to this bathroom.
With that said.....
My mom lives in a house built in 1966 and nothing is grounded (2 prong receps).
We have never lost any piece of electrical equipment or electronics due to lightning or surges in that house.
(and I've had tons of audio equipment and computers in that house) (and let me tell ya...lightning strikes and surges happen in FL on a monthly, if not weekly basis)
Are those things related?
IDK. Just making a statement of fact.
My mom lives in a house built in 1966 and nothing is grounded (2 prong receps).
We have never lost any piece of electrical equipment or electronics due to lightning or surges in that house.
(and I've had tons of audio equipment and computers in that house) (and let me tell ya...lightning strikes and surges happen in FL on a monthly, if not weekly basis)
Are those things related?
IDK. Just making a statement of fact.
OneOfMany
Well-Known Member
I think that is more coincidental. The third ground prong may be used by the device maker as a safety ground in case either the line or load wire shorts to the housing of the unit, especially metal, causing the device casing to become energized. This is to prevent you from becoming the ground when touching it.
Both the load (white) and bare/green are grounds, but the Copper will only become one in a short. The theory is that the Copper ground is never broken from the panel to the last device on the circuit as it is not broken even if a device fails, or an outlet or switch is removed upstream.
Both the load (white) and bare/green are grounds, but the Copper will only become one in a short. The theory is that the Copper ground is never broken from the panel to the last device on the circuit as it is not broken even if a device fails, or an outlet or switch is removed upstream.
I did a quick diagram to show how you can safely install a new box and new switches into the existing hole provided you have clearance to your exterior wall behind the drywall and you use the home depot blue box with ears.
I have wired many a subdivision worth of houses in my years as an electrician, and this would be the way we used to do it before the newest codes, (which are ridiculous).
I have wired many a subdivision worth of houses in my years as an electrician, and this would be the way we used to do it before the newest codes, (which are ridiculous).
This is helping. Thanks. All I have to do now is ohm out which circuit is which and mark them. I already know which circuit is coming in from the panel. Also, I'm not 100% SURE the GFCI is in this mess. It probably is. lol
I have a HAIR over 4" in that wall for a box. You think that's enough?
Well good. Thank you. That gives me more options than these bullshitter blade style switches. These things are JUNK.
They are meant to be used where no boxes and no external connections in wall are allowed. All electrical junctions are under the stupid little plastic cover. A word of warning, don't pull the wire into the box and expect to pull it back out, the sheathing will be damaged unless you pry up the little tabs. You will have to break the tabs loose so they will pivot when you slide a wire in. Plan on making the 6 switch wires too long out of 14 gauge new wire. Arrange the wire nuts and smash them to the back of the box, then trim the switch jumpers to 4-6 inches outside the wall before installing switches. Plenty of yoo-toob videos probably exist if you get stuck, or pm me for my phone number. LOL
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