A post for the alcohol pollutes your oil crew.

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pittsburghracer

pittsburghracer

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This engine is on its second year, third year in the car as I was sick in 2021. I pulled a valve cover off for the first time this year to check my valve lash. I changed my oil at the end of last season and have added a quart. Look how clean the valve cover and inside of head is. If you learn to run alcohol properly you won’t trash the oil like many guys do. Ohhh no vaccine pump like many say you have to run either.

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The correct oil (Group III synthetic), hot engine coolant (is that an oxymoron?????) and keeping oil temps up keep the oil clean and dry.

Which helps like crazy with ring seal. If you are packing the oil with alcohol the ring seal goes to hell right quick.
 
Rat Bastid said:
The correct oil (Group III synthetic), hot engine coolant (is that an oxymoron?????) and keeping oil temps up keep the oil clean and dry.

Which helps like crazy with ring seal. If you are packing the oil with alcohol the ring seal goes to hell right quick.
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I’ve been using Penn Grade oil for over 40 years through at least three name changes, maybe four. A lot of my friends jump on the bandwagon for every new oil on the market but I stay put.
 
I'm curious what ignition and spark plugs are you using and what do the plugs look like when your'e running that clean?
 
pittsburghracer said:
This engine is on its second year, third year in the car as I was sick in 2021. I pulled a valve cover off for the first time this year to check my valve lash. I changed my oil at the end of last season and have added a quart. Look how clean the valve cover and inside of head is. If you learn to run alcohol properly you won’t trash the oil like many guys do. Ohhh no vaccine pump like many say you have to run either.

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Does the vaccine pump protect against covid corrosion? :)
 
Garrett Ellison said:
I'm curious what ignition and spark plugs are you using and what do the plugs look like when your'e running that clean?
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Sorry I missed this post

MSD 7AL
MSD pro power coil
Morosso blue max spiral core wires
Autolite AR3911 plugs

I ran AR3922’s in my pump gas engine before I switched to alcohol
 
pittsburghracer said:
Sorry I missed this post

MSD 7AL
MSD pro power coil
Morosso blue max spiral core wires
Autolite AR3911 plugs

I ran AR3922’s in my pump gas engine before I switched to alcohol
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Ohh and plugs look ok. I had this set in my old 422 for four months so I reused them in this engine
 
PBR, you say if you learn how to do it properly you don't have issues.... but don't mention the proper way.. I will never run alch but am a curious boy.. what is the secret?
I see guys saying you have to have a second pump with normal fuel to run through and get the motor hot to burn out any bad **** in the oil and clean out any alcohol in the system normally..

P.S. i have also seen those guys pull valve covers off and it looks like a mcdonalds shake machine exploded in there
 
Icetech said:
PBR, you say if you learn how to do it properly you don't have issues.... but don't mention the proper way.. I will never run alch but am a curious boy.. what is the secret?
I see guys saying you have to have a second pump with normal fuel to run through and get the motor hot to burn out any bad **** in the oil and clean out any alcohol in the system normally..

P.S. i have also seen those guys pull valve covers off and it looks like a mcdonalds shake machine exploded in there
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I did a post on running alcohol awhile ago but I’ll hit on it again.

Unlike race gas heat is your friend, not your enemy. When I get to the track and unload I’ll try to take a ride around the track using my lean-out valve, fan, and water pump to get it as close to 200 degrees as I can to let the engine heat soak. My lean out valve is simply a 3/8 hose fitting in my one inch spacer or rear of manifold with 3/8 rubber line running to a 1/2 ball valve by my shifter. Opening this up assists in building heat by leaning out the engine. The guy I buy my alcohol from adds upper end lube to my barrel when I pick it up. This helps lubricate the engine. I run a BG400 pump and number 10 black fiber line to a tee then two number 8 lines to the carb. My carb manufacturer of choice is APD. Using my water pump I get my heat up to 170 degrees before heading for the water box. By time I hit the time slip booth my water pump and fan it turned off for my drive to my pit spot and not turned on till im
Heading up for my next pass. Heading into winter after race season I fog my engine with transmission fluid slowly dumping it into the carb while it’s running. I go through my carb every spring and change out my carb floats every one to two years max. After two years of racing like I do they will be fuel soaked before the third year. Jetting is probably your most important area. I have O2’s on my RacePak from my pump gas years but egt’s tell the story with alcohol. Readings during a pass will be over 1100 degrees. Any lower and you are rich. Rich kills your oil and engine. My son ran alcohol three years before me as I said I would never run it. He taught me a lot. Any other questions let her rip.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I did a post on running alcohol awhile ago but I’ll hit on it again.

Unlike race gas heat is your friend, not your enemy. When I get to the track and unload I’ll try to take a ride around the track using my lean-out valve, fan, and water pump to get it as close to 200 degrees as I can to let the engine heat soak. My lean out valve is simply a 3/8 hose fitting in my one inch spacer or rear of manifold with 3/8 rubber line running to a 1/2 ball valve by my shifter. Opening this up assists in building heat by leaning out the engine. The guy I buy my alcohol from adds upper end lube to my barrel when I pick it up. This helps lubricate the engine. I run a BG400 pump and number 10 black fiber line to a tee then two number 8 lines to the carb. My carb manufacturer of choice is APD. Using my water pump I get my heat up to 170 degrees before heading for the water box. By time I hit the time slip booth my water pump and fan it turned off for my drive to my pit spot and not turned on till im
Heading up for my next pass. Heading into winter after race season I fog my engine with transmission fluid slowly dumping it into the carb while it’s running. I go through my carb every spring and change out my carb floats every one to two years max. After two years of racing like I do they will be fuel soaked before the third year. Jetting is probably your most important area. I have O2’s on my RacePak from my pump gas years but egt’s tell the story with alcohol. Readings during a pass will be over 1100 degrees. Any lower and you are rich. Rich kills your oil and engine. My son ran alcohol three years before me as I said I would never run it. He taught me a lot. Any other questions let her rip.
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K.. adding lube to the barrel is genius, i hadn't heard of that.... And i see guys that run NPK (the normal guys not the super rich ones) that are literally changing oil after every race cause it's just milky garbage, those guys are also running 30+ psi of boost though.. harsh environment. And thanks for sharing that technique.. i figured heat would be part of it, a buddy of mine was a engineer at GM and explained once to me how people take short trips (like me) all the time and never burn the bad **** out of their oil so it doesn't last as long..
 
Icetech said:
K.. adding lube to the barrel is genius, i hadn't heard of that.... And i see guys that run NPK (the normal guys not the super rich ones) that are literally changing oil after every race cause it's just milky garbage, those guys are also running 30+ psi of boost though.. harsh environment. And thanks for sharing that technique.. i figured heat would be part of it, a buddy of mine was a engineer at GM and explained once to me how people take short trips (like me) all the time and never burn the bad **** out of their oil so it doesn't last as long..
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Some guys Dont run a lube so he always asks me if I want it added. I’ve never seen or heard of an issue with running it but I’m sure some guys thinking is if 8 ounces is good 16 ounces is way better. Lol. Sometimes the drums (plastic) are blue and sometimes frosted where you can see the level and it stays mixed well.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Some guys Dont run a lube so he always asks me if I want it added. I’ve never seen or heard of an issue with running it but I’m sure some guys thinking is if 8 ounces is good 16 ounces is way better. Lol. Sometimes the drums (plastic) are blue and sometimes frosted where you can see the level and it stays mixed well.
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Lube is rarely a bad thing.. make it look like a 2 stroke on overkill :)
 
I’ve ran methanol for a four years now and I’ve never had a problem with milky oil. When I took my valve covers off this spring to set the valves they were clean as clean can be.

I run M5 methanol which has upper lube so I don’t have to add any. All I add is blueberry sent and good to go.

I have a 1/2” plate to run gas under the toilet that is for warming up engine and also after the pass I switch back to gas which gets the engine nice and warm to burn off any methanol let over from the nozzles.

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red440 said:
Kendall still in biz ?
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Not as a company, but the name lives on as a product of Conoco-Phillips. It's been bought and sold at least three times since it was an independent company. All of those traditional, old-name lube company logos you see on modern oils have no relation to their origins except the logos themselves.
 
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