A quick question about POR15 and drip rail.

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TrailBeast

TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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I have never used POR15 before but it says "Can be applied directly to metal and rust". (It's rust encapsulator)
I noticed a crack in the caulking right about the center of the window on the passenger side so I pulled up the loose section about 6 inches long to see what I was dealing with.
The metal under it seems to be bare steel and has very slight rust in the corners where the roof and rail meet. (Mostly just discolored like rust but no damage)

Would there be any reason I couldn't remove the caulking and coat that area with the POR15 and then just repaint down in the gutter instead of putting caulking back in there?

Thanks all.
 
Great choice on rust treatment! No, I can't think of why you actually need to reinstall caulk in that gutter. The POR 15 will protect the steel from rusting. I'm not sure why there is caulk there in the first place.
 
I'm not crazy about POR15 and I have used it a good bit. Mostly applying it for other people. First, it's messy. It gets everywhere. It's runny as all hell and you will end up havin POR15 on your nutsack. Don't ask me how it gets there. I have no clue. Under your armpits. Tween your toes. It gets places you'll wish it never did.

Also, UV light degrades it over time. Of course, if you paint over it (as POR15 recommends) this isn't an issue. It works. There are simply cheaper, better and easier things to apply out there, IMO. I like the oil based Rustoleum. When it's applied right, it will last just as long as POR15 and is just as tough. Plus, instead of 100 bucks a gallon, it's 27 bucks a gallon at the Home Depot. It's your money.
 
I believe the seam sealer or caulk is there because that is where the roof pieces are spot welded together. I would be afraid of a leak if I didn't replace the sealer.
 
POR-15 will not hold up. You have to paint over it when it's still tacky, or scuff it. It does not scuff easy. I have never had any luck, on any place in a vehicle, with it, following all their instructions to a tee, and using all their products that are recommended, to prep for it. It's a high priced hyped up product.

You would be better off repairing your gutter/seam the proper way. Get all the rust out. Use epoxy primer, and a good quality seam sealer, such as Lord Fusor in the 800 series, then paint it, with your colour.

Just my opinion. barracudadave67
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's runny as all hell and you will end up havin POR15 on your nutsack. Don't ask me how it gets there. I have no clue. Under your armpits. Tween your toes. It gets places you'll wish it never did.
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:D Like my brother says about that black Henry's roof sealant.
"You get a little on your shoe, and the next thing you know it's in your hair".
I'm pretty good with messy products, so I'm not to worried about that.
I plan on taping off the places where it may get away from me, and plan on using un thinned Rustolium down in the groove over the POR and then spray the rest of the roof after.
There are only a few spots anywhere else that I need the POR so I just got a quart. (Still expensive stuff)



vitamindart said:
I believe the seam sealer or caulk is there because that is where the roof pieces are spot welded together. I would be afraid of a leak if I didn't replace the sealer.
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I wondered about this also, but I think between the POR and a good thick coat of paint it should be ok. (unless body flex could be an issue causing the stuff to crack)
If it does, it's not a huge deal to redo it.
 
Seam sealer definitely. The roof flexes too much, that stiff coat of POR-15 will crack right out. Use a quality 1k urethane such as UPOL Tigerseal or 3m Ultrapro. None of that lame Fast n' Firm.
 
TrailBeast said:
I have never used POR15 before but it says "Can be applied directly to metal and rust". (It's rust encapsulator)
I noticed a crack in the caulking right about the center of the window on the passenger side so I pulled up the loose section about 6 inches long to see what I was dealing with.
The metal under it seems to be bare steel and has very slight rust in the corners where the roof and rail meet. (Mostly just discolored like rust but no damage)

Would there be any reason I couldn't remove the caulking and coat that area with the POR15 and then just repaint down in the gutter instead of putting caulking back in there?

Thanks all.
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Thats what I did on mine and mine had a vinly top and nastiness. Taked care of the encapsulation. They just make sure to put more sealer in to replace what you dug out.
 
Ok, so if I was a newb and didn't have a clue what I was doing where would I be?

So far we have "it should be fine" and "definitely not" and a few somewhere in between.
 
TrailBeast said:
Ok, so if I was a newb and didn't have a clue what I was doing where would I be?

So far we have "it should be fine" and "definitely not" and a few somewhere in between.
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You have had one person say "I'm not sure why there is caulk there in the first place."

The rest of us have told you that you need seam sealer.


So here is what I want you to do. Take 2 pieces of rusty sheet metal and spot weld them together.

After they are firmly together, I want you to remove all of the rust between the two pieces.

If you find this easy and fun, go ahead and skip the seam sealer.
 
Lets be clear about something. (In my best Obama voice). "Encapsulation" is a made up, bullshit hyped up marketing word. There's nothing special about it. All it means is to encase something. When you prime and paint properly, you have just encapsulated what you painted. There's nothing any different the POR15 is doing that properly applied paint will not. If you believe that, then cat **** is the new miracle health food. I can hook you up.

And yes, as others have tried to tell you, use seam sealer.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
You have had one person say "I'm not sure why there is caulk there in the first place."

The rest of us have told you that you need seam sealer.


So here is what I want you to do. Take 2 pieces of rusty sheet metal and spot weld them together.

After they are firmly together, I want you to remove all of the rust between the two pieces.

If you find this easy and fun, go ahead and skip the seam sealer.
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Yep, you are right, sorry.
It is the overwhelming oppinion that I use seam sealer.
 
So what have we learned? Use seam sealer. And if you ever do use POR-15, wear gloves no matter what, and avoid scratching your nuts.
 
72Dodge said:
So what have we learned? Use seam sealer. And if you ever do use POR-15, wear gloves no matter what, and avoid scratching your nuts.
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:D Cheech and Chong? and have someone else do it.

What we have learned is most everyone says we have to use it.
If the paint over it doesn't crack, then what?
 
POR 15 is great stuff but there is a better and cheaper way. If the caulking is coming off you will want to replace it all. There is a pinch weld there and caulking is a must. You will need to take out all the old caulking. Once you do this, mask off the driprail molding and also run some tape on the roof close to the edge of the old caulking. You may want to double up on the tape. Use a piece of sandpaper or scotch brite pad in the gutter to remove any old caulking or any surface rust. make sure the gutter is clean. Use a wax and greese remover to remove any contaminants. Once the gutter is clean, use a good quality 2k direct to metal primer or epoxy. You can apply it with a small brush. It will need to dry for about 12 hrs. At this point you will want to re mask the driprail molding and roof. You should also put a peice of tape over both ends of the driprail so nothing can drip out. Next use a brush to put on a good quality seam sealer, you will want to put on 2-3 coats. wait until each coat drys before you put on the next coat. You can paint over most seam sealers so no need to use a primer to top coat. Try to get the last coat of seam sealer on as smooth as possible. Take your time and don't rush in between each step...Hope this helps.
 
gunmetal72 said:
POR 15 is great stuff but there is a better and cheaper way. If the caulking is coming off you will want to replace it all. There is a pinch weld there and caulking is a must. You will need to take out all the old caulking. Once you do this, mask off the driprail molding and also run some tape on the roof close to the edge of the old caulking. You may want to double up on the tape. Use a piece of sandpaper or scotch brite pad in the gutter to remove any old caulking or any surface rust. make sure the gutter is clean. Use a wax and greese remover to remove any contaminants. Once the gutter is clean, use a good quality 2k direct to metal primer or epoxy. You can apply it with a small brush. It will need to dry for about 12 hrs. At this point you will want to re mask the driprail molding and roof. You should also put a peice of tape over both ends of the driprail so nothing can drip out. Next use a brush to put on a good quality seam sealer, you will want to put on 2-3 coats. wait until each coat drys before you put on the next coat. You can paint over most seam sealers so no need to use a primer to top coat. Try to get the last coat of seam sealer on as smooth as possible. Take your time and don't rush in between each step...Hope this helps.
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Thank you.
 
^^ If all answers were put this simple, most threads on FABO would be a lot shorter! :D
Well put. Thanx Gunmetal.
 
Dang. Forgot I was using the "search" mode!! So now I accidentally "zombified" a thread!! Lol
 
gdrill said:
^^ If all answers were put this simple, most threads on FABO would be a lot shorter! :D
Well put. Thanx Gunmetal.
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Agreed George.

Greg, I used por15 on my k frame, but the frame hasnt been installed in the car. I have heard about fading from UV, but I think I read about an "updated" version??
I can tell you that the **** went on like glass and looks great. I used AT MOST 1/8 cup to do my k frame and none on my nuts. Wear gloves if you ever use the stuff....
 
How long has the original caulk been in there? Probably as long as you've been alive. And how well did it protect the metal under there? I'd remove any rust you find, neutralize the rust with whatever your favorite product is, and re-caulk it.
 
por15 works good, but they require you to first 1. degrease the item (using their recommended product or maybe not) 2. apply this pretreatment acid stuff, that you have to wipe off 3. apply the por15

it's a pain in the butt. and like others have said, i got that **** on my hands and it says right on the can there is no known solvent. took 3 days of scrubbin to get it off.
 
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