A833 + clutch question : 68 318 engine

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j par said:
Maybe I'm confused (likely) but I'm sure my 69 - made for 1970 a body a833 has the larger 727 slip yoke ?
and agreed the machine shop drilled holes and ground like crazy on my diaphragm clutch to get it to balance.
since then I've changed both flywheel and clutch and have noticed no difference. But next winter break I'll address all that and likely change clutch again. The op is talking street car with street tires? Wouldn't a diaphragm clutch be a better daily driver ?
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The only thing a diaphragm pressure plate is good for is the manufacturers. They are much cheaper to produce. They are not better to drive. That stupid Centerforce counter weight system is a POS. All you have to do is balance 1 of them, and you would tell everyone to stay away.


The biggest issue is they are not adjustable. I don't know anyone who would buy a nonadjustable carb, but a nonadjustable clutch is thought of as trick.

Marketing works.
 
Marcohotrod said:
there is a difference between a pressure plate and a big chevy flexplate and a powerglide car does not have a flywheel. pressure plates-clutch cars-are balanced neutral at the manufacturer. when it is bolted to a flywheel there can be some slight error. so when we balance an assembly we suggest a pressure plate is with it and we spray paint a line on the pieces. most mere mortals do not rebalance when a clutch assembly is replaced-and do not need to. try to buy a replacement pressure plate made in USA
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So I have retread this nightmare of a paragraph. You seem to have balanced a crank. So let's take this apart. Maybe someone will learn something, and will save some money or broken parts.


If you take a flywheel, and put it on a mandrel so you can spin it. All by itself. The manufacturer called it neutral balance. I can tell you, I have NEVER seen a FW that is less than 20 grams out. 20, that is crap, especially considering you are PAYING for a balanced assembly. So you screw with it until it is now about 2 grams out. No crank will ever notice 2 grams.

Now, bolt your "internally balanced" pressure plate on the FW and watch what happens. You'll be lucky if you are less than the original 20 grams out, and it won't be out in the same spot. It NEVER is. So you either have to make more holes in the heavy side of the FW, or add weight to the light side of the pressure plate.


Now go get another pressure plate, from the same company, even from the same lot. I GD promise you the balance job will be off, AGAIN.

Once you get through all that, bolt all that crap back on the crank. It will AGAIN, be out of balance. Every time.

The correct procedure is to get both ends of the crank close, put the FW on and check it. If it's close, you can bolt the pressure plate on and see where you are. You can rotate the pressure plate to get it as close as you can.

But no matter what, if it's done correctly, you will have a balance assembly. And if you PAID for it and didn't get it, that's on you.

So marcohotrod, you are WRONG.
 
66fs said:
68 Road Runners and other "B" body HP engines through 67-69 used the 143 tooth flywheels.
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Sorry, I thought we were talking teeners.

I drive street, and I still really,really, like my diaphragm pressure plate.I have two B&Bs here,low mileage, on the spare parts shelf. I'd have to be really really, broke to return one of them to service.
But yeah, the flyweight system occasionally sticks, no biggie for me.
 
hey yellow- the O.P. asked why do I need to give the shop a pressure plate for balancing, and I said we suggest U do so. then U read WRONG going on a rant thinking about me posting flywheels are all neutral balanced-when I posted pressure plates are supposed to be neutral. I do not manufacture pressure plates. your flywheel rant to me was wrong
 
So with your feedback, I can decide between the McLeod Clutch StreetPro kit + a flywheel, but that clutch kit is with a diaphragm.

If I want tot have a B/B pressure plate, I need to order everything separately as follows :

Pressure plate

Clutch disc organic/ceramic (one is enough?)

Steel flywheel

Throwout bearing

And the clutch alignment tool.

Is that all correct? I am getting closer to something good?
 
yotah1 said:
So with your feedback, I can decide between the McLeod Clutch StreetPro kit + a flywheel, but that clutch kit is with a diaphragm.

If I want tot have a B/B pressure plate, I need to order everything separately as follows :

Pressure plate

Clutch disc organic/ceramic (one is enough?)

Steel flywheel

Throwout bearing

And the clutch alignment tool.

Is that all correct? I am getting closer to something good?
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So I just looked at the pressure plate. That is just the Borg&Beck pressure plate. You want the exact same thing, except it uses a Long style finger in it. I'll look in the A M and see if I can find you a part number.

Last time I went to ththe McLeod site I gave up and called them. Let me see what I can find.
 
Ok, so I'm faster than I thought.

You want a part number 360903. Double check but that SHOULD be a Borg & Beck/Long style cover with 2200 pounds of base pressure.

That is what I'd use.
 
And I would use a 100 series disc. I don't know the exact part number, but I'm not a fan of the dual friction discs.
 
yellow rose said:
And I would use a 100 series disc. I don't know the exact part number, but I'm not a fan of the dual friction discs.
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I ran a dual friction on the street,for one summer, and have to agree.Not a fan.
It hooks just too hard, and breaks stuff.I only have a 367 cuber, but that CFII broke a lot of stuff. I switched to a Chrysler 340 organic and stopped breaking stuff.Well except the disc became the fuse. Still discs are way cheaper than trannys,driveshafts and u-joints.Now it just spits out the springs.
 
Pressure plate changed and organic clutch disc changed too. Thanks guys, ordering in progress, thanks for helping me spend my money wisely :p
 
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