A833 shifter plate removal.

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clementine

clementine

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Hello FaBo,
I a.m. switching out the shifter plate to the 6350 version and the old one is frozen on the tail housing. I have broken one Allen socket deal and have compromised two of the three Allen head, not beyond total usage... but pretty close. My plan is using a little propane heat on the tail housing and hitting it with a little WD 40 a couple times, then heat it and try the bolts again or tap on the plate a little.

Seem like the right path?

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Don’t be afraid to shock the bolts. PB blaster on the bolts and then wack the adapter with a wood block and a hammer a bit back and forth. The wood will transmit the energy but not damage the aluminum from the harder hammer head.
Also smack the bolts head on. The shock will break up the corrosion and allow the pb blaster to seep in. I have an old set to socket drivers I use to hit instead of damaging the bolt heads.
Hammer - good!
Wear safety glasses when wacking anything. Lol!
 
Syleng1 said:
Don’t be afraid to shock the bolts. PB blaster on the bolts and then wack the adapter with a wood block and a hammer a bit back and forth. The wood will transmit the energy but not damage the aluminum from the harder hammer head.
Also smack the bolts head on. The shock will break up the corrosion and allow the pb blaster to seep in. I have an old set to socket drivers I use to hit instead of damaging the bolt heads.
Hammer - good!
Wear safety glasses when wacking anything. Lol!
Click to expand...

Screenshot (11).png
 
The degree on the heads and the plate make for a high resistance and it’s tough to break them loose with no corrosion involved. I find it easier to use a 5/16 drill bit and drill the center and the head will break off. After that the remainder of the bolt will almost screw out by hand it’s the surface area of the head not the threads that’s making them difficult.
If you can’t get a right angle drill in there your gonna need a good impact wrench and Allen socket to break them loose.
 
Get something for a big punch, even a big 1/2 or 5/8 bolt, and just about the largest hammer you own and give each a good swat on the head. If you (and I am) afeard of hitting your hand, hold the thing with vise grips.

If that doesn't work, HEAT. Even a "prop pane torch and prop pane accessories" can break them loose.

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clementine said:
Hello FaBo,
I a.m. switching out the shifter plate to the 6350 version and the old one is frozen on the tail housing. I have broken one Allen socket deal and have compromised two of the three Allen head, not beyond total usage... but pretty close. My plan is using a little propane heat on the tail housing and hitting it with a little WD 40 a couple times, then heat it and try the bolts again or tap on the plate a little.

Seem like the right path?

View attachment 1715986957

View attachment 1715986958

View attachment 1715986959
Click to expand...

Heat and an impact screwdriver. Have you ever used an impact screwdriver? when you hit the backside with a hammer, the bit rotates about 1/16 of a turn. They work great.
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I am familiar with these here techniques and appreciate the moral encouragement to swing heavy and large. I will give it a go, although I believe the swingin room is limited due to the location of the trans/tunnel situation. I think I have a 90* drill and will carefully drill if I cannot heat/swing/cuss those MFrs outta there.

Thank you FABO!!
 
clementine said:
I am familiar with these here techniques and appreciate the moral encouragement to swing heavy and large. I will give it a go, although I believe the swingin room is limited due to the location of the trans/tunnel situation. I think I have a 90* drill and will carefully drill if I cannot heat/swing/cuss those MFrs outta there.

Thank you FABO!!
Click to expand...
My bad. I did not notice that the part was still in the car. Good Lock.
 
harrisonm said:
My bad. I did not notice that the part was still in the car. Good Lock.
Click to expand...
no worries. It does make it a bit more challenging. I might try to heat it, beat it and chisel it. I dont really want to pull trans for the job, but it would give me the 'opportunity' to check my hydraulic TOB setup. Make sure I left enough gap. I bet I can get enough swing dropping the front of the exhaust though.....staying positive. Left my MAPP gas at the jobsite. Stuff is waaaaay hotter than propane. Dont really wanna yard out the oxy/acet rig. Shop is kinda crowded right now.

Thanks FABO
 
cudascott said:
The degree on the heads and the plate make for a high resistance and it’s tough to break them loose with no corrosion involved. I find it easier to use a 5/16 drill bit and drill the center and the head will break off. After that the remainder of the bolt will almost screw out by hand it’s the surface area of the head not the threads that’s making them difficult.
If you can’t get a right angle drill in there your gonna need a good impact wrench and Allen socket to break them loose.
Click to expand...
I have to agree with cudascott. Corrosion occurs around where the back side of the bolt meets with the aluminum plate. Two dissimilar metal's, especially when steel & aluminum meet, will form what is call galvanic corrosion, & make the two metals kind of weld each other together. Drilling out the screw/bolt heads may best solution. Otherwise soak them GOOD with PB'laster (I swear by that stuff too) lower the trans with a jack as much as you can, (remove the trans cross-member etc.) & use an impact DRIVER, not a gun/wrench, with a good fitting Allen bit & try to remove them that way. But I think the idea of drilling the heads of the fasteners off is your best bet. Some heat wouldn't hurt either, if you can do it without burning up anything. Good luck, & let us know how you make out.
 
Well, i do remember there was a time when i did this hobby without a welder....very imaginative, creative, dark days..

Thanks FABO!

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two more to go....
 
Last edited:
I would not say this was necessarily a skilled extraction due to the damage incurred to the 'potentially useful to someone else' part, but it was successful.

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Oldmanmopar said:
Tig weld nuts on them and turn them out easy.
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I did it with a MIG, see post #13, but what would Oldmanmopar put on the new threads? Anti seize or medium locktight or graphite assembly lube?

Thanks for the reply sir!
 
cudascott said:
Success!!
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yesssss!!! new 6350 plate is on paying attention to coating the conical flat part that contacts the plate counter sink area and drilled a hole through 4 speed hump to be able to run 1/4" screwdriver through to get the shifter all lined up. Things are progressing today!!

Thanks fabo!!
 
clementine said:
yesssss!!! new 6350 plate is on paying attention to coating the conical flat part that contacts the plate counter sink area and drilled a hole through 4 speed hump to be able to run 1/4" screwdriver through to get the shifter all lined up. Things are progressing today!!

Thanks fabo!!
Click to expand...

That’s awesome and no more big nut on the upper mechanism bolt since the new plate will have threads.
 
66fs said:
Blue loctite on threads anti-seize under the head.
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ooooooo.....I did think of this, but I assembled already. Ill do a test to see how this holds first. I gotta keep moving forward. This thing has taken too long already.
 
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