a904 Stall and shift kit recomendations

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Slantsix64

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Going to rebuild my trans wanted to add a shift kit and a better stall converter got a mild 318 will run 3.55 or 3.23 in the rear another concern is i have a 1967 transmission so the snout on the torque converter is the small diameter. any advice would be good car is a daily driver and import hunter.
 
Engine build & cam specs would be a great help for an actual converter recommendation.
 
stall for performance will depend on your cam specs and and your build details.
stall for fun is high enough to break the tires loose easily!
 

Going to rebuild my trans wanted to add a shift kit and a better stall converter got a mild 318 will run 3.55 or 3.23 in the rear another concern is i have a 1967 transmission so the snout on the torque converter is the small diameter. any advice would be good car is a daily driver and import hunter.

I presume that when you use the word" snout ", you're talking about the pilot that fits into the crank, and not the hub of the converter that fits into the transmission pump.
If it is the small 1.550" diameter pilot, you probably will have to have one custom built. There have been numerous high stall converter builders mentioned in previous posts about high stalls that can get you what you need for your application. Typically on their website they will have a specification sheet for you to fill in to tell them about your engine/drive train combination. Give them all the right answers and they can fill your needs. This is the best way to get what works best with your combination. What works in my car, may or may not give you the same performance in your car.
Chrysler from the factory in 1968 and on made a high stall for the 225/318 904 combo that stalled around 22-2300 rpm. They also had a low stall for the same engines/transmission combo that stalled around 19-2000 rpm. I can't give you which vehicles had the high stall or which vehicles had the low stall. If you phoned our shop looking for a replacement stock converter, and if the converter was the original Mopar unit, we'd ask you which decal was on the side of it.
Shift kit wise, Transgo shift kits were the main ones I sold to transmission shops in the past. Never saw a B & M kit in any shops stock room.
 
I presume that when you use the word" snout ", you're talking about the pilot that fits into the crank, and not the hub of the converter that fits into the transmission pump.
If it is the small 1.550" diameter pilot, you probably will have to have one custom built. There have been numerous high stall converter builders mentioned in previous posts about high stalls that can get you what you need for your application. Typically on their website they will have a specification sheet for you to fill in to tell them about your engine/drive train combination. Give them all the right answers and they can fill your needs. This is the best way to get what works best with your combination. What works in my car, may or may not give you the same performance in your car.
Chrysler from the factory in 1968 and on made a high stall for the 225/318 904 combo that stalled around 22-2300 rpm. They also had a low stall for the same engines/transmission combo that stalled around 19-2000 rpm. I can't give you which vehicles had the high stall or which vehicles had the low stall. If you phoned our shop looking for a replacement stock converter, and if the converter was the original Mopar unit, we'd ask you which decal was on the side of it.
Shift kit wise, Transgo shift kits were the main ones I sold to transmission shops in the past. Never saw a B & M kit in any shops stock room.
stall for performance will depend on your cam specs and and your build details.
stall for fun is high enough to break the tires loose easily!
I used the B&M Shift Improver Kit on my '73 904 w/318 (3.21 gears) and am very happy with it. Here is the kit for your year... http://files.dpbrands.com/bm/instructions/10226.pdf
TransGo Performance Shift Kits TF-2. 2400 stall converter
Engine build & cam specs would be a great help for an actual converter recommendation.
Thanks for the advice i think a would rebuild a later 1974 904 so it can match my block 1971. Last question will a 1974 a904 will bolt up to a 1971 block ? its the same shape and components as the other years correct?
 
With my personal experience I had a 68 and ended up building the 76 transmission because first it was in way better condition because it was probably a little newer but it had more clutches.
I know this sounds inexpensive but my friend just called to have his converter re done for his old Trans Am and it was like 75 or $90? I wouldn't think you'd need anything more than a stock converter if thats what you've been using. you were saying something about 3:55 or 3:23? Have those been put in yet? And what did you have in there before? had a seven and a quarter? oh I forgot. So yeah that probably had serious freeway gears in it and changing to a 355 will make all the difference in the world in your effort to slap around a few Imports and daily driving. I would do that 355 and that should make up for any stall converter you think you may need.
 
Glad to hear you're going to rebuild your own transmission! I want to say it's funny how easy it is but it's not the feeling I get. I feel more like my intelligence was insulted by how easy it was that I hadn't done it before.
Here's my experience on this: I picked up my transmission rebuild kit from a place here in town. I'm glad I did so because the kit was short one friction disc, it had one seal that was different, and the rear output shaft seal was the wrong one in the kit. So that was three extra trips down to the transmission Warehouse. Had this been through Jegs or Summit or one of these other places that would have been mailing back and forth all those times and it would have took forever. There's small changes and they try to blanket them all but can't put to many parts in the kit and stay competitive. Was how it was explained to me.
 
With my personal experience I had a 68 and ended up building the 76 transmission because first it was in way better condition because it was probably a little newer but it had more clutches.
I know this sounds inexpensive but my friend just called to have his converter re done for his old Trans Am and it was like 75 or $90? I wouldn't think you'd need anything more than a stock converter if thats what you've been using. you were saying something about 3:55 or 3:23? Have those been put in yet? And what did you have in there before? had a seven and a quarter? oh I forgot. So yeah that probably had serious freeway gears in it and changing to a 355 will make all the difference in the world in your effort to slap around a few Imports and daily driving. I would do that 355 and that should make up for any stall converter you think you may need.
ya thanks for the info actually i built a 7.25 with 3.55 for my slant six 4 speed car but i was like hey lets have some fun in the cuda. a week later is when the chaos happened ahah. im going to rebuild the trans put a transgo shift kit and upgrade to a 8.75 with 3.55 or 3.91
 
I can go through all my experience with rear ends but I'm just going to give you the bottom line and do a Dana 60 yourself. as in just buy an old junk one off of Craigslist for $100 with some good gears in it hopefully and go from there. You'll be money ahead with a way better rear end. I got caught up in that whole 8 and 3/4 thing and it just cost me a lot of money when it broke. If you put a lot of Street miles, I liked my 355. For the track I like my 410 dana.


ya thanks for the info actually i built a 7.25 with 3.55 for my slant six 4 speed car but i was like hey lets have some fun in the cuda. a week later is when the chaos happened ahah. im going to rebuild the trans put a transgo shift kit and upgrade to a 8.75 with 3.55 or 3.91
 
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