AC troubleshoot

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rtee007

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RV2 was blowing hot, so evacuated the system (R12), added the 134a reto fit couplings and pulled vacuum.
24hr no leaks.
Added 24oz 134a and gauge readings are displayed below.
No change in temp.

20220419_102553.jpg


20220419_102454.jpg
 
The compressor for certain IS running? What do the line temps feel like? That is the suction and discharge lines at the compressor. any frost or condensation, or "any" cooling feel around the lines at the firewall? My first thought is that the metering device is plugged (AKA the orifice, cap tube, TXV), and that can also be ICE, AKA water in the system.

If this is a TXV system the TXV might be just plain bad, EG ruptured pressure diaphragm/ temp bulb

 
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The compressor for certain IS running? What do the line temps feel like? That is the suction and discharge lines at the compressor. any frost or condensation, or "any" cooling feel around the lines at the firewall? My first thought is that the metering device is plugged (AKA the orifice, cap tube, TXV), and that can also be ICE, AKA water in the system.

If this is a TXV system the TXV might be just plain bad, EG ruptured pressure diaphragm/ temp bulb


Yes the clutch is engaging when I cycle the switch in the car. There is no condensation or cool feeling on any lines under the hood. As far as I can tell the compressor has never been apart. Pressure at gauges is all wrong imho. It is the stock Mopar system less the R12
 
What are the temps inside the car and outdoors? Does the compressor have service valves and do you know how to set them and what are their positions? I was thinking wrong, a plugged TXV is not gonna generate high suction. You DO have both valves closed on the test manifold?

What it looks like is that the compressor is doing absolutely nothing
 
What are the temps inside the car and outdoors? Does the compressor have service valves and do you know how to set them and what are their positions? I was thinking wrong, a plugged TXV is not gonna generate high suction. You DO have both valves closed on the test manifold?

What it looks like is that the compressor is doing absolutely nothing


Today's temp is about 69 and it about the same in the car. From my reading there is no way to adjust the rad (reed) valves in the MoPar RV2 unit. I have closed and opened the manifold valves on the gauges with no change in test results. Either the system has a stoppage or the compressor is shot, not building pressure. No compressors are available through auto parts houses any longer and the one out there for sale are a crap shoot, just cleaned and painted black in the hopes that they work for the purchaser. Rebuild kits and gaskets are almost impossible to find as well.
 
At this point I think it is 99% the compressor as the gauge readings are so equal to each other. I will probably just bow to a complete under hood AC upgrade kit for $625 and be done with the trouble.
 
Low side is too high.
Should be 50

High side is too low.
Should be about 225-250 at 858-ish

Line restriction?

Did you change the valve?
 
Low side is too high.
Should be 50

High side is too low.
Should be about 225-250 at 858-ish

Line restriction?

Did you change the valve?

Well all the "experts" have told me the compressor is shot because of the equal pressure on both sides of the system. Change what valve? Expansion valve? No I did not change that.
 
That's what I meant.

Could still be a restriction.

Finding it is the issue.

Did you replace the receiver/dryer?

Cheap to do that before buying an all new system.
 
At this point I would dump the charge and open the line fittings at the compressor. "Rig" the clutch to run and see if you can generate air pressure at outlet and vacuum at inlet. Pretty redneck, but hey..............
 
O'Reilly Auto Parts up here, IL/IA, can order the compressor, about $180. plus shipping, but no ETA.
 
RV2 was blowing hot, so evacuated the system (R12), added the 134a reto fit couplings and pulled vacuum.
24hr no leaks.
Added 24oz 134a and gauge readings are displayed below.
No change in temp.

View attachment 1715910387

View attachment 1715910388
Wait so you just evacuated a 12 system and just put in 134 without changing the compressor and flushing all the oil? Did not change the dryer? It won't last the summer if that is the case. 12 oil dose not mix well with 134 it becomes acidic and will cause the system to fail.

24 oz of 134 is not enough charge unless your system only took 30 oz of 12.
 
Don't think you have enough R134 freon in the system yet, here is a reference to a 1974 Charger AC system that takes around 34 oz. of freon.
If you have a site glass on your reciever dryer you can watch for bubbles there, when the bubbles are gone the system is full.

Usually put a thermometer in the Dash AC outlet to watch the output temp. You won't get any drop in temp till there is enough freon in the system. At first it will pull down to around 65 degrees, keep adding til the temp gets around 55 degrees.

Can jump the compressor to keep it pumping as you are filling the system, once you get enough freon in the system you can take the jumper off and finish the fill.


Here is the example:

The proper R134a charge rate — or charge capacity — for all vehicles is most often between 70-80% percent of the original R12 refrigerant charge rate. That should be listed in your service manual. (If you don’t have one, you can find them at moparmanuals.com, among other places.) A 1974 Dodge Charger came originally charged at 3.25 lbs of R12 from the factory, which would take 36-42 oz of R134a (3.25 lbs @ 16 oz per lb = 52 oz x 70% = 36.4 oz).

We typically recommend that you start at the 70% mark (in this case 36.4 oz) and watch your gauge readings and temperature using a thermometer in the center vent with your air volume on high. Add 1 – 1.5 oz and repeat the procedure until you’ve reached your coldest vent temperature and your system pressures are within a comfortable range.

3.25 lbs > 70% > 36.4 oz freon.


As the system is filling your low pressure side line should start to feel cold, You should be safe with 30 oz. of freon to start with and see if it starts coming around, if all is good continue adding until inerior temp is in the mid 50s.

Napa has new AC compressors for 72 Darts for around 200, but fill your system first.

Sometimes you have to put the freon cans in hot water as you are recharging the system if it is cooler day to help push the freon into the system.


upload_2022-4-21_8-39-24.png
 
Oh Yeah,
Make sure the high pressure side on your recharge gauges is closed. You want to be filling the system from the Low Side only. (suction side)

This may be your problem with your gauge readings, is that you are refilling the system through both low and high pressure sides at the same time.
 
One more time:

Receiver/dryer, receiver/dryer, receiver/dryer.

$25 from rockauto.

Get some green O rings while you're on there.
 
One more time:

Receiver/dryer, receiver/dryer, receiver/dryer.

$25 from rockauto.

Get some green O rings while you're on there.

Yep, not changing the reciever dryer on a 134 conversion is like not changing your oil filter on an oil change.
 
It holds oil and debris.

Very good odds a restriction could be right there.
 
Let me reiterate, you can't just drop 134 into a 12 system without a flush and a new compressor and dryer.
Rv2 compressors cannot be flushed so they must be replaced.
Dryers retain the oil that does not work with 134.

As far as those pressure. Charts they are garbage. If you have 50 psi on low side in a 134 system you do not have cold air period. You can Guage on the high side ambient times 2.5 as a good target low should always be just above freezing


OP needs to go to a professional so he doesn't ruin his system.
 
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