Accelerator Peddle

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69signetv8

69signetv8

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Today I was reading a thread on kickdown. Some of you perhaps read this thread. Anyways, I decided to check mine out because I wasn't 100% happy with my performance from a stand still or "at times" (power pass) kickdown. I think my Vac Sec is fine and not giving me any problems.

Sooo, I checked my complete kickdown linkage from the "HOLLEY" carb throttle linkage to the trans and "all" looks really good. Basiclly, when throttle is completely held open by hand my kickdown at the trans is fully foreward. (Good thing). When throttle fully closed, the kickdown is fully to the rear at the trans (Good thing).

The problem:

I used the stick method the hold the acclerator as far as possible to the floor. I went out to engine compartment and checked again my kickdown/throttle and noticed there was about .5 inch unused cable, therefore my throttle will (not fully open) and kickdown not completely forward (max) when booted!

I looked my cable over at the (2) adjustment points and found that if I pulled the cable sleve back at the hold down clamp to make up .5, the throttle would "not" go back to fully close due to cable loss. NOTE: Holley has a very long throttle movement (about 100 degrees) from completely closed to fully open.. After all this reading, I have a question, has anyone ever just "bent" their accelarator peddle upwards away from the floor to make up this .5 to achieve more cable pull???
JUST TO ADD...My peddle has a 3" cable pull from firewall to fully matted and the 100 degree holley movement is about 3.5" :sad2:
 
This is just to wierd. I was just posting what I think might be the exact same question. I just installed a Lokar cable and it looks like I don't get enough throttle. Before I cut the inner cable, I looked closer and I can trim/shim the firewall fitting, but it appears that the gas pedal, itself is what makes contact first. It is the part of the gas pedal that semi-parallels the firewall. It appears that if I trim the 3-4 inches on the gas pedal then the next point of contact would be the firewall fitting. Is this where yours seem to be getting the limited movement?
Mac
 
Are you using the Chrysler linkage adapter or just using the cable mounted right to a factory Holley arm? Benting the gas pedal is a band-aid fix, it doesn't address the real problem. The cable pulls less than the lever moves were the cable is attached. To correct this you need to move the cable attachment closer to the shaft on the carb. The closer to the shaft you attach the cable the less it will have to travel to make full movement. This will make you pedal stiffer though because of the amount of leverage is less as you get closer to the shaft.
 
340mopar said:
Are you using the Chrysler linkage adapter or just using the cable mounted right to a factory Holley arm? Benting the gas pedal is a band-aid fix, it doesn't address the real problem. The cable pulls less than the lever moves were the cable is attached. To correct this you need to move the cable attachment closer to the shaft on the carb. The closer to the shaft you attach the cable the less it will have to travel to make full movement. This will make you pedal stiffer though because of the amount of leverage is less as you get closer to the shaft.
Click to expand...

Yes I'm using Chrysler factory cable to Holley arm. You have me somewhat confused...cable attachment sleve on the cable hold down or the attachment cable end? The cable end attachment is As close as possible to the shaft on the carb? Here's some pics

DSCF0004.JPG


DSCF0003.JPG
 
Dead End Kid said:
This is just to wierd. I was just posting what I think might be the exact same question. I just installed a Lokar cable and it looks like I don't get enough throttle. Before I cut the inner cable, I looked closer and I can trim/shim the firewall fitting, but it appears that the gas pedal, itself is what makes contact first. It is the part of the gas pedal that semi-parallels the firewall. It appears that if I trim the 3-4 inches on the gas pedal then the next point of contact would be the firewall fitting. Is this where yours seem to be getting the limited movement?
Mac
Click to expand...

Ya, I think you know what I mean, with my upper peddle (where the cable) comes through the firewall is tight. So it looks like if I bend the foot peddle up some it will give me more pull. I don't think I can do anything else around the carb. :sad2:
 
340...I do have the Chry. adapter for the Holley for the trans kick-down. There is a hole that mounts the adapter to the carb that I could utilize to get more travel, but it still doesn't "seem" to be enough. The part of the gas pedal I has talking about trimming would accomplish the same thing Signet was talking about.

Signet - I see you posted a reply back to 340Mopar. Where you were thinking about modiying the pedal, what I was refering to is cutting/profiling the back of the pedal about the 1/2 inch we both think we need. Is yours the same?
 
Dead End Kid said:
340...I do have the Chry. adapter for the Holley for the trans kick-down. There is a hole that mounts the adapter to the carb that I could utilize to get more travel, but it still doesn't "seem" to be enough. The part of the gas pedal I has talking about trimming would accomplish the same thing Signet was talking about.

Signet - I see you posted a reply back to 340Mopar. Where you were thinking about modiying the pedal, what I was refering to is cutting/profiling the back of the pedal about the 1/2 inch we both think we need. Is yours the same?
Click to expand...

If you look at your gas peddle, there's a pivit...the top half connects to the cable and the bottom to the peddle. I was saying, if I bend the lower peddle bar up towards the driver .5 I think it would give me that extra cable pull stepping on the gas??
 
Signet, mine is a '67 Barracuda, so I'm guessing yours is probabaly the same. Where the throttle cable goes thru the firewall there are 2 nuts that when removed the gas pedal assembly can be removed with the cable attached...of course after the cable tie-down on the manifold is removed. If it ends up that we need to bend or grind the gas pedal this would make the job easier. I just removed the factory cable like yours and my aftermarket cable creates more of a limitation because of the firewall fitting supplied.
Mac
 
Dead End Kid said:
Signet, mine is a '67 Barracuda, so I'm guessing yours is probabaly the same. Where the throttle cable goes thru the firewall there are 2 nuts that when removed the gas pedal assembly can be removed with the cable attached...of course after the cable tie-down on the manifold is removed. If it ends up that we need to bend or grind the gas pedal this would make the job easier. I just removed the factory cable like yours and my aftermarket cable creates more of a limitation because of the firewall fitting supplied.
Mac
Click to expand...

Yes Mac, your right; and I think their the same peddle/cable. I fugured bending the peddle up is better then a shim behind the complete bracket because I just need the extra pull. If I shim the whole frame up (bolt area), it will put pull the cable at the top as well and I don't want that because pulling at the top will open my throttle when suppose to be fully closed. I only want more cable at matting it. Got you confused now I bet??
 
Signet, I think what 340 Mopar is reffering to is that if you move your trans kickdown lever to where you have your return springs, then you could utilize the mounting holes where you now have the kickdown lever mounted. This places the pivot point closer to the center of the carb. It looks like you would have to flip your throttle hold-down braket around and utilize the outside of the bracket for better alaignment. I still don't think this would give us enough, but I see where it would help.
Mac
 
Nope...not confussed at all. When I was talking about shimming that has to do with the firewall fitting that came with my bracket. You don't have this extra added pain with the factory cable. The Lokar portrudes more into the pedal bracket. The part top of the gas pedal that you are looking at moving by bending is the same part I'm thinking about grinding off to get the clearance.
 
Dead End Kid said:
Signet, I think what 340 Mopar is reffering to is that if you move your trans kickdown lever to where you have your return springs, then you could utilize the mounting holes where you now have the kickdown lever mounted. This places the pivot point closer to the center of the carb. It looks like you would have to flip your throttle hold-down braket around and utilize the outside of the bracket for better alaignment. I still don't think this would give us enough, but I see where it would help.
Mac
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will take a look at that, I may need a holley kit or a bag of nut and bolt to think things out. Thanks as well 340 Mopar :thumblef: :thumblef:
 
Signet, that's exactly what I did and it worked. Be careful not to go too far unless you are use to driving with an accelerator peddle that high up. Peace
 
cudachaser said:
Signet, that's exactly what I did and it worked. Be careful not to go too far unless you are use to driving with an accelerator peddle that high up. Peace
Click to expand...

Thanks cudachaser, guess I'm not the first or only one to do this then. :thumblef:
 
340mopar said:
Are you using the Chrysler linkage adapter or just using the cable mounted right to a factory Holley arm? Benting the gas pedal is a band-aid fix, it doesn't address the real problem. The cable pulls less than the lever moves were the cable is attached. To correct this you need to move the cable attachment closer to the shaft on the carb. The closer to the shaft you attach the cable the less it will have to travel to make full movement. This will make you pedal stiffer though because of the amount of leverage is less as you get closer to the shaft.
Click to expand...

Thanks 340mopar, I now understand what you mean "closer" to the centre throttle shaft pivit. I will take a closer look and see if I'm able to move stuff around to accommadate the cable link closer. Cheers :thumblef:
Jim
 
Dead End Kid said:
Signet, I think what 340 Mopar is reffering to is that if you move your trans kickdown lever to where you have your return springs, then you could utilize the mounting holes where you now have the kickdown lever mounted. This places the pivot point closer to the center of the carb. It looks like you would have to flip your throttle hold-down braket around and utilize the outside of the bracket for better alaignment. I still don't think this would give us enough, but I see where it would help.
Mac
Click to expand...
This is exactly how the the adapter is supposed to work. The place were the cable is now is for the bowtie guys.
 
340mopar said:
This is exactly how the the adapter is supposed to work. The place were the cable is now is for the bowtie guys.
Click to expand...

Bowtie Boys......Owch, gota change that fore sure now! :thumblef:
 
i have a proform carb went to the track and found out thrid pass in that my throttle was not opening all the way i did bend up the pedal i also have a lokar cable but not enuf so what i did is pulled the pedal off and put a spacer behind the
pedal seems like it works fine also you might try a floor pedal thats the advice i got from mancinis
 
moparjunkie said:
i have a proform carb went to the track and found out thrid pass in that my throttle was not opening all the way i did bend up the pedal i also have a lokar cable but not enuf so what i did is pulled the pedal off and put a spacer behind the
pedal seems like it works fine also you might try a floor pedal thats the advice i got from mancinis
Click to expand...

So, did you find a big improvement afterwards?? I gotta know the full story about your fourth pass??? :)
 
Thanks "340 Mopar", and everyone's input. I decide it was worth a try and just make some cable swap/kickdown changes then to bend up the gas peddle for the extra pull. Everything's Cool and I'm a happy camper!
Here's a pic of the NEW cable/kickdown changes compared to my earlier setup pic in this post.

Thanks again!!!! :salut: :drinkers:

DSCF0001a.JPG
 
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