adjustable pinion snubber ?'s

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Sorry man. I was one that looked but I don't use one and never have.

I have SS springs on the only one I currently race.
 
I'm interested to find out as well. Planning on getting the same pinion snubber as 71swing. I've heard they may cause problems on the street, true?
 
I got one on the Duster. Seems to work for me. No wheel hop.
Plants the tires well. If the Duster was more of a strickly
drag car. I might have to go with a slid-a-link or cal-tracks.
But for a street/strip car. I think it's worth the money.
 
The adjustable one makes the best sense. Good advice!

I have used the MP part for many years. They do work excellent if you can adjust them correctly. There in lays the problem of fine adjustment.
The above suggestion of a brace is also recomended by the MP books.
Adjustment is IIRC 1/2 or so, but not touching.

IF the cars of old raced S/S springs and a snubber into the low 10's (Where even the MoPar books say it's a catch 22 on leaf spring set ups or 4 links etc....) Then I think if you took some time to investigate what you have, you'll do right fine.
 
thanks for the video DJVcuda, I think I will try the snubber, The car sees limited track and street. I just don't think i will see the track enough to justify cal-track bars.
 
I run one on the Demon and I've never experienced the "evil" bunny hop even with ET stickyees on it. I adjust mine to 1/2" and it works fine but mine is only for occasional strip use.

Terry

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One thing I thought I`d mention about the threaded snubber with lock nut is, it is not very good for street use because even when it`s threaded all the way down it will hit the floorpan (it sits quite high) unless the streets you run are extremely good. On the flip side ,with the threaded version you have the ability to really dial it in. The Mopar book says adjust it from 1/2" to nearly touching the floor for drag racing. Bracing the floor where it hits is a great idea too, my car is testament to that! If you can afford it, I would use the stock version for running the streets and the threaded version for drag racing.
 
Funny this post came up just now. I got my American muscle adjustable snubber in the mail 15 minutes ago. The directions that came with it say to adjust the snubber so it just touches the floor pan so it doesn't hit the uerethane stop too hard. They say that if the uerethane piece hits too hard it may not stay there long. They also recommend adjusting it all the way down for"normal" driving conditions. I will probably install it later tonight.


After reading the previous posts about height concerns on the American muscle version I think I will just use this as a bolt on prior to track use(haven't got to the trackl yet but almost ready) I think on a bad day it might take ten minutes to install.

o.k. I changed my mind again.....I think I will bolt it in and see how it works on the street, Any ideas how much clearance is needed for the street? Do you want a snubber to actually hit the floor pan on the streets?
 
The "Just about to touch" is what I would adjust it to at max. The instructions are correct on the bumper becoming destroied if it travels to much and hits hard. The brace is an excellent idea.
Been there done that.
 
I made a pinion snubber when I was in HS for the Valiant and it worked very well. The first time I put it on and tried it in front of the school it made the 7 1/4" rear break both sides loose! No exageration! I guess it planted the tired well enough to force the rear to try to transfer between axels.
On the othr hand, IT IS HORRIBLE FOR THE STREET! If you have just off the snubber it will beat the crap out of the plate, which happened to mine. Its caved in slightly.
So to sum it up, my experiance is that its good for the track poor for the street.
Seems to be the same as all the other opinions. Later guys

Oh and one other thing, the body hitting the snubber so hard and so many times made the plate rip the bolts out of the diff after a while!
 
I made my own using the stock base and welding on square tubing, making it adjustable with drilled holes and a 1/2" pin...used a front end bumper on the top...I run it around 1" from the floor for the street
 
Sanguine said:
I made my own using the stock base and welding on square tubing, making it adjustable with drilled holes and a 1/2" pin...used a front end bumper on the top...I run it around 1" from the floor for the street
Click to expand...

That sounds like the style that came on my Cuda. I also run it about 1" for the street and never have any problems with it bottoming out even though we don't have great roads around here. Nice thing is it requires no tools and is easy to adjust when I get to the track.
 
Well, I went ahead and purchased the mopar adjustable snubber. It will have to be for the track only. Because with the car at the ride height for street driving doesn't offer enough room to fit the snubber on. But at the track with the slicks on I will raise the ride height for the slicks and this should give me enough room to bolt up the snubber at it lowest setting. let you guys know how it all goes down. Should be hitting the track on friday as long as the weather permits me too.
 
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