Adjusting side glass

[Dave999]

on mine the 1/4 window frame has 4 mounting points

1) bottom of door for the door glass runner in the 1/4 vent
2) clamped with an allen bolt in the corner of the 1/4 window. access behind trim or plastic button on interior door top
3) a bolt into the shoulder of the front of the door small bolt, big hole in door, massive washer..positioning in this hole is key....!
4) a special stud through a hole in the front face of the door. has an allen or slotted screw driver end on the stud part that passes through the door.

no.4 is a double ended stud, has a fine thread on 1 end that screws into the pot metal 1/4 vent frame front leg, and a course thread the other end that passes through the door frame front and is locked in position by a nut with a captive washer on the outside in the door jam.

no.4 stud has a thick captive washer as part of it with 1 side missing. that captive washer is responsible for 2 positioning actions and sits inside the door between the 1/4 vent pot metal leg and the inside of the door frame next to a bit of welded on bracket

wind the this stud into or out of the frame to position the 1/4 frame, more forward or back in relation to the roof line and screen pillar,use the slot or allen end with the nut undone. winding the stud out pushes the front of the 1/4 frame forward. once happy with that position then turn that same bolt 1/4 to half turn 1 way or the other so that the washer with the side cut off runs against a profile/welded bracket on the inside of the door, to cause the top of the 1/4 frame to stick out sideways from the car more or less.
flat side of washer inwards top of 1/4 further out
round side of washer inwards top of 1/4 can closer to centre of car.

no.3 acts a pivot for this and, this only works if you have managed to position no.3 correctly
you have a massive amount of scope for positioning no.3

use positioning of no.1 to help
only do up no.2 when done

its a pig of a job to do...
only do it when door is properly aligned


problems
brackets missing in door
fine threaded stud with fat profile washer and course threaded end is missing and a fine threaded bolt is in use.
fine thread hole into front lower leg of pot metal frame is stripped. (ptfe tape can help)
aftermarket rubbers and seals just don't fit and force the 1/4 frame out.
door window winding is so stiff in the guide channel in the 1/4 vent frame that it lifts the frame and the adjustments you made are all lost.

Dave

 

[Moparone]

The issue is that the rear of the glass trim is bent up slightly not that the front a pillar piece is down. I don't think I can move it up any....will have a closer look. I hope I overlapped the 2 pieces correctly.

I pulled the upper glass seal and find that the a pillar sits even with the upper glass trim now like it should. Looking close I see that there is an area behind the top of the vent window where there is about a 1/16" gap to the bare trim....add the thickness of the rubber seal in there and that is the problem. I circled the area (I think I got it right). How to fix this? I'll see if there is any room to jockey the trim inwards or upwards perhaps. I did dolly it a bit. Perhaps the gasket is thicker than it should be.

View attachment 1716433203

I had a similar issue. There are two different rubbers that are being sold. The cheaper one doesn’t fit. I purchased the better one through Detroit muscle (they sell both). That solved the issue. No more binding in the lower vent area

 

[Dave999]

ah you are all sorted out... i should read all pages....

 

[1MeanA]

I had a similar issue. There are two different rubbers that are being sold. The cheaper one doesn’t fit. I purchased the better one through Detroit muscle (they sell both). That solved the issue. No more binding in the lower vent area

I have the Metro seal. DMT shows the 'premium' Steele seal at $230. My vent frames match up with the roof rail trim much better without the weatherstripping in place so it must be the stiffness of the weatherstripping causing the problems. I might spring for the Steele weatherstrip and hope they work better.

 

[1MeanA]

I have the 'premium' Steele roof rail weather strip on order ($330 Cdn!) so it better darn well fit better than the Metro.

 

[Moparone]

Made a huge issue for me. Not even sure why they sell the other one. The cheap one made the door bind up when closing. The premium fit perfect.

 

[1MeanA]

I have the 'premium' Steele roof rail weather strip on order ($330 Cdn!) so it better darn well fit better than the Metro.

View attachment 1716436191

There was a mix up..mostly mine...and I got the Metro weatherstrip instead. If I open it I can't return it. At $330 Cdn I'm not taking a chance. I'll just return it and order from Steele direct. Good thing I'm not in a hurry anymore. I did get the car cut and polished while I was waiting.

 

[Super-Cuda]

There was a mix up..mostly mine...and I got the Metro weatherstrip instead. If I open it I can't return it. At $330 Cdn I'm not taking a chance. I'll just return it and order from Steele direct. Good thing I'm not in a hurry anymore. I did get the car cut and polished while I was waiting.
View attachment 1716440682

Looks awesome!

 

[1MeanA]

Looking back at receipts it was the OER roof rail seal that did not fit not the Metro. I finally received the Steele seal...it was very expensive. It was obviously lighter and softer than the OER seal. It installed very easily and the vent window now fits correctly.