Advice needed on rotted roof

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Keystone

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So to as a follow up to my introduction post…

I bought my first old car with the intent of doing some mechanical work over the winter and being able to have a half decent driver by spring time. The number one thing I told myself when I started shopping almost a year ago was “I don’t want to have to do a lot of bodywork”. I asked the seller about rust problems and he told me the only issue was some surface rust in the trunk from the vinyl top which had gone bad. He told me he took care of the rust when he removed the top, and that the roof was in primer and ready for paint.

My mistake here was taking him at his word and not thoroughly checking things over. I did look at the quarters, rockers, doors, etc. and put a magnet to them to verify they were solid. His rattle can primer job on the roof was far from perfect but I figured it wouldn’t be too hard to finish up. I really had no clue at how much damage a failed vinyl top can do to a roof.

I got the car home and began fixing some small problems in addition to cleaning up and painting the inside of the trunk. Once that was done I decided I’d paint the roof in a textured black like I’ve seen someone else on here do. In preparing for this I finally inspected the roof more closely and noticed there were a few spots that looked a little off, so took some sand paper to them, eventually switching to a wire wheel and pulling the back window when I found the rust.

So his idea of “taking care of the rust” was to trowel on the bondo. He literally filled in the roof with it at some spots.

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So now I’m afraid I’m in way over my head here. I checked on AMD and I can get the filler panel (Dutchman) and the corners for the bottom edge of the window frame, but that’s it. Even if I could buy a roof skin, I’ve never tackled anything even close to that. I don’t even know where to begin with this mess.

Does anyone have any suggestions, or did I just piss away $5000 on a parts car?
 
I know the surprise wasn't welcome, but I wouldn't bail on this car if this is the worst you've seen.
Many of us have patched this much and more, a MIG welder, and a 4" grinder will be your new best friends.
Or look for a body shop and get a quote, these cars we love all rust, we're lucky they're still here!
 
That does look like a bit of work. However, with patience and determination, it is very savable. Now myself, I am fairly adventurous, so I would build patches for everything except possibly the Dutchman panel. I may even patch that. I have over the last few years, taught myself to repair this stuff. Not only because I'm cheap!! But also due to lack of, or cost of, parts and shipping. If you have a welder, I would start on the hidden patches for practice and then move onto the ones that will be seen. If you are using vinyl again, that will give you some forgiveness as well.
 
I do have a Linclon MIG. I bought it about 15 years to put wheel arches and cab corners in a truck that I wanted to keep on the road for a few more years. The thing there ,I wasn't concerned about perfection. It came out okay, but there were still a few tell tale sings.
Of course if I do some sort of textured paint that would help to hide any seams if I don't get it just right. If I can get just a back 1/4 or so, that would at least make this seem less daunting.
 
The roof skin isn't any harder than doing the dutchman or corners. In fact it's probably easier than doing the dutchman because the skin doesn't locate anything, the dutchman has to be right or the trunk gap will be off. To replace the whole skin it's just a whole lot of spot welds. About 200 actually. But really it's the same process. Drill out all the spot welds, remove the skin. Fit the new skin, clamp it into place and put all the spot welds back. Sure, there's a lot of them and it will take a lot longer, but the process is exactly the same.

If you do patches you'll have to be a little more careful not to warp the metal, just because the roof skin is a big, mostly flat sheet so it's easy to warp if you build too much heat. The spots you need to replace are fairly small, and being near the edges is a good thing as that will help with the warping vs trying to work further out in the flat panel where there's no reinforcement.
 
Thanks for the info. I guess I was overthinking it. I just did a little searching on here and saw what's involved.

Whitepunk already sent me the PM. You guys really know how to make a newbie (to the forum and the Mopar hobby) feel welcome. :thumbsup:
 
...the dutchman has to be right or the trunk gap will be off.

Yeah, that's what happened when I did the first cab corner on that truck. I cut it out, welded the new one in, filled it sanded, primed it and was all proud of myself. Then I closed the door. Oops. The body line was way off, but at least it closed. Live and learn.
 
So what does one do with a dented roof panel? The window frames are all still straight, but there's a dent the diameter of a basketball, and maybe an inch deep at its center? Non vinyl roof car.
 
So what does one do with a dented roof panel? The window frames are all still straight, but there's a dent the diameter of a basketball, and maybe an inch deep at its center? Non vinyl roof car.

Ouch. Going to have to get behind it and work it out, you'll probably have to do some heat shrinking because a dent like that will usually stretch the metal and keep it from returning to it's original shape. You'll need someone that really knows how to work metal for that one, not just a bondo slinger.
 
So what does one do with a dented roof panel? The window frames are all still straight, but there's a dent the diameter of a basketball, and maybe an inch deep at its center? Non vinyl roof car.
Cut a straight line right through the center of it, ease the metal back into shape with support from below, and then weld it back together again.
 
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