After Market Wiring

-
7

71-440-Duster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
335
Reaction score
94
Location
Northern Cal
Guys,

I've been battling a low voltage to the coil problem for too long and looking to go with painless, summit brand or hotrodwires.com aftermarket replacement 12 circuit wiring.

I'm also looking at going with an aftermarket instrument panel like the 1 that redlinegaugeworks.com sells and add my gauges.

Have you guys had any issues with dealing with any of these companies or products?

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again!
 
We have a painless rep right here.

Where are you Jason? (aka BJS Racing)
 
Low voltage to the coil suggests a serious drain on you ignition system. The existing wiring in Mopars was usually adequate to supply coil requirements, unless you have an after market ignition setup. Is it wired to the correct source? Check voltages elsewhere to see if this is the only place you have low voltage indications. This may not be Painless, but it may give some insite as on whats going on. Good luck. Howard
 
How much voltage do you have at the coil? You will never see 12V there since the stock ignition is designed to use a 6V coil. Just a thought.
 
As was asked before. How many volts. are going to the coil. While I would love to see you use some of our products (Painless) but it may not be the answer to the problem. I would first start by checking the resistance across the ballast resistor and let us know what you come up with. You should see any where from .8 to 1.2 ohms of resistance across the resistor. If its out side that range then your problem may be there. If you were going to do a rewire and wanted to use our product I would look at using part number 10127 our Universal Mopar Harness. This will give you correct color coding for the early Mopar Muscle cars and will also include ALL of the wiring for the heat and wiper sytems. This kit also will give you the block off plate for the old bulk head connector along with the head light switch connector and terminals. It also provides new contacts for your tail light sockets and park light sockets.

Jason Hamner
Painless Performance
Tech. Support
 
I'm getting 3 volts at the coil.

I am using the standard mopar electronic conversion kit with Accel Super coil. I also have a Moroso battery kill switch with the battery in the trunk. I have good ground from the motor to the chassis as well as from the battery to the chassis.

This system was working, for the most part, before and now that I have my newly rebuilt 440 it is not.

I had some problems before with the dash. One of the leads to the dash's amp meter was loose and was causing starting problems. I fixed this by replacing the instrument cluster with a much nicer looking one from a wrecker. That worked for a year and now this.

I believe I have a ground issue somewhere as the ballast resistor gets really hot!

As soon as I turn the key to the run position it heats up the ballast and I only get 3 volts at the coil.

I swapped out the ECU, coil and ballast resistor already with no change.

I will check the ballast resistor to see what type of resistance it has.
 
Also check to see what kind of voltage you are getting to the blue wire that goes to the ballast resistor and to the voltage regulator for the alternator. They should all be 12 v. with the key on. If not then we need to look at the bulk head connector and or the ignition switch.
 
I get about 12 volts to the blue wire but the wire that goes to the coil is about 4 volts.

I have all the wires going to the alt disconnected to eliminate it as a factor.
 
You have a bad ballast resistor! The standard part number for the ballast you should use is a RU-11. Carquest sells standard. If not Go to Napa and get their Echlin version. Don't get the SB version (cheaper line) and what ever you do do NOT buy it at Autozone!
 
My fix for a recent problem (Intermtent hard to start) was new ignition module.
I'm pretty sure the loose and sparking ground terminal at the battery is what killed it.
Just for the sake of knowing, remove 2 screws and look at the back of yours. If any of the sealing gell coat is melted and oozing, there's your sign. Good luck
 
RedFish said:
My fix for a recent problem (Intermtent hard to start) was new ignition module.
I'm pretty sure the loose and sparking ground terminal at the battery is what killed it.
Just for the sake of knowing, remove 2 screws and look at the back of yours. If any of the sealing gell coat is melted and oozing, there's your sign. Good luck
Click to expand...

That may be a partial issue but that is in no way why he is only getting 3 or 4 volts to the coil. I would also check to make sure that you are getting 12v. to the coil while you are cranking it. This would be coming from the brown wire going to the coil side of the ballast resistor. It is also the brown wire at the ignition switch. If you don't have it at the coil then go back to the switch and see if you have it there. I had a guy about two weeks ago that had a bad switch causing all his problems. And to make it worse it was intermitent so he had a heck of a time finding it.
 
BJS racing said:
That may be a partial issue but that is in no way why he is only getting 3 or 4 volts to the coil. I would also check to make sure that you are getting 12v. to the coil while you are cranking it. This would be coming from the brown wire going to the coil side of the ballast resistor. It is also the brown wire at the ignition switch. If you don't have it at the coil then go back to the switch and see if you have it there. I had a guy about two weeks ago that had a bad switch causing all his problems. And to make it worse it was intermitent so he had a heck of a time finding it.
Click to expand...
Thats what I was getting, 2.7, 3.3, 3.7, at trying to start. The run voltage was always there at run position. Often the start voltage would come alive 9.+ and she'd fire right up. Keep in mind, that car is only driven 2 or 3 times a week. It would start fine for a week or 2. Then suddenly I might spend 1/2 hour trying to start it. Block the choke open and geter running with run volage only.

Problem came and went for months (along with raise the hood and screw around with a ground terminal that should have been replaced long ago.
When that ecu finally died the run voltage went to about 3 volts too.
Replaced the entire ground cable. Fully charged the battery (overnight).
Next morning, no change at the coil. Off to town for a new spark box.

I dont know whats inside the box or how it works. I take for granted there have been many changes in its electronics over the years. I pretty much expect to have wierd fault symptoms that are not suggested in an OEM service manual.
 
I guess or shorting a percentage to ground or something. All I know for sure is a new ecu fixed it.
 
Well, I'm pretty sure I found the problem.

I disconnected the steering column wiring harness and by passed the ignition switch by manually jumping the wires. Basically hot wiring my own car. I got about 11 volts to the coil and the ballast resistor doesn't get smoking hot!

I have my eye on a new ignition switch\lock with 2 keys...

I will let you know how it turns out when I get it installed.

Now I just have to tear into my steering column... Oh fun!

PS ECU is ok...

THANKS GUYS!
 
The electrical ignition switch is a seperate part from lock cylinder and keys.
Good luck
 
Regardless of where you buy an aftermarket switch compare it with the original.
Some replacement switches out there have an extra wire on a previously unused switch terminal. That with enters the harness connecter at 4th hole from one end where your column shift indicaters lamp wire goes.
Unless this is corrected it will blow the dash light fuse. Good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top