Aftermarket shifter, 727

[CRUZE 418]

The rear cable exit shifters, is the shift pattern reversed on a reverse valve body 727? This is all new to me, just switched from a 4-speed to automatic Coan reverse valve body 727. I didn't ask Coan about shift cable issues when routing from the front, didn't know till I got into it. Heat from the headers (Hemi) is going to be a problem. I have DEI heat shield sleeve on the cable, but not sure if it's going to live. Looking for options if the way I have it fails.

 

[33IMP]

Race use, or street?
Look into a Winters sidewinder. Been around for fifty years, solid as a rock, rear cable entry, part #s for 727/904 only, not universal, forward or reverse patterns available

And a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the similar cheetah, and comes with a cover, unlike the cheetah.

For RACE use, I'd probably pick something else. I made a few too many 1-3-2-3 shift adventures with my cheetah.

 

[33IMP]

RACE use, try PPP shifter. NOT cheap, but everybody I know that has one loves it. Clean neutral too, if your valve body has one.

 

[MMissile]

If you don't have clean neutral, several options out there.
I've used several PPP units. I like them because of the clean neutral option. I don't have a clean neutral in Krusty, so I looked at other units. I purchased a B&M Pro-Bandit.
I like the feel of it, a bunch better than the PPP unit in my other car. If I decide to put a clean neutral in the car, there are few other shifter options for my ATI Turbo-400.

 

[CRUZE 418]

I haven't heard the term , Clean neutral before. No neutral, or has a neutral? My Coan 727 is a street strip unit, next step up would have been full race. This is a street car, old race car, I believe, is tubbed with 31x16.5x15's, Dana with 3:73's. I probably should have asked more questions when I ordered this trans, but they new it would be street driven. No idea what my Hemi HP would be, but it isn't stock.

 

[33IMP]

A clean neutral is another neutral position created by the valve body requiring a compatible shifter.
It allows a safe shift into neutral at the end of a run, without having to work thru the other gears, or let the engine braking slow the car.
P R N 1 2 3 N typically.
Street/strip trans, pretty unlikely you have a clean neutral valve body. if you did, youd know it.

 

[CRUZE 418]

Okay, thank you for the explanation. I need to study up on a couple of things here. I haven't started this engine yet, so I haven't hurt anything yet! The shifter that is installed is a B&M pro rachet.
I will get back with you guys after I do a little more studying.
Thank you!
This is the shifter that I have.

 

[Demonx2]

Race use, or street?
Look into a Winters sidewinder. Been around for fifty years, solid as a rock, rear cable entry, part #s for 727/904 only, not universal, forward or reverse patterns available

And a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the similar cheetah, and comes with a cover, unlike the cheetah.

For RACE use, I'd probably pick something else. I made a few too many 1-3-2-3 shift adventures with my cheetah.

For the OP...and to continue this discussion...

I have a Cheetah shifter. RMVB 727 trans. The Cheetah cable exits the front of the shifter but turns and goes rearward. It turns again in front of the trans cross member and enters the trans from the rear. VERY simple cable routing well away from heat/headers. 4 years now on the cable without issues. The rear cable entry at the trans makes the adjustments much easier as well (once I installed mine, I've never had to make any adjustments).

As for missed shifts, I've found that you can do it if you rest your hand on the shifter and "pull" a shift. But if my hand is over the shifter and I just smack it, I've never had a shift issue. I'm a fan! But the Winters shifter mentioned above is also a cool piece.

 

[33IMP]

For the OP...and to continue this discussion...

I have a Cheetah shifter. RMVB 727 trans. The Cheetah cable exits the front of the shifter but turns and goes rearward. It turns again in front of the trans cross member and enters the trans from the rear. VERY simple cable routing well away from heat/headers. 4 years now on the cable without issues. The rear cable entry at the trans makes the adjustments much easier as well (once I installed mine, I've never had to make any adjustments).

As for missed shifts, I've found that you can do it if you rest your hand on the shifter and "pull" a shift. But if my hand is over the shifter and I just smack it, I've never had a shift issue. I'm a fan! But the Winters shifter mentioned above is also a cool piece.

Yep. My cheetah was an absolutely solid shifter, but it wasn't fool (me!) proof. If I tugged the handle, I'd occasionally get 1-3. If I was paying attention, and just tapped the handle, 1-2 every time.
I redid the rvmb 727 plate with a forward pattern glide plate, and it was flawless from then on, in a different car.
I replaced it with a pro ratchet, which I like enough to have bought two more. No more 1-3.

 

[33IMP]

Okay, thank you for the explanation. I need to study up on a couple of things here. I haven't started this engine yet, so I haven't hurt anything yet! The shifter that is installed is a B&M pro rachet.
I will get back with you guys after I do a little more studying.
Thank you!
This is the shifter that I have.

View attachment 1716497272

View attachment 1716497273

If you can figure out the routing......
I LOVE my pro ratchets! I have three of em, but I bought em when they were $200.

I did cook a cable during solid lifter cam break-in. No problems since. Routing is critical. The wrap on the cable is a great idea. So is a wrap on the headers near the cable. I would not wrap the whole header.

 

[CRUZE 418]

Okay. Here are 3 pictures of how it is. I have about 2 inches at the closest point, cable to exhaust tube. I looked again, no way that I can run the cable over the trans to the shift cable bracket. So, if this doesn't work out, I will have to buy another expensive shifter, probably the ppp, and go around the back. Also found out that 1st and 3rd were not where I thought they were.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the learning curve. Yeah, this is a '69 Road Runner, my other two cars are A body's.
Thank you again.
Going to change out that safety wire for something else, it will work, but just doesn't look good.

 

[Johnny Mac]

Race use, or street?
Look into a Winters sidewinder. Been around for fifty years, solid as a rock, rear cable entry, part #s for 727/904 only, not universal, forward or reverse patterns available

And a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the similar cheetah, and comes with a cover, unlike the cheetah.

For RACE use, I'd probably pick something else. I made a few too many 1-3-2-3 shift adventures with my cheetah.

I absolutely despised my cheetah shifter for this reason. I couldn't rip it back out fast enough.

 

[Mike69cuda]

I have a B&M Quick silver I’ll make you a deal on if it works for you. I bought a new one because I thought mine was bad. I replaced the shifter and it turned out to be a fried cable. PM me if interested.