Air Compressor Setup?

[bkbond12]

Hello Everyone,
So I'm finally going to install my air compressor. I know that run length, piping diameter, and everything can affect air pressure etc, but I don't know how badly, because I've never had a nice air compressor.

I'm going to to run either 1/2" or 3/4" line and use a ball valve shortly after it exits the compressor. From there, I will be installing a filter and possibly a hose reel or coupler port. I will then pipe it over my door frame with a catch drop and ball valve on the other side. I will be installing two coupler ports and a 'T' that runs overhead to a hose reel in the center of my pole barn. I will continue the original horizontal run and end just past my hoist with another reel.

I'm probably going to be using black pipe because it's cheaper than copper and it's sturdy. Will the setup work well, or will I need to change anything? I can place the air compressor on the other end if it would work better. Let me know guys. Thanks.

 

[67Dart273]

"Pitch" the pipe 1/4" / foot as you would a drain pipe, to cause moisture to run towards one end. So even though it doesn't look "square," come up right near the compressor, over the door, run a "double elbow" (for swivel) at the top, and then pitch it all the way down, and low at the other end. Put your last trap and drain at the far, lower end

Use tees pointing either up and then elbow'd out for the outlets, or pointing out and then come out with a second tee, up down. Up and elbow out for the outlet, then down with a length of pipe for a trap. On the traps, you can drill/ tap the cap or use a bell, and put the little radiator style "bowtie" drain cocks in

Your hose reels you cannot do much about. 'Bout all you can do there, is put a large trap at the connection point and go ahead and plumb them.

Be careful if you use a hose from the compressor to the piping. Some hose will not stand up. If you have a "hose place" in your town consult them about that

Be sure to "rig" the drain on the compressor for easy, convenient, frequent drains, or buy one of the "automatic drain" products.

I'm a HUGE believer in NOT leaving power on a compressor overnight. If you cannot religiously remember to pull the disconnect, buy a time clock.

 

[memike]

Where will you put a water trap at ? I do a down drop then put a water trap in and then back up shaped like a U some where near the middle, a water trap before the regulator is a must do.
1/2 schedule 40 has PVC has been flawless for me.

Looks like I was slow posting 67Dart723 has you fixed up

 

[bkbond12]

Where will you put a water trap at ? I do a down drop then put a water trap in and then back up shaped like a U some where near the middle A water trap before the regulator
1/2 schedule 40 has PVC has been flawless for me.

I was going to put a water trap/filter immediately after the compressor. Now that you mention the 'U' shape, I've seen that before. I just looked at my diagram and realized that I labeled it as a regulator. I was doing a little reading and correct me if I'm wrong, but I prolly won't need to use a regulator.

I plan on using the compressor the most for an impact, ratchet, air hammer/chisel and maybe a cutoff wheel. Possibly down the road, I'll use a sander and sprayer, but I'm sure that will be limited and a ways down the road.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You can get the regulator and filter in an all in one unit. But get a good one. The U trap is mega excellent advice. It puts the filter even lower in the system and makes trapping water even easier. I am a firm believer in draining the tank after EVERY single use, too.

 

[Speedracer3456]

Something else to consider is running the lines in a continuous circuit so you don't have any areas with pressure drops. Just running a return back from your farthest drop will keep the pressure equalized.

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

When I had my mattress factory I started with black iron pipe with a high quality dryer but I still had some condensation get down the lines but this may have been caused by the temperature differences where the pipe traveled. I had rust show up in my condensation so I changed everything to galvanized pipe. This time I added a 4 foot down pipe in the center of the U with a ball valve on it that went outside the shop for a blow off before the water trap and stopped all the moisture. Using galvanized pipe never contaminated anything in the paint system when I worked at Mercury Marine but I have no idea if it might with todays paint materials. I doubt if it will since they are still manufacturing air hose quick connectors with galvanized coatings today. BTW, I used 3/4 pipe and never had pressure issues with 4 work stations operating at the same time.