Air compressor system basics

[64ragtop]

I've got a big 220 volt compressor and read somewhere that I needed a regulator, filter & dryer. I cheaped out and went to HF and I suppose that was my big mistake. So, how much filtering and drying do I need to get nice clean DRY air to my tools and blast cabinet. There are prices all over the range and specifications I do not understand. Is there an "air compressor/tool basics" website or publication that can help figure this stuff out??

BC

 

[67Dart273]

Well, this gets very "backyard" or very complicated, "depending"

on what your local weather is, and just how dry you need. There are refrigeration dehumidifiers that costs hundreds or thousands of dollars.

Very first thing you need to do is "pitch" your piping so that there are no low spots. You want to pitch the piping just like plumbing drains "or more" IE 1/4" per foot or more. Put periodic drip legs, with drains on the bottoms.

Picture a long run (like I have, LOL) of hose, lying on the ground, on a cold, wet day. The compressor sucks in wet air, vaporizes it, and SOME of it remains airborne, does not condense in the tank, and carries out the hose, where, between tool uses, water condenses in the cool hose. This can generate a "trap" or "slug" of water which can, well. . ..... . .. make a big mess

Fairly effective is to come up with some sort of piping / tubing/ tank that is SAFE which you can use as a heat exchanger. "white lightnin' still" style. The basics of this are a tank, garbage can, etc, to hold water, with a coil of tube, an tank in the bottom to catch condensate, and some way to drain it daily.

The chemical dryers are fairly effective, use beads in what amounts to a water trap. I'd say they are fairly cost effective for some things. Probably NOT for a big blaster, as they use one heck of a lot of air.

Last, SAFETY. Don't use old, rusty, unknown tanks unless you are willing to hydrotest them

 

[sireland67]

I assume that you are hard plumbing the garage so you will want to run the line up from the compressor, across the celing and at every drop install a trap for the moisture.

 

[72Dodge]

Best to get a minimum of about 20-25' of hard plumbing, angled slightly downhill toward the tank like 67 said, then put the moisture trap/filter at the end. There's a lot of factors at play. Don't be tempted to use PVC for your hard lines, best is copper if possible.

 

[lowbudget]

Here's a good piping basics. http://www.tptools.com/Modular-Metal-Piping-Kits,2035.html?b=d*8092

 

[ducter]

Basically you have a few options from fairly cheap to fairly expensive. Here's what I did after doing research for a while.

Oh, another addition I haven't done yet is to get some copper tubing, 15-20 foot from Lowe's etc. and disconnect your line coming from the pump and run it into the copper spiralled on the wall then into the tank. Cooling the air as much as you can before it gets to the tank. I haven't had the need for that so haven't done it. With that said, I have a 3 foot rubber line coming off the compressor to absorb the vibration running into about 30 foot of 3/4 black pipe angled away from the compressor. It's been debated if angling the pipe back to the compressor or away from the compressor is better, IMO away is better else your continually fighting the same moisture over and over if you allow it back to the tank. My garage set up didn't allow for a straight run of pipe so it runs up one side and back down the other. It's important at the end of your run that you have a section going up then down and you would connect your hose in the middle with a motorguard filter, thats my basic setup and havent had an issue with moisture even in humid NC.

Think I have an image explaining what I am trying to say.. let me look for it. I attached the pdf I used for reference when doing mine, also heres the site for it.

 

[64ragtop]

Thanks for the reply, ducter. I'm still gathering info, and the project is shaping up in my mind. Your diagram is a bit different than another one that I found, but there are similar principles. I keep getting different opinions from folks on the forum which tells me that their setups WORK. Then there's always the old line about opinions: They are like rectal orfices - everyone has one, they're all different and they all stink except MINE!

One rather big issue in my mind is the black iron pipe. Knowing that it'll never blow out and properly fitted, it won't leak but that stuff is heavy, and not cheap! The RapidAir system looks really nice, economical, and well recommended (by the folks who sell it!)
I did find this note on the Rapid Air site: "ATTENTION HARBOR FREIGHT SHOPPERS Please be aware that Harbor Freight has copied the Rapidair system. This is not our product in their stores. We have had numerous phone calls about the poor quality of this system. You get what you pay for. Buying the original RAPIDAIR brand will provide the highest quality and longest lasting product - See more at: http://rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp#sthash.SmFamBsL.dpuf."

BC

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

I plumed my garage from the comp up across the ceiling and at each drop down air quick connect I continued the piping past the quick connect to just above the floor and install a drain bib. Now when i forget to drain it periodically, I get water through my air tools and reminds me to drain the line "dummy"

 

[ducter]

I suppose what it boils down to is many ways to skin a cat. I have maybe 100 bucks in cost of the piping, elbows, valves and so on but was worth it to me and far less expensive then copper, not sure what you were looking at rapidair cause I couldn't get the link to open but looking on their site I see kits for 130 something, if it works well doesn't seem to bad.

Roy, that's what I have are drip legs running past where I connect. I am in the habit of walking by and just quick twist of the valve to dump any water, gotten to where I have actually flipped the valve the other day when I went to the garage to get a screw driver for the wife... wasn't even on lol.

 

[72Dodge]

I just used black pipe because copper was too spendy, I don't think I could have spent much over $100 for 25' plus the T's, fittings. I don't remember for sure, but it didn't break the bank. Of course your filters are going to be over and above that, don't skimp there.

That rapidair system looks sort of intriguing. It's only good to 150psi, as long as you're careful that should be ok. I'd be afraid of it bursting or a connection letting go, but I guess if rubber bursts it wouldn't do much damage (???). One benefit seems that it won't corrode/rust inside.