Air Punch Flange Tool

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MattR

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Does any one have any comments about using an Air Punch Flange Tool and then spot welding the quarter panels? I have heard that it could possibly rust from the back end. Both sides of my Duster need lower quarter panel work, in front and in back of the rear wheels. I would love to just buy two new full panels for $1000 but that's not in the budget. I though about trying to form them myself.
 
Curious myself about using one for replacing floor pans.
 
I love them! But don't spend $1000 for a tool that you won't use all the time! I got mine new at a swapmeet from one of those tool vendors for around $60, it isn't Snapon quality but I have never had a problem with it. I also use weld thu primer on both side of the flange.
 
I bought mine from Harbour Frieght for $29.00 on sale.
Works well, I can't speak to the rust issue.
 
If you have any amount of flanging to do, get one. They're worth it compared to doing it by hand. Also, they're typically available in two punch sizes. Get the larger of the two if you can. The smaller one is a little too small to do decent plug welds. You shouldn't have problems with rust if you can properly seal up the back side of the seam. Primer and a generous amount of seam sealer should do it.
 
I also saw the one at Harbor Freight for $29. Based on the positive comments, I'll stop by and pick one up. Where do you pick up seam sealer? Are some brands better then others? Nice Red Duster. I can only dream of mine looking like that some day.
 
Hope the larger one from HF has a deeper throat than the smaller one. If you don't buy AMD, you will be sorry, only ones that fit (70 Duster and 69 Charger) worked great; previous crap was thrown away after hours of trying to make it work.
Butt-weld it, and undercoat the back.
 
Tried it; flanging leaves an ugly to deal with line, and invites rust. Buttweld it.
 
70Duster440 said:
If you have any amount of flanging to do, get one. They're worth it compared to doing it by hand. Also, they're typically available in two punch sizes. Get the larger of the two if you can. The smaller one is a little too small to do decent plug welds. You shouldn't have problems with rust if you can properly seal up the back side of the seam. Primer and a generous amount of seam sealer should do it.
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I agree. I have some penetrating rust preventer I spray in the seam on the back side before sealing it off. Lots of different seam sealers out there. I've used 3M 'fast and firm' and some from Kent.
Buttwelding is the 'preferred' method if you are a good welder. However, I'm getting too shaky and blind to do a nice job anymore! :angry7:
Dallas
BTW, I don't punch holes on quarter or patch panels and weld through them. I flange them, then make my patch (or grind my panel) just a little bit small so it leaves a little 'valley' between the panels on the flanged area. I then tack it in this valley. Works better than building up the weld on the outside and possibly grinding it too thin when you finish it. Keep skipping around with your tack welds until it's welded solid. Take your time and it won't warp.
Just curious Matt, where are you located in MO?
 
When I did my quarter I flanged the upper sheetmetal just below the body line and held it in place with sheetmetal screws - did not punch holes. After welding the seam I plug welded the holes shut. I used brushable seam sealer on the back - easy to work with. You should be able to order online or pick it up at your local auto body supplier. You can use the 3m stuff in a caulk gun. Most of the two part sealers require a special/expensive dispensing gun.

As an alternative to butt welding or flanging, I know some body guys will use a backing strip: http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml
 

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DO NOT flange your 1/4' patches, Butt weld them or you will be doing it again in a year!
Do it right , do it once!
 
and here I thought I had my decision made. I don't know how to weld yet and was going to get someone where I work to spot weld the panels. I don't know if I can convince them to spend that many hours on 4 panels, front and back of the rear wheels. $1000 plus freight is not in the budget for full AMD panels. Partial panels are still $600 plus a lot of welding time. But on the otherhand, I don't want rust a year from now. There must be a way to do the job right removing any future potential rust issue. If I punch holes, use weldable primer on both panels, spot weld and putty, put seam sealer on the back, plus undercoat, shouldn't that take care of the potential rust issue? I live near Washington, MO
 
you could flange it and use auto body adhesive.
With the new technology in adhesive even the auto manufacturer use it as long as it's not use for structural components.
You don't have to worry about rust if you're just patching.
 
MattR said:
and here I thought I had my decision made. I don't know how to weld yet and was going to get someone where I work to spot weld the panels. I don't know if I can convince them to spend that many hours on 4 panels, front and back of the rear wheels. $1000 plus freight is not in the budget for full AMD panels. Partial panels are still $600 plus a lot of welding time. But on the otherhand, I don't want rust a year from now. There must be a way to do the job right removing any future potential rust issue. If I punch holes, use weldable primer on both panels, spot weld and putty, put seam sealer on the back, plus undercoat, shouldn't that take care of the potential rust issue? I live near Washington, MO
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Flanging does not mean you will automatically have rust problems down the road. There is a greater potential for rust compared to butt welding, but it needn't summarily be dismissed. I certainly wouldn't do it where you can't get to the back side. And, a rookie welder doing butt seams in sheetmetal can quickly end up with a warped mess.

What can't be argued is the necessity to remove cancerous metal (corrosion that goes all the way through the metal - even if it's not readily visible). Covering that up will result in bubbled paint and more rust in short order. So whether you replace an entire quarter (which is not always the best thing to do) or simply cut and patch the damage will depend on time, budget, and the value of the car.

The only reason I replaced the one quarter is because someone had replaced it once already years ago following a wreck! They cut out the damage, lap welded the seams, them beat them down before lathering bondo on. The wheelhouse was still crinkled and no attempts were made to seal anything so water got in and rotted it. I cut out some rot behind the driver side rear wheel and butt welded a patch in.

Panel bonding or a combination of bonding and welding is worth considering. There is the potential for bond-only seams to ghost through the finish as it expands and contracts though.
 
70Duster440 said:
Flanging does not mean you will automatically have rust problems down the road. There is a greater potential for rust compared to butt welding, but it needn't summarily be dismissed. I certainly wouldn't do it where you can't get to the back side. And, a rookie welder doing butt seams in sheetmetal can quickly end up with a warped mess.

What can't be argued is the necessity to remove cancerous metal (corrosion that goes all the way through the metal - even if it's not readily visible). Covering that up will result in bubbled paint and more rust in short order. So whether you replace an entire quarter (which is not always the best thing to do) or simply cut and patch the damage will depend on time, budget, and the value of the car.

The only reason I replaced the one quarter is because someone had replaced it once already years ago following a wreck! They cut out the damage, lap welded the seams, them beat them down before lathering bondo on. The wheelhouse was still crinkled and no attempts were made to seal anything so water got in and rotted it. I cut out some rot behind the driver side rear wheel and butt welded a patch in.

Panel bonding or a combination of bonding and welding is worth considering. There is the potential for bond-only seams to ghost through the finish as it expands and contracts though.
Click to expand...

Very true.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I still need to cut away the damaged parts and see how much work is involved. That is once I can move in my garage. Someone riveted a panel over the old rusting one. Even me being a novice would know better than that.
 
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