Alignment Shop in SoCal

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What area in So Cal?


In South Bay:

Cars Muffler and Automotive Artesia 2617 Artesia Blvd. Redondo Beach, CA. 90278 (310) 371-7055.
They just did the alignment on my Barracuda recently to my custom specs. Brett did a great job, and the Cuda was awesome at Willow Springs. Older cars don't bother them at all. They do custom exhaust too, many Edlebrock project cars are done here. Say hi to everyone there for me.

Westside:

Bagge and Son 10417 Washington Blvd. Culver City, California 90232 (310) 838-8485 http://www.baggeandson.com/
They did my brothers 70 Mustang a month ago and did some suspension repair. They have done my Barracuda in the past to my custom specs. My dad has been going there for over 40 years.

I just saw the pics of your custom Valiant. Thats incredible :tongue9: Haven't seen it at the shows, like to see it in person.

Anyways, those two shops constantly work on cars of that caliber and that custom. And that's not very typical at all. And I have been into almost every shop from Santa Monica to Hollywood down all the way down to San Pedro and Long Beach because of my line of work.

There's probably some shops in OC that are as good and that one could trust with a car like that. But I don't know them nor know them as intimately as these two shops.

I did do some educated searching on the internet for alignment shops. I search autocross, racing, racing club alignments.

I have found good responses from CLARKS HOUSE OF SUPENSION
26901 Vista Terrace
Lake Forest CA
949.768.6261
Clark Smith

http://new.socalm.org/Vendor_s.html
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8747
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-132547.html
http://race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?p=50774
http://forums.focaljet.com/5549359-post4.html
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92618 (7th thread down)
http://forums.audiworld.com/socal/msgs/14089.phtml
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerorss?t=1948465

djennison05-09-2007, 06:16 PM
i tried to get my car alligned and shops kept turning me away cause the car was lowered... said they didn't want to take the risk of breaking anything when putting it on the rack

Go to Clarks House of Suspension in Lake Forest. He doesnt use lifts. His setup is sunk into the ground.

+1 For Clarks!

It sound like the owner could be a little grumpy to deal with. Just read that in one response.

Dave's Alignment in Hunington Beach also came up for OC alignment shops.

So I would start asking around about Clarks and Dave's and or stop by them at try to be super observant for a little bit (without bothering them in the shop). Sound's like Clarks is closer to you?

Get something with like 1/16 toe in, 3-5 degress positive caster, and 1 deg negative camber (for fairly agressive cornering)
 
Thanks for the info. I just dropped it off at a place in Riverside called Dave's that will fiddle with it with some TLC. Seems to know what he is doing and has the patience needed. If that doesn't work out I will try Lake Forest. I live in OC.
 
fwaugh said:
Thanks for the info. I just dropped it off at a place in Riverside called Dave's that will fiddle with it with some TLC. Seems to know what he is doing and has the patience needed. If that doesn't work out I will try Lake Forest. I live in OC.
Click to expand...


Tell us how it works out. And how much? Some of these alignment shops try to rape you for anything more than a "toe n go".

That car should cost as much as any 4 wheel alignment. Who's 4 link rear do you have?

Did this shop say it was going to take a lot of time and it was going to be a project? Sometimes that's a setup for $$$. What was the estimate??
 
We installed air ride triangular 4 link. Custom install. Works great but already ripped up the frame once and had to reiinforce. I drive it hard. This alignment guy is a hot rod guy and one man show. If you saw his shop you would know he is not in the business of ripping people off. Old school with no fancy equipment. He called me and said he was going to get the camber from -3 to -1/4. Everyone tells me -1 is the way to go on camber and +3 to +5 on caster. I have real tight clearance issues with the 18 inch wheels/2 inch drop spindels and will hope to get the -1 camber without problems.
 
fwaugh said:
We installed air ride triangular 4 link. Custom install. Works great but already ripped up the frame once and had to reiinforce. I drive it hard. This alignment guy is a hot rod guy and one man show. If you saw his shop you would know he is not in the business of ripping people off. Old school with no fancy equipment. He called me and said he was going to get the camber from -3 to -1/4. Everyone tells me -1 is the way to go on camber and +3 to +5 on caster. I have real tight clearance issues with the 18 inch wheels/2 inch drop spindels and will hope to get the -1 camber without problems.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't run -3 camber on the street is you drive it. -1 would be fine. And +3 caster is fine too. You are right, messing with alignments can cause new tire interference on tight tire situation cars.

Did Air Ride tell or recomend you reinforce the areas when you use their 4 link setup??
 
Steve, forgive me for jumping in on your conversation, but seeing your 68 brings back fond memories from long ago. I really miss that car. Fortunately I finally got another Mopar, and now need to find parts, and start the process of making it mine. 2nd childhood thing, or mid-life crisis? Who knows, but my wife calls it my chickmobile. Later guys
 
With the 7000 series you must run with tbars or the bags will not hold up front end. They have larger bags that will hold up the front end but those bags will not fit. If they did fit then you must support shock towers before removing t bars. I am hoping to convert to a rack early next year. I bought the cap k member www.capautoproducts.com for clearance and looks with a stock setup. Cap is working on a rack set up that will fab onto their existing kmember. I would love to get rid of the tbars. If they dont get the rack for it then I will probably go to the alterk from RMS. $$$$$
 
In Air Rides' Triangular 4 link setup, did they suggest reinforcing the frame?

I run into others that are looking into this setup and I just want to pass along you experiances and suggustions.

fwaugh said:
With the 7000 series you must run with tbars or the bags will not hold up front end. They have larger bags that will hold up the front end but those bags will not fit. If they did fit then you must support shock towers before removing t bars. I am hoping to convert to a rack early next year. I bought the cap k member www.capautoproducts.com for clearance and looks with a stock setup. Cap is working on a rack set up that will fab onto their existing kmember. I would love to get rid of the tbars. If they dont get the rack for it then I will probably go to the alterk from RMS. $$$$$
Click to expand...
 
I dont remember any specific instructions on reinforcing the rear frame. My frame is solid no rust and I was surprised it split like a tin can. The fabrication and bracketry held up but I would say the bracketry should have more contact with the frame to lengthen the stresses. I also think straight down the track is good to go but when heavy cornering the tri 4 link can really pull on the frame rails. When I get it back on the lift I will take some good pix for you.

Here is a list of the main stuff.

Superior Automotive (Anaheim) Balanced 408 Stroker/ 727 Manual reverse
Runs 440 RWHP with Eddy heads,intake, and carb.

Cap Tubular K Member, Tie Rod sleeves, front strut rods
RMS- Tubular adjustable UCA
Firm Feel - Sway Bar, Stage 2 PS Box, LCA Reinfoce Plates
Air Ride - Ride Pro with 7000 on all 4. Triangular 4 Link
.90 TBars
TTI Headers Ceramic Polished
Boyd 18" Smoothie2 Front 225/40 With 5 1/4 BS
Back 285/35
FatMan 2" Drop Spindles
10" Disc Break big ball joint on all 4
Stock Column and Linkage
Momo Competition steering Wheel
 
fwaugh,

Any update on you alignment?

Hows the progress?

Things going as expected?
 
This guy in Riverside seems to know his stuff and has the patience I am looking for. We have some fabrication to finish up this weekend on the kmember and should have a final result next week. Will let you know how it comes out.
 
the pre 66 and the 67 A-bodies suffer from the stud mounted idler.


You could add a strap to the top and use the 68-72 idler. Mike at www.teamstarfish.com did that.

Here's my 73-76 modified K-member:

Kmb2Lt.jpg


Kmbrprep.jpg


KmbrAssy.jpg
 
Ok we finally got everthing together and I am very happy with the results. The alignment guy I found is thorough and patient. The air ride is working real well and would recomnend for anyone that wants the adjustablilty on the fly. Air Ride will not work without tubular uppers and altering the gas tank. The bags are just too big. The four link is really clean and easy to adjust. I am a big fan but make sure you reinforce the frame if you do it.
 
fwaugh said:
Ok we finally got everthing together and I am very happy with the results. The alignment guy I found is thorough and patient. The air ride is working real well and would recomnend for anyone that wants the adjustablilty on the fly. Air Ride will not work without tubular uppers and altering the gas tank. The bags are just too big. The four link is really clean and easy to adjust. I am a big fan but make sure you reinforce the frame if you do it.
Click to expand...

How much did he charge and for what?

What alignment numbers were you able to get out of it?
 
Best $100 a have spent on this car. He set -1 camber and I think 3-5 on the caster. Car drives better than ever. I need to take it back for recheck of toe because we had to reinstall idler arm and he said no charge for the recheck.
 
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