Almost street worthy. Need some suggestions.

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3

340Dust-her

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Mar 14, 2008
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Location
Fresh meadows ny
1971 plymouth Duster
68' 340 engine from a plymouth Barricuda
73' rearend w/ 3:55 gears 7 1/4 rear.
904 automatic transmission

First off, the car has had its issues. The valve guides have never been replaced and are original. I've been runing unleaded gas for some time and so far its been OK. I'm on a real tight budget so I've been working on it here and there. I redid the whole brake setup on the rear and front end suspension. I plan on taking it to my friends shop to have the transmission rebuilt. Upon inspection I noticed that it starte leaking coolant by the driver side header. Looks like a brass coolant plug by the engine block :(. Since I need to replace the engine mounts, I plan on having them replace the plugs as well. Anyone know where I can find a set besides an engine shop? I also need a rear differential cover gasket. Felpro part# would be nice. Lastly, can anyone recommend a decent set of headers? I believe the ones on the car are cheapo hooker and since I'll be raising the engine to replace the plugs, might as well install a set of decent LONG tube headers. Nothing expensive, somethingt that'll work. thanks in advance.
 
the lead in the gas i believe is 4 the valve seats, not the guides. u can buy lead additive in a small bottle at most parts stores. u should also be able to get the brass plugs at a local parts store . a lot of people just use a good rtv silicone 4 the rear diff cover but that is your choice. go easy on that 7 1/4 because im pretty sure your 340 can kill it doin burnouts up and down the street. have fun.
 
I don't plan on beating on it,lol. I just want to cruise and enjoy the summer driving off to the beach and back. I'm afraid using RTV for the differential. Last thing I want is anything leaking on the highway.
 
A local dealer should have all the parts as well as a local auto parts store.
If you need any help, drop me a PM. I'm not that far away. (The bike gets 50 mpg's anyways.)
You can look at sumittracing on line to get prices and compare vs. local stores.

As far as headers go, it is sad to say it is a crap shoot on the run when they make'em. I have had all sorts of different manufactures headers on my old Duster and Cuda. Black Jacks were the worst. Total nightmare. The best were a toss up between the sumittracings, headmans and hookers.

I currently have Hooker Comp's, not super comps on my ride. The steering box's lower bolt had a minor interfearance. More likely due to the engine swap. /6 to 318. Engine alignment may not have been perfect.

Click here to see; http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508&page=1&pp=20
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=36648

Current thread on header fitment;
Otherwise, rtv has been good for me in the past. Let it cure up abit before sealing.
 
Found a gasket, thew everything together and she moves. I see headers are a PITA since you'll have to jack the engine up and dislocate the tierod etc. Thanks for the help.
 
Yea, headers are a headache and a pain to put in. The tti's are the only ones I know off that do not have any pipes running under the front end linkages. Fit and performance reviews writin here are great. PIctures are excellent. Price is the only scarry thing, but worth it in the long run. You can also get a full exhaust set up from them. End to end, headers or not.
 
I just purchased a set of "Summit" headers for my application. While its only 18-gauge steel, think It'll hold up in quality and not be difficult in installation?
 
Personally for your application I would have gone with manifolds. I just installed those summit headers in my valiant . It was by far the most difficult part of the whole rebuild of the car. you have to take the drag link apart and slip one tube of the header through it. you will have to pull the engine out. If you can get the passenger side header in without removing the motor you are the man.
 
This is the best way I've found to seal diff covers: eBay item# 120267012507
Smear a thin layer on each clean surface, assemble w/bolts finger tight, wait a day and torque down. Never a leak. Most any RTV will work well the same way, but this stuff is the best.
 
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