Aluminium block

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twodoorsedan

twodoorsedan

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Hello!
Need to Ask a question of it’s possible to change cylinders in an aluminium block?...and if,,who sells?
Kindly.
 
Sleeves are sold to replace damaged cylinders. Block has to be bored to fit new sleeve, so talk to engine rebuilders wherever you are, Sweden?
 
The liners are cast in.

If the tops are corroded...you're stuck with filling the block...or trying weld around the liner tops and mill flat so they have more of a flange.
Chances are they will warp and will be a pain in the a$$ process.

Block fill with oil cooler. Can maybe make out of wax some cooling path rings around the cylinders 2/3 up.
 
Dutra tried to make a "deck" on one somehow.....I don't know exactly how he did it, but it didn't work. It ended up being a mess......that said, how else you gonna find out? I'm sure, being aluminum, there's a way to do it, but boy, talk about a cost outlay. What would you use? 5/8" 7075 plate? 6061? I don't know "much" about aluminum. I guess you'd need to determine "what" the block is made of and try to find the same. Even a very gifted TIG welder would have to be careful alternating back and forth so as not to over heat and warp the cylinders. I've always thought it might be interesting to bore the cylinders completely out and go with a slide in cylinder, similar to what older tractors have. They just basically slide in with your hand and the head holds them in. It would be a very costly and time consuming operation.....unless of course you could do it all yourself.
 
I have never heard about anyone replacing one. They are cast in so not the same as a cast iron block having one installed.
Is your split, cracked or corroded?
Alum-block-top.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
Dutra tried to make a "deck" on one somehow.....I don't know exactly how he did it, but it didn't work. It ended up being a mess......that said, how else you gonna find out? I'm sure, being aluminum, there's a way to do it, but boy, talk about a cost outlay. What would you use? 5/8" 7075 plate? 6061? I don't know "much" about aluminum. I guess you'd need to determine "what" the block is made of and try to find the same. Even a very gifted TIG welder would have to be careful alternating back and forth so as not to over heat and warp the cylinders. I've always thought it might be interesting to bore the cylinders completely out and go with a slide in cylinder, similar to what older tractors have. They just basically slide in with your hand and the head holds them in. It would be a very costly and time consuming operation.....unless of course you could do it all yourself.
Click to expand...
To my knowledge...you cannot sleeve one.
Just looking at one in front of you...you would immediately 'see' the problem. The aluminum isnt thick to start with.

That's why filling and maybe some wax to make internal channels to cool some.
Most of the heat is up at the top and the Chamber anyways so it's like the last inch or two of the cylinder that really needs water and unfortunately that will have to be filled. Chicken wire, block fill and some candle wax or something to melt out and leave a coolant passage around the cyls
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
To my knowledge...you cannot sleeve one.
Just looking at one in front of you...you would immediately 'see' the problem. The aluminum isnt thick to start with.

That's why filling and maybe some wax to make internal channels to cool some.
Most of the heat is up at the top and the Chamber anyways so it's like the last inch or two of the cylinder that really needs water and unfortunately that will have to be filled. Chicken wire, block fill and some candle wax or something to melt out and leave a coolant passage around the cyls
Click to expand...

"Or something" for sure. Candle wax? You think that'd stay put? I don't really understand what what you're talkin about......not that it matters. It's not like I'll ever have one. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
"Or something" for sure. Candle wax? You think that'd stay put? I don't really understand what what you're talkin about......not that it matters. It's not like I'll ever have one. lol
Click to expand...
The idea was to something that could Melt Away easily and leave a passage.

Could just incorporate plumbing and then cut the pipe , seam wise down the middle to then rtv seal to the cyl.. just for the block fill n dry process.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The idea was to you something that could Melt Away easily and leave a passage
Click to expand...

Right. That much I got. It would be tricky. Might even be worth cutting one whole side, or both sides of the block off, make the mods and weld it (them) back on.
 
Dutra had cut away the aluminum around the tops of the iron cylinder walls to press on these little flange tops and did it without them moving around I guess and somehow had them .002 interference side by side.

And then he put some cast crank shitty *** ******* rods in it and some other crap and blew it to pieces.
 
If only They had put more aluminum around the cylinder but I guess they were worried about transfer in regards to thickness of the aluminum.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
If only They had put more aluminum around the cylinder but I guess they were worried about transfer in regards to thickness of the aluminum.
Click to expand...

How thick are the cylinders? Both the steel sleeves and the aluminum? Do you have a rough guess? Are the steel sleeves pressed in? Cast in?
 
RustyRatRod said:
How thick are the cylinders? Both the steel sleeves and the aluminum? Do you have a rough guess? Are the steel sleeves pressed in? Cast in?
Click to expand...
They're cast in. .080 thick or so. Aluminum around is less thick and usually separates at the top and or chips/corrodes away.
That's why the head gasket is more prone to leak and why filling it up is what/where I'm heading with mine.
I'll see if I can dig my AL225 out and measure the liners
 
Guys!!!
This is great!!Thanks for all...
One sleeve is broken in the top,quite badly ,the 5 others looks ok..But it seems like quite an effort to change it..
Complete engine but not cheap..
 
IMHO- if you need to save the block.
First tig weld the pice back in as closely as possible. Aluminum and coolant (coolant from back then was way more corrosive to aluminum then today’s coolant.) So the tig welder has to adjust for that as aluminum is like a sponge and will have absorbed stuff from the coolant. Look at when you change a aluminum water pump off an old engine that has sat for a while. A lot of junk and part of the pump is corroded heavily.
Once tig welded the machine shop will bore the cylinder for a press in sleeve. Then cut a lip in the top for the sleeve. An undersized piston may be an option. They will freeze the new liner when pressing in to a hot block to allow to press fit. DONOT allow the top hat to be cut from the sleeve. This - when compressed allows the sleeve to stay in place when the head is bolted down. The block will be decked to make sure all is square. Undersized pistons are typically custom made. Not cheap.

The other option is most of above but have a groove cut into the cylinder and a o ring is put in the groove and the cylinder pressed thru that like liners on a diesel tractor engine. Both are a lot of labor and skill.

hope this helps- Syleng1
 
In my opinion that block is unsalvagable.
 
I agree with rustyratrod that block is junk. With enough money it might be saved but you could probably buy another for a lot less even with shipping. Keep us posted, I'm curious about repair possibilities outlined in prior posts.
 
I used to install the wet sleeves in the old tractors back when I worked for an allis chalmers dealer. That was a nice arrangement, sure made rebuilding easy. Never seen wet sleeves on an automotive engine before.
 
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