Aluminum case 833 identification

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CodyS

CodyS

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I bought an aluminum case 833 transmission on a consignment auction for $50 with a couple of mopar alternators. It has 833 and the date from 1983 it was built on the raised pad on the passenger side. It has b/e shifter mounting locations on the tailshaft. The shifter is in the b body location with non overdrive rods on it. The shifter is a bayonet style with a non chrome shifter handle in it. My question is what would this 833 com out of since I can find no other numbers to go off of. I thought that all aluminum 4 speeds were overdrive units. Maybe a transmission pro can answer these questions for me.
Thanks Cody
 
Probably out of a pick-up truck.
If a 1x23 spline input, then a Dodge.
If a 10 spline, then a Chevy. ( IIRC these are 1.125 in diameter)
The guts are very similar, but not the same.
>The shifter may be an A-body, and, when it didn't fit, the PO gave it away with the box.

I installed a long tail just like that, into my 68 Barracuda, and built my own shifter mount, to use the rear mount, to set my shifter back between the buckets, IMO, just where the factory shouldda put it,lol.
The front shifter mount had to to be modified for clearance in the cross-member.
I had to make my own rods.
I raised the stick high enough ,to install the top shifter bolt in from the cab.
The factory boot fits but it wears out at that top bolt, being stretched as it is.
I used a very short; Mr.Gasket BANG! shifter.
Was it worth it?
Well I haven't missed a shift since I installed it, back in about 2004, even shifting at 7200. My knuckles have finally healed, and, a cup-holder fits on the hump now......
Now, if only the keys would stay in the ignition when I nail the gas.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Probably out of a pick-up truck.
If a 1x23 spline input, then a Dodge.
If a 10 spline, then a Chevy.
The guts are very similar, but not the same.
Click to expand...
I did not realize they put them in chevy pickups or dodge pickups in the 80s. I would think the shifter is too short for a pickup. I will have to measure and look at the splines on the input.
 
Pop the side-cover and you will instantly see the OD gears.
Alternatively, put the trans in "3rd" gear and compare the input turns to the output turns; if both the same, then it's an OD.

For the cost, you might have a steal there.
 
I had one out of a dodge ram with both mounts as you described. It was an overdrive unit with a 4spd shifter mounted on it and it was installed in a car. Guys would use them for overdrives years ago and keep the car shifter. You just have to shift from second to 4th position and then to third position for OD. Put on a show in first and second and still have the overdrive. It was a performance loss for the muscle cars but economy for those trips going far away for events. Years ago I mad and all aluminum 4spd for an a-body. But it used a small 904 style slip yoke.
 
I still have one of those slanty, 904-sized mainshafts.
and one alloy box with a steel front bushing installed

I might even have an A-body tail
I might even have enough parts to slam something A-body together.
 
CodyS said:
I bought an aluminum case 833 transmission on a consignment auction for $50 with a couple of mopar alternators. It has 833 and the date from 1983 it was built on the raised pad on the passenger side. It has b/e shifter mounting locations on the tailshaft. The shifter is in the b body location with non overdrive rods on it. The shifter is a bayonet style with a non chrome shifter handle in it. My question is what would this 833 com out of since I can find no other numbers to go off of. I thought that all aluminum 4 speeds were overdrive units. Maybe a transmission pro can answer these questions for me.
Thanks Cody
Click to expand...

Picture of the input shaft? Probably from Dodge pickup. Hurst Shifter should be the same as A Body, numbers on the reverse arm just swap handle. Tail housing is worth decent money, Gear set also. Will fit in a B or E body with front retainer change.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Pop the side-cover and you will instantly see the OD gears.
Alternatively, put the trans in "3rd" gear and compare the input turns to the output turns; if both the same, then it's an OD.

For the cost, you might have a steal there.
Click to expand...
I thought the 3 and 4 lever had to be pointing to the top of the transmission on OD transmissions and the 3 and 4 lever pointed down on a normal 4 speed.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I still have one of those slanty, 904-sized mainshafts.
and one alloy box with a steel front bushing installed

I might even have an A-body tail
I might even have enough parts to slam something A-body together.
Click to expand...
Cool you still have those parts.
I am trying to buy a aluminum A-body Direct Connection 18 spline off of a friend . He has two he never used. I picked up a 71 replacement 400 motor that has a forged crank to install in a neutral balance 71 4spd car. He had it in the Crate. I got it for my Road runner. I sold it to "1969383valiant" after I sold the Road runner. Its sitting here going to get built for Dave's Valiant. Very rare motor. Rolly, A friend bought some of these motors and parts years ago. I am waiting for the price on the trans and I am picking it up. What will I use it in. A 66 back A-body Gasser.

I bought the 69 Valiant to build a Gasser. I called East coast gassers because they had in their rules 67 Darts were allowed. Now they said "No" only 67 Novas. South east Gassers will allow it but we don't want to travel again to go racing.
 
Passon Perf. sold me a nice HD alloy case. It's been in Street-Duty since around 2004/2005 I forget. It's been taking everything I've been dishing out to it. But I only have a 367 with 177psi cranking pressure, and 430 hp by the 660 trapspeed. And the 325/50-15BFG DRs,I have found out, with my suspension, are no different than the 295/50-15 TAs; as in they spin forever, sorta pointing to the trans not seeing much in the way of stress,lol.
Good luck in all your strategies.
 
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