Aluminum Housing OD 4 speed

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nerd racing

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So I'm thinking I really don't want to cut the floor pan on my car like I'd have to with the T5 or T56 or even a 200R4 swap. it's the cleanest I've ever seen on cars I've owned (minus my brand new dd).

I had an 81 D150 with the Aluminum housing 4 speed with OD and that truck averaged 20 mpg. Granted that was a slant six truck, but I was able to peel the tires and have some fun with it and not hurt the trans.

I did a little searching online and I can get a trans and bellhousing pretty cheap. Has anyone put one of those in their early A body? Will it work with the Early A pedals and Z bar? I searched on here and know you would have to modify the shifter location (read new shift rods and shifter). I was thinking I could make an offset bracket and position the shifter to use the A body linkages. I also know the driveshaft would have to be custom, but I'm not so worried about that as I plan on losing the trunion joint and adding either an 8-3/4 or 9 inch rear end at the same time.
 
Thanks for the info!

I'm building more of a touring car, straight line speed is only important to me when it comes between corners ;)
 
An A or F body will bolt right in like it was made for it. Probably not much difference in price. Clutch linkage depends on the bellhousing, I assume A or F body OD. Brewers Performance has the 10.5 bellhousing clutch linkage worked out for an early A, http://www.brewersperformance.com/category10.asp . You can use the pedals and Z bar but you need to use their Bellhousing ballstud/bracket for 1963-66 A-body cars (when converting to 10.5" bellhousing), fits bellhousings with casting numbers 2843887, 2892482 and 3515734. Use with TS636 torque shaft, AK636 adjusting rod kit, FP484 clutch fork pivot, and CF702N clutch fork. I have never put a truck OD in my early A but have swapped the gears and main shaft into an A body 4 speed transmission. That is what is in my 66 Barracuda.
 
Sounds like you are building my car.
64 dart Convertible, 4 speed overdrive iron case.
10.5" center force clutch
most of the linkage and etc were purchased through Brewers. They are a world of help.
8 3/4 rear 3.55 Limited Slip
Us Tool sub-frame connector
power steering firm feel stage 2
Front and rear sway bars. Hellwig front
thinking about more stiffening from Firm feel. LA and K

Not sure what to do about the exhaust. Dougs ?
 
trapster said:
Sounds like you are building my car.
64 dart Convertible, 4 speed overdrive iron case.
10.5" center force clutch
most of the linkage and etc were purchased through Brewers. They are a world of help.
8 3/4 rear 3.55 Limited Slip
Us Tool sub-frame connector
power steering firm feel stage 2
Front and rear sway bars. Hellwig front
thinking about more stiffening from Firm feel. LA and K

Not sure what to do about the exhaust. Dougs ?
Click to expand...

I have Dougs on my car right now but they were a huge pain to install and because I had a used set it appears someone modified one of the tubes and I didn't know about it. Put the tube right in the way of the drag link. I had to cut and weld in a new tube. I will caution that the doug's headers do not play nicely with a 10" clutch fork from an install I read. I think mancini makes a shorter length fork that works with doug's headers and the 10 inch clutch though. I have also read that Doug's headers don't play nicely with power steering. I know on my manual steer car the tube that loops over the steering column is resting on my steering column right now. not happy about that. I am going to try and space the engine up with some grade 8 washers to see if that fixes my problems. If not I'm going to have to trim the steering column.
 
trapster said:
Sounds like you are building my car.
64 dart Convertible, 4 speed overdrive iron case.
10.5" center force clutch
most of the linkage and etc were purchased through Brewers. They are a world of help.
8 3/4 rear 3.55 Limited Slip
Us Tool sub-frame connector
power steering firm feel stage 2
Front and rear sway bars. Hellwig front
thinking about more stiffening from Firm feel. LA and K

Not sure what to do about the exhaust. Dougs ?
Click to expand...


Have you driven this yet?

I'm curious how the 3.55's play with the really low 1st in that 833OD.

My truck has what I presume to be 2.76, and the usefulness of first is questionable already. I definitely wouldn't run 3.91's behind an OD, and I was thinking 3.55's might be too much as well (act like a 6.xx:1 in first).

I've got 2.94's and 3.23's to try with mine.
 
A truck trans is also longer than a 904 or A body 4 speed so you will need to shorten the drive shaft.
 
I believe it is approximately 3-3/8 of an inch longer. Also requires the 727 style slip yoke and u joint.
 
YY1 said:
Have you driven this yet?

I'm curious how the 3.55's play with the really low 1st in that 833OD.

My truck has what I presume to be 2.76, and the usefulness of first is questionable already. I definitely wouldn't run 3.91's behind an OD, and I was thinking 3.55's might be too much as well (act like a 6.xx:1 in first).

I've got 2.94's and 3.23's to try with mine.
Click to expand...



No I haven't, it is still getting put together. but it should be fun
 
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