1. 73dartswingerlover

    73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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    Still working on a 1973 dart swinger that my grandmother bought and my dad drove off the lot with her in.

    Originally it was a slant 6 and I was going to “restore” it all original (ish).

    I decided to go with a 360 out of a motor home with long tube headers and a intake and a edelbrock 600cfm carb so that I could turn on to my road without blocking traffic forever........

    I got a 8.75 SG rear with 3.23 gear and am planning to drive it as my only car......

    Is it going to be fine? I am not doing any cam or pistons etc at the moment.

    Is it going to have problems overheating or be a pain except for lack of AC?

    Ive already spent too much money (more than it will be worth outside of sentimental value) and dont want major headaches.

    I told the wife its gonna be fine and that it will run great but what should I honestly expect when its finally done?

    Can I drive it to Florida from NC without worry etc?
     
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    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod 30 Degrees Outta Whack

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      You'll need to upgrade the radiator and you know of course the slant six and small block do not share the same transmission.
       
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      • 73dartswingerlover

        73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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        Ohh yes thanks the guy working on my car has a new radiator and the engine came with a 727!
         
      • 73dartswingerlover

        73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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        I “think” i have all the parts and stuff lined up to make it work but im worried after i get it driving im going to be breaking down or overheating or some dumb stuff.

        Ive never had an “old car” and am trying to not look like a complete fool....
         
      • moparmat2000

        moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Old cars require fixing from time to time, however if you rebuild or replace all the major stuff that typically wears out using quality parts, that lessens the chances of breaking down. Dive in on Fabo, ask the questions as you go. Lots of knowledgable folks here who are willing to help out by sharing what they know.
         
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        • moparmat2000

          moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Heres a list of what you want to look at and replace if needed. Not necessarily in that order. Pick what you want to work on, collect up the parts, and advice from here and in your manuals, get a plan and then do it. Like maybe one weekend replacing the gas tank and sender if your noticing dirt and rust in the fuel filter. This way your car is down for a day or 2 then back on the road.

          Rock auto has good deals on stuff if you play their game right and get it loaded into one shopping cart. Ebay too if you can get free shipping. Is the car a power disc brake car? I do recommend learning to work on everything yourself. This will help you to where you can diagnose and fix anything that goes wrong with it.

          1. Fuel system
          Pump
          Metal Lines
          Rubber lines
          Filter
          Tank
          Carb
          Sender

          2. Brakes
          Master Cylinder
          Booster (if equipped)
          Metal lines
          Rubber lines
          Brakes at all 4 wheels
          Front wheel bearings (repack, replace)
          Front wheel bearing seals

          3. Cooling system
          Radiator
          Radiator Hoses
          Thermostat
          Heater hoses
          Heater core
          Water pump
          Drive belts

          4. Electrical
          Alternator
          Battery
          Switches and relays
          Starter motor
          Ammeter bypass
          Clean and tighten all connections
          Headlight relay mod (crackedback on fabo)
          HEI ignition mod (trailbeast on fabo)


          5. Suspension
          Bushings
          Ball joints
          Tie rod ends
          Pitman arm
          Idler arm
          Power Steering pump (if equipped)
          Power steering lines (if equipped)

          I have not gotten into engine and ignition systems yet.

          Some stuff on this list it makes better sense to upgrade, and may probably have been done such as the radiator you mentioned. I would assume when doing the engine install on a used 360 you changed out the core plugs (freeze plugs) on the sides, front, and back of the block if it's a used engine going in. If it hasn't been installed yet, get marine grade brass plugs. A kit is about $15. The originals are just steel. They will eventually leak and fail. They are easier to change when the engine is not in the car. I would also assume you put on a replacement water pump.

          Is the timing chain sloppy? I have a 1974 318 that used a "silent drive" timing setup. The cam gear was aluminum with nylon teeth. Sloppy as shit. Put on a new timing set. 1994 Dodge Dakota with 3.9L V6 used a really nice timing chain tensioner to keep slack out of the chain. This part will fit 318 and your 360, but isnt shown for a 318 or 360 in any stock parts catalogs. They are about $25

          A 1994 Dodge Dakota magnum V6 V8 starter motor is a good model. An aluminum Denso starter, Its half the size and weight of the OEM and has 2.25hp compared to 1.6hp of the original. It's a direct bolt in. Easier to get parts for only weighs about 7lbs I snagged one out of a 1994 ram van at my junkyard. It had a recent rebuilders tag on it, was recently gone thru. Payed $20 for it. These will be the same on ram van's with magnum V6 or V8 up to 2002.

          When doing rear brakes it makes sense to pull the rear axle shafts out and change out the axle seals. If the rear leaks differential oil from them after you have done your rear brakes, well your brake job will have to be done over again along with the seals.

          Again this isnt a complete list. Tackle stuff one project at a time so it's not overwhelming. If you make any changes over stock write it all down in a book in case you need replacement parts later. Upgrading with parts from other stuff is great, and works, but you dont want to forget what it came out of.

          Hope this helps
          Matt
           
          Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
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          • H22A4

            H22A4 Well-Known Member

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            Sounds like it will be a sweet diving car!

            However, to turn it into your daily diver, I suspect after a while, one or at the very most, two summers, you will want something with A/C? In the back of your mind the fuel economy/gas prices will also have you agitated as to why you’re sweating in your car for at least 1/4 of the year to push you over the edge and make it a weekend/evening cruiser.
             
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            • mopardug

              mopardug FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Won't he also need his driveshaft shortened with different yokes? What a nice place to start playing with cars :thumbsup:
               
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              • AJ/FormS

                AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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                It will be fine, mine has accumulated over 125,000 miles, with lots and lots of 7000 rpm blasts, lots of them.
                The problems are rarely powertrain or chassis related.The cooling system is probably Priority One. After that, usually just ignition, fuel, or bulkhead-connector; just keep it simple. Just a simple ignition system and simple fuel system

                As to cooling;
                Install new hoses, and new belts(carry a spare). Make sure you are running a quality thermostat.Make sure your cooling system is easily capable of handling whatever you are gonna run into.
                I'll tell you what I got cuz it works, but you can do whatever you like.
                I run an ancient A/C rad off a 1973 smogger-teen, with its shroud; and a Milodon Hi-flo HD waterpump with matching Hi-flo thermostat;and a hi-attack-angle,7-blade all-steel mechanical fan on a Ford Thermostatic clutch; and a low-pressure radcap cuz it's easy on the hoses. Mine is 7psi. I do not recommend that you run a 7# cap in Florida in summer, but I sure wouldn't run a 16 pounder. Water used to be the best coolant. I run it with an additive pkg..And you can find water almost anywhere. Hook up an expansion tank, or at least an overflow tank
                The best coolant is ridiculously expensive.
                For the fuel;
                use a new quality mechanical fuelpump and no electric only system. Then insulate the carb from heat and I prefer fresh air sealed to the airhorn so the carb can run as cool as possible.
                For the Ignition;
                just a regular Mopar electronic system, or equivalent and carry a spare ballast resistor and ECU. You don't need a fancy Multi-Strike CDI. For a coil,I use an Accell square-top SuperCoil that has well over 100,000 miles on it and was new in 2002, so I highly recommend that one with it's matching resistor.
                As to electrical;
                The bulkhead you can service now, passing each of the ammeter wires through it in one piece; with ends soldered
                If the regulator quits don't panic, you can run the alternator into a dying battery by jumpering the field wire to ground,just keep the rpm down. Keep the duty cycle to such that the voltage stays between about 13 to 14.5,and you, could drive a thousand miles. If the battery voltage rises past 15volts, start turning lights on, if it settles to 13.5 to 14.5, just drive; the lights are your regulator. If it gets over 15 with the light on, unplug the alternator. no big deal.. Start your trip with new brushes in the alternator, and a well-grounded regulator. Alternators rarely fail without warning. Even failing brushes give warning. Carry spare brake-lite bulbs; it ain't worth chancing a ticket.
                other
                If running with 4-windows down, make sure your exhaust system is sealed and the tips go out to just past the rear bumber and the rear cowl-seal is in place.For a trip, use 4 same size tires and rims and carry a matching spare and the tools to install it.Run the car for a couple of weeks before the trip to de-bug it.
                 
                Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
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                • 73dartswingerlover

                  73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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                  Thanks for all of your responses!

                  Also yes I have most of that and also upgraded the torsion bars etc. going to do at least front disc conversion since it is all drums. Got the engine and drive train stuff switched over and the schumacker mounts etc.

                  A ton of this is stuff ive seen on here.

                  Gas tank is new and the pain was getting the filler neck since it had rusted through. I could not find one anywhere so a buddy of mine took it home and cut it above the rust went to an exhaust shop had them blow up a pipe to fit and he braised it and painted it and it works great.

                  Ive also bought quite a few parts from the fabo section and have no complaints and people here are really helpful.

                  Freeze plugs have been dome but i dont know if they did the brass ones.

                  I admit im not really a mechanic minded guy so im paying my friend to do basically all the work. I offer to help and can do simple things.

                  I expect there to be maintenance issues as time goes on but i just need it to be rrliable enough for some short trips around town and would love to be confident in an 8-10 hour trip some day.
                   
                • moparmat2000

                  moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Jump in with your friend doing the work, get more hands on with it. Everybody here had to start somewhere. Nobody was born with any of this knowledge. Have him teach you as you help. I am an Aviation Sheetmetal structures mechanic crew chief for an airline. I also have an instructors rating. I have been told I make a good teacher. If your friend is willing to explain how it works as you go along, you will pick it up. These cars are remarkably simple to work on.
                   
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                  • barbee6043

                    barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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                    My advise is also this. Make sure it I safe! Brakes, front suspension, even the rear end. The set out to make it reliable. Like said above, pay attention to obvious things that can case a problem as you drive. Good point is the freeze plugs!!!
                    Like the front end. Have a knowledgable person check it out. At some point, all or part of it will need replacing. The question is at what point!! Fix what needs fixing, if it ain't broke.........
                    Drive it and get a feel for what it may need. It will tell you if there is a fuel problem, or an electrical problem. And realize this, unless every part no this car is brand new (Not that every new part is GOOD!), there will always be something that needs replacing eventually, just the nature of mechanical things!
                     
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                    • 73dartswingerlover

                      73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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                      I am pretty much replacing every part or so it seems.

                      It was a slant six and i just felt like it was dangerously underpowered for the mountains.

                      Fuel lines and brake lines and most everything like that will be replaced.

                      The body work is already done and just waiting on the rest of the mechanical before paint.

                      Im not doing much on the interior aside from new carpet.

                      Really shooting for mechanically sound over looks at this point.
                       
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                      • Dartswinger70

                        Dartswinger70 Well-Known Member

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                        That slant should hav had a reasonable amount of power. I think running it to Florida on I 95 you may want overdrive, or be prepared to cruise at 60-65. The car will go more than that depending on rear gearing, it may get 14 MPG. My dart has been dependable, but after driving modern cars dont know if I wuld want to go to FL in in from PA. Would it make it? I think so... these old cars can be fixed on the side of the road, in fact in the old days part of being a man was knowing basic auto repair/maintenance. I remember my father, grandfather, uncles, all knew how to keep their cars running, you had to, if the car didnt start in the winter, you were dead in the water. ever flood out an old points/carb car? Its an ordeal, you are at least going to be late for work.
                         
                      • 73dartswingerlover

                        73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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                        It is weird how gutless the slant is in my car especially up the mountains.

                        Owners manual is in car and said 0-60 in 17.5 seconds haha!

                        I love on a long flat road and still its hard to pull out without blocking people.
                         
                      • Dartswinger70

                        Dartswinger70 Well-Known Member

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                        i think there are two "sixes" a 225 Cu in. and a smaller 170 something. Im no expert. I had one in a 70 duster many years ago, it ran good. i dont remember it being "underpowered" but I wasnt racing or anything with it. Well now that I think of it it was 30 years ago LOL!
                         
                      • barbee6043

                        barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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                        Power level makes a difference IF a stock fresh rebuild OR a 50 year old 3/4 woreout engine with how many miles ( NO the speedo does not tell you!).. None the less they were not a power house.
                        I had an 88 1/2 t slant pickup with A833OD that I put hundreds of miles on pulling my car trailer with all kinds of Mopars. NO it was not in mountains, just foothills of Missouri!
                        The slant will usually get ya there, just not as fast.
                         
                      • 73dartswingerlover

                        73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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                        I was under the impression it was the 225 due to some gaskets i had to get and the shapes were supposedly different.

                        It is old and close to 80k miles on odometer (is a family car so i believe this to be correct).
                         
                      • Dartswinger70

                        Dartswinger70 Well-Known Member

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                        If it is still in the car, try a tune up, you may be surprised. 80K dont sound like much,but it may be 180 K right? start with a compression check, see if it is worth tuning.
                         
                      • 73dartswingerlover

                        73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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                        Its out and it was my grandmothers car that my dad drove off the lot for her.

                        Dad said it was 78000$ before he had his stroke.

                        I have a 360 and things that are almost ready to drop in so i think ill just do that and maybe keep the slant for a bit or sell it.

                        You are right though a few things done to the slant may make it more drivanle.
                         
                      • TrailBeast

                        TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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                        Oh, it can be a reliable car with some attention.
                        I think you are doing the right thing for what you want out of the car by leaving basically stock.
                        My 5.9 Magnum motor is close to stock save for EQ heads a mild cam, headers, carburation and intake.
                        You can just barely tell it has a non stock cam.
                        As a general rule the closer to stock a motor is, the more reliable it's going to be.

                        We have taken my car out of state multiple times without one single issue, and the longest so far was 17 hours one way at 80-90 all the way.
                        This picture was taken out on Route 66 on the way to California.
                        P.S. An overdrive is the ticket for trips, as I get 25mpg on the hiway with my 42RH, as where I got 17 with the original 318 and 904.

                        I also agree that a good cooling system is mandatory, and you pretty much can't beat a good radiator with a shroud and clutched mechanical fan.

                        I just wish someone made a good Heat/AC kit specific to the 73.
                        I was over in Laughlin/Bullhead once when it was 110 at night.
                        The car did ok, but I melted.:D

                        73Swinger.jpg
                         
                        Last edited: Jul 19, 2019
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                        • 73dartswingerlover

                          73dartswingerlover Well-Known Member

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                          Sweet car and thanks hoping it will all work out!
                           
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