Ammeter bypass turning over alternator

[Mattax]

Ammeter's themselves have been known to burn up.

If you beleive that I'm not going to argue. The issue here was that the OP got misdirected with a supposed 'cure all'.

When that happens you lose power to the dash.

That's not how it works.
When there is a break in the battery feed everything loses power (except the starter), not just the dash.
Sometimes a car will keep running on the alternator's power just like when people will "test" an alternator by removing the battery connection at the battery. Test is in quotes because it is a bad "test".

This is especially a problem when someone replaces a lower output alternator with a high amperage alternator.

A higher output alternator only changes the maximum power available. It does not change the output. Output is changed with changed demand. The only time a standard alternator will be maxed out is when extra equipment has been added or, too commonly, at some point an owner charged a low battery using the alternator. In the latter case a higher output alternator can and will cause damage more quickly.

Now please take this arguement somewhere else. Not picking on you particularly LST46. You just happened to be the latest to jump in. At this point its a total sidetrack. I'm a little ticked because not one of the people who advocate bypassing ammeters has done anything to help this guy. When I was away for two days not one person answered @kewen300 question about the next step - determining whether the alternator was problem.

 

[RustyRatRod]

When I do an oil change on Vixen, I unplug and check all three firewall connectors and I also remove the instrument cluster and check the two ammeter connections for tightness. I consider it part of her maintenance.

 

[crackedback]

LOL not trying to diagnose the problem from miles away anymore. You got a handle on it helping and no need to look beyond that for me. Figured he was in good company with you looking it over. Between medicine and such, no thanks on this end. Do appreciate the insult though... I expect more from you @Mattax

Just recall who started the bypass shitshow in this thread regardless of the OP decision to use it. The system never causes a problem according to some. That's straight BS and you know it.

I got a message from someone while this thread was in motion, ammeter not conducting enough to charge the car. Car would run, but not charge. Supposed to never happen according to some. Ammeter bypassed, car runs and charges just fine now. Shocking right.

Have at it.

 

[Mattax]

There's always more to the story. Sorry you got insulted.
I'm not a saint. I was working long days away from home. Instead of paragraphs arguing with boogeyman - all that was needed was someone to write one sentance:
Bypass the regulator to see if it's the reason the alternator isn't producing power.

 

[kewen300]

UPDATE!!

I replaced the alternator and redid the connectors going to it. The car now charges when I hit the throttle. Unsure if it is a thing with old cars or not but it doesn't read 13+volts at idle. Also the ammeter works as it should shows draw when I turned on the radio,wipers, lights. I moved the power line for the radio from the main power at the key switch to the open leg in the fuse box. I am dropping it off at the machine shop next week to do a tune up on the motor(with my work schedule I'll leave it to the professionals rather than weekend worrior tune it)

Also as a side note. The first alternator i ordered(round back) new reman. The shaft was seized up could not move the pulley. Had to wait for another one to come in.

Thank you everyone for all of the help im sure this won't be the last time.