Ammeter delete, delete?

[moparmandan]

So I'm going to install new gauges in the cluster. Including a voltmeter. Here's what we've got as shown in the picture. Car at some point had the "firewall connector meltdown." So the PO ran a new wire from the alternator that went to one side of the ammeter (black wire with black terminal lug). Factory black wire (yellow lug) that was tied to the same post, but is cut and abandoned at the engine side of the firewall (still powers the "welded splice"). Factory red wire is abandoned in place, back of the picture. New red wire (black lug) run from starter relay, was tied to the other side of the ammeter, foreground of the picture. NOTHING fused . But it worked.
Sooooo I think I'll pull and run the newer black wire (from alternator) to the starter relay (new fuse link in line) and splice the factory black wire to the new red wire (fuse link at starter relay added also) to power the "splice." Sound reasonable?

 

[67Dart273]

Sorry you lost me. You have a factory manual? Here is a simplified diagram of the original wiring from the MAD article:

Catalog

How is the "new wire" the old owner ran (the black) routed? IE through the bulhead connector, through a "new" hole, or ?

 

[67Dart273]

Why use the factory black wire at this point? Also, the factory stuff was not really fused, either. Many of these have damaged/ burned up harnesses before (LOL) the "fuse link" popped!!

 

[moparmandan]

Sorry, yeah that was a little long-winded. Basically someone ran a wire from the alternator to the ammeter and from the other side of the ammeter to the starter relay. They had tied the old black wire that powers to splice to one side of the ammeter.

 

[moparmandan]

All the new wires went through a grommet in the firewall.

 

[moparmandan]

Why use the factory black wire at this point? Also, the factory stuff was not really fused, either. Many of these have damaged/ burned up harnesses before (LOL) the "fuse link" popped!!

Only because the old black wire still powers the welded splice.

 

[moparmandan]

Only because the old black wire still powers the welded splice.

Uh yep, look close at the black wire. Think it maybe had some melting going on too, Haha.

 

[73 dart custom]

No opinion here, but glad you posted the pic showing the Map Light switch! I have a Map Light switch just like that!

 

[moparmandan]

Haha. Still works, too. AND the 45 year old foot dimmer switch. It's the little things........

 

[73 dart custom]

Yes, it is the little things, I do agree!!!

 

[moparmandan]

Thanks everyone. Found my answers here:

www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/bypassing-the-amp-gauge-question-about-the-mad-electrical-method.265125/

 

[moparmandan]

Here's what I'll have:

 

[matthon]

I did this years ago, can't recall which method, but looking at this again, if there is a new charge wire from alternator to relay, why not just take the black that goes from the welded splice to the bulkhead, and plug it into the bulkhead connector where the red wire is now, and eliminate the red/black from the ammeter.

 

[moparmandan]

I did this years ago, can't recall which method, but looking at this again, if there is a new charge wire from alternator to relay, why not just take the black that goes from the welded splice to the bulkhead, and plug it into the bulkhead connector where the red wire is now, and eliminate the red/black from the ammeter.

Those contact locations in the firewall bulkhead connector are melted. Even if they were not, eliminating another plug in lowers total circuit resistance which would be a good thing! New wires run through a firewall grommet. Thanks anyway!