amp gauge???

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ironmonkey

ironmonkey

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i am having wiring issues i had a ballest resister go out and a fuseable link go out as well i fixed these problems and now when the car cranks and is idling the amp gauge slowly starts to climb it is a 73 duster and the gauge ranges from -40 to +40 it goes a little under half when i turn the key to the on switch then after it cranks it goes to a little over half then starts to climb does any one know what this might be? what i need to check? i am ](*,) with this thing

thanks
william
 
just indicating its charging.Any electrical upgrades like fans or amps or anything? unless its pegging out or discharging I wouldnt worry. Maybe the gauge is weak.
 
daredevil said:
just indicating its charging.Any electrical upgrades like fans or amps or anything? unless its pegging out or discharging I wouldnt worry. Maybe the gauge is weak.
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From his description it sounds more like a bad regulator.

When you say it "keeps going" do you mean that as you give it more throttle it just keeps going up?

You need to get a voltmeter on the battery with the car running and see what it says, pronto.
 
ironmonkey said:
as i idles on its own power it keeps going up. what regulator?
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THIS

mopar-performance-4529794.jpeg


is what your regulator should look like if you have a factory alternator.

YOU NEED to get/ buy/ borrow a multimeter, and with the engine running, "to simulate medium cruise" measure the voltage at the battery
 
i bypassed the amp gauge the problem has gone away thank guys for all the help i wouldnt have been able to do it with out you.

thanks
William
 
mullinax95 said:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

By pass that sucker!
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DO IT...I had a VERY bad electrical melt down on my way home from Carlisle... Had my Dart roll backed almost 60 miles to my house. I ended up removing my windsheild and steering column to remove the dash to work on it easier. Then, spent a week cutting apart wires with a razor blade and replacing wires.
If you do this, and I talked to this guy...don't splice the heavier wire to the 12 gauge wire coming off the alternator. Run 10 gauge wire right off the alternator and run it right to the starter relay. Solder EVERYTHING and insulate well.

You won't regret it!

I also did the the headlight upgrade from Painless. Between the two, what a difference. Any questions shoot me a PM.
 
It's not an "amp gauge", it's an "ammeter" which measures current (measured in amps) either flowing into or out of the battery.
 
cudajim said:
It's not an "amp gauge", it's an "ammeter" which measures current (measured in amps) either flowing into or out of the battery.
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This is almost silly. Many people over the years have "incorrectly" called these an "amp gauge" but your claim that (in the context of a typical automotive ammeter) that it actually "measures" anything is ridiculous.

Ammeters have always been (in cars) a highly inaccurate, relative reading device, meaning, less, more, or close to nothing, certainly not capable of actually measuring amperage

Which brings us to the rest of the "gauges." Since many factory "oil pressure gauges", "temperature gauges" or "fuel gauges" ARE ACTUALLY ELECTRIC METER MOVEMENTS, then just what do you suggest?

I cannot remember the last time I heard someone say "My oil meter is reading low", or "the gas meter is low, we'd better gas up."
 
cudajim said:
It's not an "amp gauge", it's an "ammeter" which measures current (measured in amps) either flowing into or out of the battery.
Click to expand...

You can call it an ammeter all you want. I,m gonna call it an amp gauge so people know wtf i,m talking about.
 
I think in the United Kingdom they call it a "ammeter" but mostly here in the US it's called a "amp gauge".
 
All good points but I'm still going to call it an ammeter and it does measure current flow although somewhat crude.
 
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