Don't need a converter yet but this really Sucks!
Another converter thread
- Thread starter Gr8polarbear
- Start date
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I'm not the one to answer this question but here is an example from my experience.
I had a stockesh converter that was tweeked to stall around 3000 rpm. To cause the body of the car to take a load on my brake peddle, i was stalling the car at 2200 rpm.
My 4200 stall converter create the same aka Equal load, on the car at 1800 rpm, but stalls at 4200 were my 3000 converter stalled a 3000(actual 2800 rpm)
In terms of performance converters (nothing factory) a loose converter will give the feel of a slipping transmission just cruising around town. Generating extra heat. This is why it's important to use a large transmission cooler to combat the high temperatures created by the loose converter. They don't achieve lockup until a high RPM (whatever they are designed for) and until then, they are loose and "slip".
Modern tight converters can give the best of both worlds. They can flash to a given RPM on launch, yet allow very streetable cruising at very low RPM, due to their ability to lock up at lower RPMs like a stock converter. Then, when you launch, they flash to the desired RPM that they were designed for. You can easily have a converter that will stall (flash) to 5500 RPM and yet drive around town docile as a stock converter with no slipping feeling at all.
The problem is, no one believes it that's never had a modern converter. Lots of people are still stuck in the 70s and 80s frame of mind when it comes to converters and you cannot tell them a damn thing when they ask about it because they slap will not listen. That's why a handful of us are growing weary of explaining it over and over and over again. Some people simply will not get it, no matter how much you preach it. It's like @crackedback says all the time, the converter is THE single most important piece in an automatic equipped street or race car and to me, it's more important in the street car, because THERE is where it must do both. Cruise on the street at a reasonable RPM and launch like a race car when needed. Some people will just never believe that both are possible with the same converter. But that is the fact.
Thank you....ever heard of Precision of New Hampton, Inc I have a Pt # 9240T 28-3000 stall in my 69 Dart with a 904 trans. In 2015 it cost $1,200.00 this was done by the previous owner is this a good converter.....engine is a built 318.
Yup. Very good company to deal with. I worked at a small mom pop transmission shop locally for a little while and that's all those guys used and they are really good. The owner even had one of their converters in his 5300 pound Plymouth wagon he raced regularly. I think it indexed like 12.70s. 1200 seems like a high priced converter from them. Did you actually see paperwork or was that just what you were told?
Yes I have the order conformation dated March 30 2015 order #718564 it was shipped to a Mr. Richard Biggs...I purchased the 69 Dart in 2019 from a company in Michigan the car came with no engine build details so now I am trying to trace the owner out to get this info. The only personal paper work I have from the owner is invoices for the converter, Doug's Headers and battery.
aaronk785
Well-Known Member
Some people think if you have a 4000 stall you have to hit 4000 rpm for the car to move. Can't tell them different. Arrrrrg.
I agree 100%
it does require you to setup the car so it hooks
if you are running around with 225 70 14s and 3.91s and 3500 stall and blowing the tires off then its not the most important thing
ive beaten no traction high stalls with a stock 340 verter
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
I have an old saying, "you should get what you pay for and sometimes you don't". Research, as you are doing, then you must pay the piper. You don't buy a one ton truck to travel in, as you wouldn't buy a half ton truck to pull your 10,000 lb trailer. You buy, what fits your needs. You buy a $600.00 converter and it fails to fit your needs, you just waisted your $600.00. Now you spend $950.00 for the desirable one, you now paid $1550.00 for the converter. Something else to consider, installing a high stall converter, you may have to BEEF up other items in your car, as rear end, springs and frame. That is where your research and plan come to play.
roccodart440
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OP said he paid 850. I paid 1,500 iirc.
I just received my new converter over the weekend from Perfect Converter Company (.501 Performance) out of Cleveland OH. Nice guys to work with on the front end, and asked me all the right questions about my car and what i do with it. They said it should flash around 5200 behind my 440. We will see how it does this spring!
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Flash is what the engine speed goes to when you whack the throttle. Different from what you would see power braking.
Loose versus tight is mainly (sorta) dependant on the physical size of the converter. An eleven inch converter can be made to stall as much as an eight inch, but it will be unbelievably sloppy, and undrivable..
It couldn't hurt to check out Hughes tutorial on converters, (especially the stall speed one) on you tube.
If anyone here is looking for a great company to purchase a converter from Call Milt at Precision of New Hampton, Inc in Iowa 800-654-1220.....just fill in the blanks and they build it....great family business. I have one of their converters in my 69 Dart 318/375 hp 28-3000 Stall 3:55 RR rear tire MT ET Street 235/60/15...street use she's quick fun to drive.....cheers
Gr8polarbear
Well-Known Member
I would like to thank everyone for their advice. I talked to them on the phone this morning and went ahead and ordered the tight converter from Coan. Unfortunately it is going to take 4-5 weeks to get but should still have it in the car by spring time. Will let everyone know how it works out.
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