any 225 performance ideas

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But I can get the head milled without issues?
I'm grabbing a slanty that's apparently locked up, but figured I can at least get the head and have it cleaned, preped, milled and possibly bigger valves, then when i get a good running one i can go through it and change out all gaskets and swap the head so there won't be any down time

you must not have read my other post, my motor is .113 or so off the head and .027 off the block. yes you can mill the head
 
you must not have read my other post, my motor is .113 or so off the head and .027 off the block. yes you can mill the head

Ahhh i miss read it, thought you had .113 of the block and .027 off the head

Thanks for all the info btw :thumblef:
 
I am assuming stupidly maybe that an exhaust manifold for a 1965 slant six 225 is the same as a 1966, is this right?

yep, every slant manifold will work on another, but they have slight differences between them thru the years (ribbing, choke tower, O2 port, etc)
 
Here's a 62 Valiant.....triple Webers.
 

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whats the better carb for the dual single offy intake? the holly 1920 or 1945?

dont waste your time with either... go with a single 4. the single 4 will will net better mpg than probably anything other than the side drafts and EFI.
 
dont waste your time with either... go with a single 4. the single 4 will will net better mpg than probably anything other than the side drafts and EFI.

not going for big performance or mpg, sticking with the dual singles, just wanna know which of the two carbs is better

love this look
 
not going for big performance or mpg, sticking with the dual singles, just wanna know which of the two carbs is better

love this look

i understand but the 1920 gets one peice of junk into the "brain" and it will never run right, somewhere, if not everywhere... only reason im working with mine is because i havn't collected everything to put my offy/hooker headers on. i dont think the 45 is much different than the 20 in terms of junk...
 
This is one of the preparations that we do in Argentina and are cheap. This was written by another user Argentine in another forum


7.3" lenght 2" crank journal size, 1" floating pin. Those where fitted on "torinos", some argentinian version of amc's rambler american or something. Those came in 4 dr sedans and 2 dr hardtop versions. The choice of engines were 3 litres or 3.8 litres, up untill 1977 them blocks ("tornado", a derivative of the us "continental") had 4 mains, then they got a new block casting (I don't know if that was an argentinian redesigning rave such as the holley 1922 or happened the same in the states) (just like phord did with their inline 6 221 by the same time) with 7 mains. The thing is that those engines had a variety of shapes of conneting rods, so, but so very wide, that's hard to get a complete set this days. They had 10 diffrent shapes and weights and sizes (mains, wrist pins, some of them where "bent" not straight) for a production run of 10 years but very little numbers of engines made.

using renault 18 pistons with those rods (stock or custom made forged pistons) you have 20mm for fittng the oil ring and the comp rings. Pretty close but with thinner rings ("new" tech) can be done. Also you have a very tempting 32.5 mm distance from piston head to wrist pin center...

Renault did purchased AMC operation down here in '68 and gently slowed down (aka they frenchly crapped on local AMC branch called IKA - industrias kaiser argentina or argentinian kaiser industries) all AMC operations till 1970, when they introduced the infamous R12. they did used those "tornado" engines to produce the "torino" up to 1980. That's why most renault and AMC derivatives (at least from down here) do interchange or mix up with minimum fabrication or even none at all.

this is the car

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IKA torino is a Rambler American coupe with a Jeep 6-cylinder and cool front end sheet metal.

Here in the U.S. the 198 rods or aftermarket K1/Molnar rods (7.005 c-c) are cheaper and easier to find, and Mopar 2.2L pistons or aftermarket Wiseco pistons are easy to find - most high performance builds use those parts.
 
As for the dual carb intake, you can use any carbs, but make sure they are perfectly matched. Most of the guys I know running them have Holley 1920s because they are easiest to tune. I set one up with BBSs but I sold it before I ran it. BBS carbs don't have any aftermarket tuning parts available so I wouldn't recommend them unless you are cool with using small letter drills and solder.
 
As for the dual carb intake, you can use any carbs, but make sure they are perfectly matched. Most of the guys I know running them have Holley 1920s because they are easiest to tune. I set one up with BBSs but I sold it before I ran it. BBS carbs don't have any aftermarket tuning parts available so I wouldn't recommend them unless you are cool with using small letter drills and solder.

Thanks :thumblef:
 
so i have a 225 /6 out of a 72 dart ...in a 74 duster and im thinkig of putting a cam in it but im not sure what kind of power i can expect from it and if i do put a cam in it i should probably get a 4 bbl intake and headers.... what im really wanting to do is make it a daily driver but still have some fun with it :burnout:. ideally id like to be at 250 to 300 horse and my budget for the motor is about $1500 to $2000... any ideas?

I made the following modifications ; mild racing camshaft from Comp Cams, Wiseco high-compression (10.3:1) pistons and connecting rods, equal-length runners intake manifold from AussieSpeed, ported, polished and gasflowed cylinder head from Hemi Performance (Australia) with larger valves and dual valve springs (a must for a 3.7l engine, as the cylinder head was never optimised for the larger displacement version of the slant-6), tubular exhaust collector from Hemi Perfomance with a Maxiflow 2-1/4" builder's kit exhast system. With a change in camshaft and an automatic transmission you must also swop the torque converter for an item with an higher stall speed (at least 2200rpm).

I've also added a racing ignition system and plan to upgrade the cooling system to a Smith's Radiator's item as well as add an engine-oil cooler to better manage temperatures. I use an electric ventilator, as an engine-driven item consumes about 5hp. I use an Edelbrock 600cfm 4-barrel carburettor.

Your budget is rather austere. I spent at least € 10,000 on the engine alone and get roughly 300hp before engaging nitro. You won't get the same results without spending more, much more money.

Here are some links you may find interesting ;

http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_889_Slant-6-225-Standard-Performance-Crate-Engine

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/

http://www.aussiespeed.com/

Bonne chance..
 

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Agreed. The slant will let you down in the power made vs the money and time put in. The argument can be made tht is the most economical and toughest motor ever put on this earth, but performance is something that cannot be done with the word cheap next to it.

Buy a 360 w/tranny with 1/3 your budget, and then spend for a cam, intake/ carb and a tune, you'll be much happier in the long run


You're right, Wrencher, that modfying a slant 6 for performance is both costly and challenging but it offers its own rewards ; a numbers-correct vehicle !

I live in France and got most of the engine parts from Australia (the AUD is strong, add shipping and duty to the base costs). In America V8-s are the default performance option (no quarrels, the same is true for the Harley V2 - quintissentially American) and the Aussies advertise slant-6 performance options on the internet better.

It is also expensive. I spent about € 10,000 (including shipping and duty) on the engine mods alone, and have a short list of (rather pricey) upgrades for the future.
 

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