any 225 performance ideas

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ice7891

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so i have a 225 /6 out of a 72 dart ...in a 74 duster and im thinkig of putting a cam in it but im not sure what kind of power i can expect from it and if i do put a cam in it i should probably get a 4 bbl intake and headers.... what im really wanting to do is make it a daily driver but still have some fun with it :burnout:. ideally id like to be at 250 to 300 horse and my budget for the motor is about $1500 to $2000... any ideas?
 
K1 rods, domed pistons or KB pistons, milled or ported head 4bbl intake and carb. and dual exhaust. With your budget, you could get away with some 198 rods and a cam, possibly catch a 2bbl or 4bbl intake at a deal.
 
Also you would want to bore out your block if you were to change to those pistons, but you would be dropping some serious change to do that.
 
To even get close to doubling your HP you will need a few more things dun just to get close to 185 hp, Shave about 80 to 100 thousands off the block to get your compression up to about 9 to 1 build a big valve head with some port work by a skilled Tech, then you will have to move the air out with headers..
Getting the correct cam shaft and a good ignition system and a good tune.
They can be built, but you are going to have to get more help from some great tech's here.
 
blow through turbo...double your HP (200!!!) without any internal mods. ITs not 250 but you can get there....
 
Pishta would a blow through turbo be in that price range? Where could I find one, I know nothing of turbos.
 
I just picked up some slant six performance items that I don't intend to use. Offenhauser four barrel intake. Lunati camshaft a rebuilt head with hardened seats with new springs to match the cam. And the lifters to go with the cam. Everything is new except the head which is rebuilt and hasn't been ran. Let me know if you are interested.
 
ICE, How much work can you do yourself? What condition is the engine in now? Is fuel mileage an issue, what about octane rating of the fuel? That will make a difference with your budget. 250-300hp is not realistic, more likely around 200 hp. Only do the slant, because it is different, and "neat". If you want big hp, don't even swap to a V-8, swap to a V-8 car, it would be less money.

If your short block is in good condition, remove the head, and mill it (get the compression up to about 9 or 9.5 to 1, depending on what fuel you are willing to buy). Install over size valves and hardened sxhaust valve seats. Do some "pocket" porting ( no need to go crazy on porting, basically a street motor, just blend the bowls). Install a cam (specs based on the compression ratio used, and gear ratio/ converter stall speed). If staying with a mild build, consider a "super six" 2bbl setup, or a Offie manifold, with a small 4bbl carb. I don't like headers on a street driver, they are noisy, leak, rust out, no manifold heat, etc. I would recommend something like Dutra Duals, or a exhaust like Waggon made for Memike.
 
Thanks for the advice every one... And yes the block is in great shape I got the motor out of a 72 dart with 28,000 original miles on it .... One of those old lady garage kept cars and they were putting a v8 in the dart.... Yea I want to keep it a six for that wow factor .... A six with a little power. As for the work I will be doing every thing except any shaving, milling, or boring.

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You're going to need more money and you will make less power than your expectations.
 
Agreed. The slant will let you down in the power made vs the money and time put in. The argument can be made tht is the most economical and toughest motor ever put on this earth, but performance is something that cannot be done with the word cheap next to it.

Buy a 360 w/tranny with 1/3 your budget, and then spend for a cam, intake/ carb and a tune, you'll be much happier in the long run
 
For the cam, contact Dave Crower from crower cams. Go to his website for info.

He made a nice custom grind cam for my ex's 64 Dart when we rebuilt the engine. We still kept the 1bbl carb. He made a nice street cam that idles well and has decent power. He can also make one that is more aggressive if you are going to go with bigger carb, and exhaust.
 
Agreed. The slant will let you down in the power made vs the money and time put in. The argument can be made tht is the most economical and toughest motor ever put on this earth, but performance is something that cannot be done with the word cheap next to it.

Buy a 360 w/tranny with 1/3 your budget, and then spend for a cam, intake/ carb and a tune, you'll be much happier in the long run

Agree 100%
Don't expect to set the world on fire with a slant in a big bumpered 74 Duster.
That's a heavy car. I have an early A with a tricked out slant. All the goodies,all the tricks. It's a much lighter car than yours,and it shoots around pretty good.
Put it next to my 360 Dart,and it will get waxed. If your plan is to just cruise around,get decent gas mileage,by all means go with a slant.
But if you want some Real performance,go with a small block.
 
Agree 100%
Don't expect to set the world on fire with a slant in a big bumpered 74 Duster.
That's a heavy car. I have an early A with a tricked out slant. All the goodies,all the tricks. It's a much lighter car than yours,and it shoots around pretty good.
Put it next to my 360 Dart,and it will get waxed. If your plan is to just cruise around,get decent gas mileage,by all means go with a slant.
But if you want some Real performance,go with a small block.

How's this for real performance from a slant six???

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QzUfV8iTpQ"]Turbo Slant Six 10.74 @ 127 mph 7-19-10 - YouTube[/ame]

If you're still not convinced, watch this one...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY"]Turbo charged Slant 6 11.02 @ 120.56 - YouTube[/ame]

Both of thoe motors are slant sixes that put out about 500 ho.

The fact is, the cylinder head that comes on a slant six was designed for a 170, and can't be made effective on a 225, so the only way to get real performance is to turbocharge, supercharge, or add nitrous to the motor. They just don't have the capability of making good power (1.5 horsepower per cubic inch and up) without some help in the breathing department.

I like the hairdryer approach; it's not easy, but pays big rewards.

There are various levels of performance available, depending on whether you want to run pump gas, E85 or just alcohol; I run mine on av gas.

I investigated the cost of building a 500 hp slant six compared with a 500 hp V8 and wrote a descriptive piece about what I found. Here it is...

Comparison of turbo Slant Six 500 HP build vs.
500 HP 318/340/360 small block build

The following is written in reference to the 225 motor. The 170 is a different kettle of fish.


It would seem that slant 6 motors (remember, this is about 225's,) were built (though, not intentionally,) to be force-fed air and fuel.

Whether it's done with a supercharger, nitrous oxide, or a turbo, it once-and-for-all, makes an end run around the built-in breathing problem that slant sixes suffer from birth. Because of their small bores, they can never have the kind of breathing that will deliver horsepower in the 1.75 hp-per-cubic-inch range. Not with that original, cast-iron, 2-valve head, at least.

The engine is rpm limited because of the long (4-1/8") stroke, so it's never going to deliver the goods at 8,000 rpm. That's the rpm where most small-block Chevys that are really "built" seem to make big power. I'm talking the small-displacement, short stroke models.

RPM's? Forget it. Too much piston speed.

Because of the fact that the original plans for the slant 6 included an aluminum block (and, the fact that that aluminum isn't as strong as cast iron,) the basic specifications for the slant 6 block were robust, to say the least; they had to be... aluminum needs more mass to be as strong as it needs to be for reliability, than cast iron. Well, the engine that went on to live in Mopars of various descriptions for many years, turned out to be cast iron.

But, the changes in the cast iron version, from the aluminum parameters, were minimal.

That meant that the resulting engine was an unusually strong critter, not unlike a Diesel, in basic construction.

A forged steel crank with mains the size of a 426 Hemi’s made for an equally-strong bottom end.

Along the way, someone a whole lot smarter than I am, realized that what this all meant was, you could boost the s**t out of this little motor without hurting it. Boost = performance increases!

Tom Wolfe (Shaker223 on FABO) and another FABO member whose name is Ryan Petesron built the prototypes for the engine that is in the '64 Valiant that Freddie and I plan to run. We bald-facedly copied their lead, and we are HOPEFULLY going to run within a second of their cars. There are only minimal differences in their "recipe" from ours. But, they did it first; we're just copy-cats.


In this diatribe, I am going to try to justify why anyone would want to go this route, ($$$$$$$$$$$,) and perhaps point out a few reasons why it might not be such a good idea, after all...


There are (at least) two kinds of people out there; those who just want to go fast, and those who want to go fast and prove something in the process.

Anybody can stick a big engine into a light car with easily predictable results: It's gonna be F-A-S-T!!! Those 440+ cubic inch A Bodies are hard to outrun... and, with good reason! Ma made it pretty easy to drop an RB engine into an A-Body, and beyond getting it to hook, the problems in getting it to go fast are not actually what you'd call "insurmountable." Whoever said, "There's no substitute for cubic inches," said a mouthful!

Senor' Schumacher has made the task of installing a big engine into a Dart or Duster a lot easier, with his motor mounts and custom-fit big-engine-in-a-in small car headers. The appeal is almost overwhelming, if you love "speed."

Some folks, though, look at that operation and say, "Ho Hum... It SHOULD be fast; big block in a small car.... so what?"

Some of those detractors want to produce a fun car with a smaller engine, but not TOO small.. There are the 318/340/360 guys who don't want the hassles that go with the installation of a third-member-breaking big block, but would still like to trim a few Corvettes.

To them, a small-block is the answer; they don't want to mess with a slant six, because 1. They don't like the way they sound, and 2. it's hard to build one that will outrun most Corvettes. They probably have never SEEN an 11-second slant six car. Or, a 12-second one; thirteen second slant six cars are not even that plentiful.... so, they know that they can stick a set of headers on a 340, raise the compression to 11.5:1, go with any one of a hundred different solid lifter cams, and presto," a low 12-second car that will embarrass most street driven anything, Corvettes, included.

Enter the slant 6 turbo, the type of engine that most regular-guy Mopar enthusiasts think is an oddball, weird combination that yeah, may be pretty fast, but has to be expensive!!! Right? I mean, you don't get 2+ horsepower per cubic inch out of a slant six without a ton of costly, cutting-edge technology!

Well, that's just not true.

Let me point out what ~I~ have found out about this turbo six business that has made me wonder whether it might not be actually CHEAPER than building an equal-power small block. Especially, if you already HAVE the /6, but will have to buy a V8.


Here are a few ways that the turbo slant six can be a cheaper alternative to an equally-powerful small block.

For purposes of apples-to-apples, let's compare two 500 horsepower engines; one normally-aspirated 360, with time-honored, normal hop-up mods to produce 500 flywheel HP and a turbocharged slant six with equal power.


Lets start with acquiring a rebuildable engine "core."

People give away slant 6's all the time. The one we are attempting to build was, in fact, given to us. It was on its way to the dump, if we didn’t want it. “Free” is always good…

That scenario is also possible with small blocks, but not as easy... and virtually impossible to find a "free" rebuildable 340. But, you don't HAVE to start with a 340; it can even be a 318... but that won’t be as easy. A 500-horsepower 318 is not hard to imagine, but probably would need some pretty good heads, and 12-1 compression. It would also need to be rpm capable, to a large degree. (7,000?)

Not so hard with a 360, but they are not as much in abundance for free, I think. Could be wrong about that. More like $150 for a rebuildable "core."

Advantage, slant 6.

There is more of everything to buy for 8 cylinders compared with 6. Pistons, valves, bearings, rings, valve springs, HEADS... retainers, keepers...

Advantage, slant 6

The driveability of a turbo slant 6 is not much different from a stocker, in that the main thing(s) that destroy driveability, are radical cams with a fast, ragged idle, and big ports that allow the fuel to fall out of suspension (at low rpm) in the ports, due to low velocities brought on by the size of the ports. The turbo slant six cams don't have much more duration than a stock one, and the ports, even in ported heads, aren't very big.

Advantage, slant 6.

The slant six's that have been turbocharged with high-boost (over 20 pounds,) don't seem to like rpm's and don't NEED rpm's to deliver the goods. Tom Wolfe and Ryan Peterson, the two examples I am citing here, both contend that their engines have a de-facto red line of about 5,500 rpm. With such a low red line, the reciprocating stresses, even with a 1-and-an-eighth-inch, stroke, are low enough that these engines will never fail due to bearing loads brought on by excessive piston speed, That is MY opinion; nothing more. Making 500 horsepower from a normally-aspirated small block is going to require that you spin it, probably fast enough to put engine life in jeopardy, if you do it very often.

Advantage, slant six (my opinion)

Because of the relatively low rpm operation of the turbo slant six, the valve train can remain, with stock pushrods and rocker arms, due to the low valve spring pressures required. The money you DON'T have to spend on needle bearing, rollerized rockers, special, heavy-duty pushrods and roller lifters is money saved.

Advantage, slant six.

The rear axle ratios in the two quickest A Body turbo slant six cars that I have seen evidence of, are 2.76:1 for the strip AND for the street. The turbo motors are weird, in that the car slows down with normally-"steep" rear gears, such as the 4.56:1 units often found in small-block cars. The turbo motor seems to make more power (not unlike a "fuel" motor) when it is "held back" and not allowed to increase rpm quickly. The significance if this is, the turbo motors also can use the same ratio for highway driving AND drag strip action. The small block "built" motor wouldn't think much of a 2.76:1 rear end on the drag strip, nor would it perform up to its potential, with a 4.56:1 on the highway. So, if you build a small block and it does double duty, you really need two sets of gears; one for the drag strip and one of the highway. No problem; you can change third members in a couple of hours (or, less.) But, they don't give away 8.75" A-Body housings these days, and neither is it cheap to buy and maintain two sets of third members, with different ratios; one for racing, blah, blah, blah...

The turbo slant six car can easily make do with a "one-ratio-fits-all" rear end. A late model, A Body 8.25" rear end from a junk yard will be lots cheaper (or, one out of an Aspen/Volare car) and will come with highway (and drag strip) gears already in it.... and is plenty strong for this application. More money saved.

Advantage, slant six

Because a high-stall converter is neither desirable nor necessary, turbo slant six converters are going to be cheaper than a 4,000-5,000-rpm unit that would be probably necessary for a wildly-cammed small block. Once again, the street driveability issue comes to light. The tighter slant six converter would not create as much heat as a high-stall, small block unit would, in daily driving.

Advantage, slant six

I BELIEVE that a turbocharged slant six motor is about 80-100 pounds
lighter than an iron small block. Can't prove that, but I'd bet on it.

Advantage slant six

The "bling" factor at shows might be of interest to some. A nice-looking small block has a LOT of competition at car shows and usually needs to have something really special, in cosmetic appeal, to win an award, just because there are so many... But, a slant six with a turbo on it is such a rarity, judges HAVE to pay attention.

Advantage, slant six

Then, there are the negative factors... and, there are some!

You can always put a turbo on a small block and go much faster than you could EVER hope to go with a slant six


Advantage, small block

No roller cams are available for slant six engine (no available roller-tappet cores) so, the ZDDP issue is always a problem.

Advantage, small block

You REALLY need both an intercooler AND a chemical intercooler (alcohol injector) for a hi-boost turbo slant six, and they don't give these away. None is needed on a normally-aspirated small block,

Advantage, small block

I don't think that a turbocharged slant six is a very good bracket car for drag racing, because of problems with turbo-spool on takeoff, and consistency. We are not building our car to run brackets; if we wanted to win bracket races, we'd build something else.

Advantage; small block

Detonation under boost will destroy a turbocharged motor on boost, quicker than you can say "turbo." So, fuel of sufficient octane is always going to be a problem. E-85 would be the perfect hi-octane fuel, but the quality of it at the pump is so iffy, you just can't trust it when it comes to boosted motors. The normally-aspirated small block, with high-compression pistons is choosy when it comes to octane, too, but the results from normally-aspirated detonation are usually not as "catastrophic" as when it happens with, say, 25 pounds of boost. So, I have to say that the turbo slant six is a problem child in that area. Bear in mind that I originally said a "500-horsepower" turbo slant six. That's what we are talking about, here, But to be realistic, the great bulk of whatever turbocharged slant six motors come to pass, MOST will never see boost levels that high, and the picture changes greatly at 7-10 pounds of boost. But, that wasn't the argument, here. Soooooo...

Advantage, small block

The sound of a well-tuned, high-revving small block at full song, is music to almost everyone's ears. Slant sixes with turbos are quiet: the turbo impeller sort of homoginizes the sound waves... They sound sort of like a UPS truck on steroids...

Advantage small block



Due to the very-limited rpm range (less than 5,500rpm, tops, usually) the slant six turbo motor doesn't need a high rpm ignition system like a high-winding, 500 HP, normally-aspirated small block. A stock distributor will work fine, with no worries about effective spark at 7,000 rpm... 'cause, that boosted slant 6 is never gonna see even 6,000 rpm, much less 7,000...

Advantage, slant six

There are no aftermarket (aluminum, or otherwise) cylinder heads for the slant six, so the best you can do is to port the original head, and add some cheap 1.75"/1.5" valves (some folks have used 318 valves.) And, there's only ONE head to deal with, so there's just no place to spend money (of the quantity the V8 car can absorb) on the head. A complete ported head for a slant 6, ready to run, will be cheaper than a pair of aftermarket V8 heads that will support 500 horsepower, I believe.

Advantage, slant six



I hope that after reading this meandering post, I have made a case for it being actually cheaper to build a 500 HP turbo slant 6 than it is to make the same amount of power with a normally-aspirated, small block V8.
You pays your money and you takes your cherce...
Good luck!!!
 
the only way to get real performance is to turbocharge, supercharge, or add nitrous to the motor.

THIS-----------that doesn't mean it's cheap, LOL

You could put 2Gs into that non--boosted slant and my 200 dollar 318 will still kick it's ***.
 
for 2 grand your best money will be

having the head milled for 9.3:1 compression
1.7/1.44 valves installed and blended
port match to intake gasket
hardened exh seats and new guides

depending on how much port work you do or have done your gonna be in somewhere around 750-1000.

full 2.25 exhaust from the manifold back with good muffler (flowmaster 50 is nice)
450

then a full tune up
CH410 brass contact cap
ebay 8.5mm wires
Petronix 3ohm,E core, 60K volt coil
NGK 3459 plugs gapped at .045

rear gear the rear end, do you know what rear is under your car? 8.25 with 3.21's?
 
He's got 2k Bill not 20k.

Here is Tom Wolfe's '70 Dart (3,300-pounds) running a 100,000+ motor to which he has added a Buick Grand National turbo (bolted to a flange welded to the stock exhaust manifold) and a Holley 4-bbl carb on an Offenhauser 4-bbl intake manifold.

Other than those two modifications, the engine was completely stock; the head was never off it and it still had the stock cam and torque converter.

It ran 12.95 @ 105mph. Not a lot of street-driven small blocks are faster than that...

And, I doubt that he spent much over $1,000.00, if that...

Here's the video.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPe_vHwZsF4"]Slant Six Turbo 1970 Dodge Dart 1/4 Mile pass - YouTube[/ame]

Turbo engines like this one, don't run well over 5,500 rpm so there's no necessity for a roller cam titanium retainers, or stiff valve springs. Stock pistons work well for lower boost applications.

Even the 500hp motors are relatively cheap to build, with forged pistons, forged rods and a ported head being the main expenses, along with the purchase of a turbocharger. Most 500hp normally-aspirated mills have all of that, minus the turbo.

For a 250hp motor, you wouldn't need forged anything, nor a ported head.

I don't think you can make 250hp that cheap, normally-aspirated.

Just my 2-cents...
 
Thanks for the advice every one... And yes the block is in great shape I got the motor out of a 72 dart with 28,000 original miles on it .... One of those old lady garage kept cars and they were putting a v8 in the dart.... Yea I want to keep it a six for that wow factor .... A six with a little power. As for the work I will be doing every thing except any shaving, milling, or boring.

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Don't expect any power improvements without shaving, milling, boring and headwork.

Sorry to pop your bubble.
 
A few counterpoints to consider on the novel that really does seem to prove that there is something out there for anyone.

Bill, how long has it taken to build that slant? You have more vision and patience than most do. If he goes down that road it will invariably end 3 years later with nothing more than a head full of ideas and a car that hasn't run in that long. He can have a 360 in it and running in a weekend and with minimal retrofitting.

I can tell you with no fingers the exact number of times I have come across a grand national in a wrecking yard. I'd imagine that even if you did, the turbo is long gone.

The world of forced induction is very different and marches to the beat of a very different drummer than what most people are used to. I think it's a must that before going a route like that to see what kind of local support is available. It will not be the guy who gave you the engine, I'm sure.

The videos you have linked so proudly stating your point do not take into account the work and money that went into building those things. They are the extreme outer limit of what a slant is technically capable of. Those guys probably have years of experience and have spent 5 times the money this guy has in MISTAKES and various failed combos.

Put a cam in the slant (at about 3 times the cost of a small block), and run a larger exhaust system and see what you think about the gains. I suspect you are not going to be very thrilled. There will be a ton of 4 cylinders out there that would outpace you. You wouldn't like that. There's always the $400 headers or the $800 option of the dutra duals. The latter looks so nice btw, but $800 is just silly. Just putting one on and loping the ugly original manifold just looks terrible in my opinion.

So at the end of the day bucking the system is cool and all, but it doesn't equate to the right answer for everyone who comes here looking for sound advise on how to make a slant powerful. At the end of the day, it's not worth the time money and work required to make the slant a powerhouse.
 
Ok I see now that it may not be the best way to stay in budget with the slant 6 .... But iv never converted a car from a 6 to an 8 and to be honest woud have no idea were to start... What I could keep and what needs to be replaced..... I'm self taught on the things I do know but I'm young and don't have as much expearance as I'd like to have....


As for the rear end I'm not shure iv never touched it.... : /

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Sorry if that sounds rude or impolite Bill. I've been at home sick since Friday and Im not myself. It wasn't meant the way I seemingly typed it. I didn't read it until it was posted already
 
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