71dustar
Well-Known Member
My girlfriends brother and i are going to try to wrap some interior parts with carbon fiber to see how it comes out and maybe do the whole interior. anyone use or have cf on their cars?
any one have carbon fiber?
- Thread starter 71dustar
- Start date
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67gtx
Well-Known Member
Here's some shots.
I really like the look of carbon fiber and have done some interior finish work for some customers with it. I just worry that its such a "trendy" thing that In a couple years Ill get bored with and it will be out dated.
GoFish
Have impressive member
WOW! :cheers:
Where in the world do you get this stuff?! I have Corbeau bucket seats going into my Scamp that have carbon fiber-look vinyl, and a Redline Gauges gauge pod that also LOOKS like carbon fiber, but I've never seen anything like those valve covers/intake, or the door panels/kick panels. This stuff would be perfect for my car! I've GOTTA find out where this comes from...
Where in the world do you get this stuff?! I have Corbeau bucket seats going into my Scamp that have carbon fiber-look vinyl, and a Redline Gauges gauge pod that also LOOKS like carbon fiber, but I've never seen anything like those valve covers/intake, or the door panels/kick panels. This stuff would be perfect for my car! I've GOTTA find out where this comes from...
daniel_depetro
Well-Known Member
They are just standard parts wrapped in c/f. There is nothing gained other then asthetics.
You can have pretty much anything wrapped in c/f.
Personally I don't care for the looks of c/f.
To each their own I guess.
I have a c/f lightweight vented hood on my wifes modded 2000 Hyundai Tiburon. I'd like to paint it silver to match the car but the dark color really helps break it all up. I'll probably paint it a semi-flat black or something like that.
It's kind of funny how many people have asked me " whats wrong with your hood?" because of the way c/f is weaved it looks different and tends to 'change' with the sunlight and angle.
The only reason I like kept it on the car is because the stuff is very lightweight. It only weighs 18 lbs, which is literally half of the weight of the original. Keep in mind the original one is paper thin tin already...
You can have pretty much anything wrapped in c/f.
Personally I don't care for the looks of c/f.
To each their own I guess.
I have a c/f lightweight vented hood on my wifes modded 2000 Hyundai Tiburon. I'd like to paint it silver to match the car but the dark color really helps break it all up. I'll probably paint it a semi-flat black or something like that.
It's kind of funny how many people have asked me " whats wrong with your hood?" because of the way c/f is weaved it looks different and tends to 'change' with the sunlight and angle.
The only reason I like kept it on the car is because the stuff is very lightweight. It only weighs 18 lbs, which is literally half of the weight of the original. Keep in mind the original one is paper thin tin already...
GoFish
Have impressive member
I kind of like it, but I also like efi and turbos, so maybe I have a bit of ricer in me...:bootysha:
Where/how can I get that done on my parts?
Where/how can I get that done on my parts?
67gtx
Well-Known Member
The scoops and the engine parts are done by Wildwood (909 709 2407) The process is done to the parts and clear coated to be tuff. My door panels and kick are wraped with vinly material.
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
Does any one make real C/F body parts for old cars? I have only seen new cars with them. If so. Who? If not why not if they are so light weight? Are they a lot lighter than fiberglass and are they more expensive? I don't like the look of C/F but if they are realy that light I would get some. Though I would paint them.
71dustar
Well-Known Member
i'm just now starting with the carbon fiber making interior panels completely out of carbon fiber. not just wrapping existing parts. the hardest part with the carbon fiber i have (50k plain weave) is it doesn't want to lay flat when putting epoxy on and the then trying making the piece fit nicely is another problem that has a lot of sanding involved.
I can tell you with just 4 layers of carbon fiber its 1) really strong 2) thinner than regular panels 3) feels like there is nothing in your hand. if in the end i dont like the look of all the cf then i can just paint them.
I can tell you with just 4 layers of carbon fiber its 1) really strong 2) thinner than regular panels 3) feels like there is nothing in your hand. if in the end i dont like the look of all the cf then i can just paint them.
daniel_depetro
Well-Known Member
There was a company that came out with real carbon fiber six pack hoods for the A12 Road Runners and Super Bees a while back. I dont ever see any of the hood around though so maybe they didn't take off.
tobysoldblue
tobysoldblue
I would love to get some of that to do like a trim on my custom painted door panels that i make to sale.Im also considering making some dash faces,like rockymountain dashes had,but mine wont be aluminum,prob lexan.Also,i hear from the tuner guys i paint for,theres a carbon fiber shortage right now.Theyve been having trouble getting there parts that they ordered,because the companies that make them,can get carbon fiber,TRUE carbon fiber.I dont know if its true or not,but thats what ive been told.Maybe one of you guys know for sure.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Guys,
as it hapens I own a composites company that deals exclusivly in carbon composites.I manufacture for the marine industry and specilize in VARTM molding (vacuum assisted resin transfer molding)
Burntorange70:carbon fiber (not graphite fiber) weighs 70% of what glass fiber does, It also has a tensile strength five times that of steel.
On average it will cost 1.5-10 times what glass does. One of the factors is the finess of the weave. Beyond a point the finer the weave the more expensive. It is also priced by weight oz./sq.yard or gm./sq. meter.
The size of the weave is indicated by the Yarn (bundle/ deneir) size.
For example you can get 8k/12oz fabric for around 8-10 bucks a yard.
The final exterior ply, under the release face, I use on some of my parts is 1K/3oz cloth at 70$ per yard.
71Dustar is using 50K fabric which has 50,000 filiments per thread.
The problem he is having is not a surprise. The bundle size makes it stiff and a plain weve dosn't help either. I would suggest going to a herring bone, 3 harness satin, or a lighter weave. The second thing is that what ever you are wrapping you should be vacuum bagging both for adheasion and looks.This will push the fabric and resin against the part and pullout the air.
As it happens I will be bagging a new headliner for the duster using these methods.
There are links at my web site for all the supplies, about a shortage I dont know I usally get what ever I order fairly quickly.
Andrew
www.a-c-designs.com
there are two portals one I am starting to rebuild for the duster and the other for the composites just click on the logo and it will take you to the site
as it hapens I own a composites company that deals exclusivly in carbon composites.I manufacture for the marine industry and specilize in VARTM molding (vacuum assisted resin transfer molding)
Burntorange70:carbon fiber (not graphite fiber) weighs 70% of what glass fiber does, It also has a tensile strength five times that of steel.
On average it will cost 1.5-10 times what glass does. One of the factors is the finess of the weave. Beyond a point the finer the weave the more expensive. It is also priced by weight oz./sq.yard or gm./sq. meter.
The size of the weave is indicated by the Yarn (bundle/ deneir) size.
For example you can get 8k/12oz fabric for around 8-10 bucks a yard.
The final exterior ply, under the release face, I use on some of my parts is 1K/3oz cloth at 70$ per yard.
71Dustar is using 50K fabric which has 50,000 filiments per thread.
The problem he is having is not a surprise. The bundle size makes it stiff and a plain weve dosn't help either. I would suggest going to a herring bone, 3 harness satin, or a lighter weave. The second thing is that what ever you are wrapping you should be vacuum bagging both for adheasion and looks.This will push the fabric and resin against the part and pullout the air.
As it happens I will be bagging a new headliner for the duster using these methods.
There are links at my web site for all the supplies, about a shortage I dont know I usally get what ever I order fairly quickly.
Andrew
www.a-c-designs.com
there are two portals one I am starting to rebuild for the duster and the other for the composites just click on the logo and it will take you to the site
71dustar
Well-Known Member
so if i wanted to do more parts for my car could i get a vaccum system through you and also all the needed materials for the vacuum system? If i do want to do more i will be switching from the 50k to a 3k 4x4 twill weave. Only got the 50k to try it out and it was a deal.
blue missile
Well-Known Member
71 Dustar:
You missunderstood me.
I do not sell components or supplies and I am not here to sell anybody anything.
There are links for supplies on my site or when I get back to the house I can dig up some more contacts for you.
As far as the vacuum system goes I would be glad to help you put one together. I built mine from scratch and it was not that difficult. The difficulty in what I do is developing multiple use molds that produce parts to very tight tolorances.
In the mean time you will need the following:
1-A vacuum pump,for vacuum bagging all you need is an old rotory vane pump. If you can find a used AC vacuum pump all the better.
2-I have a reserve tank made out of an old water heater tank. I braised all but one opening shut with threaded steel plugs and braising rod. You may or may not want to go that far.
3- you will need a guage on the pump and a guage on the piece you are bagging, along with the hoses for connections.
4- You can make the "bag" out of 2 mil painters plastic and "TackyTape" you can get the tape from metal roofers or even maybe Home Depot in their roofing section.
5- you will need these layers from the finished part out twoards the bag
A- peel ply-A release material that leaves the desired surface finish and still allows exess resin to flow through and get absorbed by the bleeder cloth.
B-Bleeder cloth-this layer absorbs exess resin and is pourous enough for the vacuum to travel through and be evenly distributed to the piece. On larger pieces you will need multiple vacuum ports for even distribution and a quicker draw down of the bag.
For supplies on a small scale try:
Airtech @ www.airtechintl.com- vacuum bagging supplies
for resins and fabric I don't have the info with me here I will get you some when I get back to the house.
I still think you can get a better deal on 8K fabric and make sure it is standard modulous stuff, for your application thats all you need. 3K is usally intermediate modolous. The higher the modulous the more the money.
Andrew
You missunderstood me.
I do not sell components or supplies and I am not here to sell anybody anything.
There are links for supplies on my site or when I get back to the house I can dig up some more contacts for you.
As far as the vacuum system goes I would be glad to help you put one together. I built mine from scratch and it was not that difficult. The difficulty in what I do is developing multiple use molds that produce parts to very tight tolorances.
In the mean time you will need the following:
1-A vacuum pump,for vacuum bagging all you need is an old rotory vane pump. If you can find a used AC vacuum pump all the better.
2-I have a reserve tank made out of an old water heater tank. I braised all but one opening shut with threaded steel plugs and braising rod. You may or may not want to go that far.
3- you will need a guage on the pump and a guage on the piece you are bagging, along with the hoses for connections.
4- You can make the "bag" out of 2 mil painters plastic and "TackyTape" you can get the tape from metal roofers or even maybe Home Depot in their roofing section.
5- you will need these layers from the finished part out twoards the bag
A- peel ply-A release material that leaves the desired surface finish and still allows exess resin to flow through and get absorbed by the bleeder cloth.
B-Bleeder cloth-this layer absorbs exess resin and is pourous enough for the vacuum to travel through and be evenly distributed to the piece. On larger pieces you will need multiple vacuum ports for even distribution and a quicker draw down of the bag.
For supplies on a small scale try:
Airtech @ www.airtechintl.com- vacuum bagging supplies
for resins and fabric I don't have the info with me here I will get you some when I get back to the house.
I still think you can get a better deal on 8K fabric and make sure it is standard modulous stuff, for your application thats all you need. 3K is usally intermediate modolous. The higher the modulous the more the money.
Andrew
blue missile
Well-Known Member
Ok here are some more sources:
http://resinresearch.net/index.html These guys make a very good UV stable resin system @ 1000cps. good for bagging if you are going to bag the part wet.
For more bagging supplies: De-Comp composites
For all types of supplies:
(but they are proud of their stuff) Northern fiber glass sales inc.
for fabrics:
Textile products inc.
Mutual industries.
Hope this helps
Andrew
http://resinresearch.net/index.html These guys make a very good UV stable resin system @ 1000cps. good for bagging if you are going to bag the part wet.
For more bagging supplies: De-Comp composites
For all types of supplies:
(but they are proud of their stuff) Northern fiber glass sales inc.
for fabrics:
Textile products inc.
Mutual industries.
Hope this helps
Andrew
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