any problems with the 3830482 dampers

[trudysduster]

we all know that after a period of time say 40 years that parts wear out. all parts. Did Chrysler have any problems with the factory bullet dampers that was on the cast cranks. the part # was 3830482. on a 76 440 engine. I have been dealing with a slight problem as a lot of you know for several years now and I am trying to eliminate the problem here. Found out that I need the Schumacher motor mounts that will set this drivetrain in the k frame where it is supposed to be. I am ordering them today. I believe that the other problem I have is either in the damper or in the flexplate. Not 100% sure but almost that I put a 10237 B & M flexplate on when I put the new torque convertor in the car. So I am leaning towards the damper. this little quiver in the engine is at low RPM's and it does it in park and neutral. it goes away as the rpm's increase. I am running a Hughes 2800-3000 torque convertor and I have not ruled that out as an option either but I am trying to eliminate all possibilities without pulling the tranny. I don't think it is in the internals of the engine.

 

[moper]

I don't know everything you've done to chase the problem, but if it goes away and doesn't come back worse, I don't think it's a mechanical engine balance issue. Most "little quivers" are the result of low output cylinders - meaning a misfire that goes away. Do you have access to a smart scope? They can see it easilly. Have you tried tuning your way out of it? Did any efforts change eitehr the amount of shake, or the rpm at which is goes away?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't know about that particular part number, but any balancer that has a rubber inertia ring can experience the problem where the ring deteriorates and the outer metal ring slips or even comes completely off.

 

[trudysduster]

no I don't have access to a scope. I don't run a tach in it but once it shifts into second gear it doesn't do it. It isn't in the tranny either I am just using that as a rpm / speed reference. it just seems to do it in the lower RPM's taking off. If I get in it a little on takeoff it doesn't do it. That is why I think it may be in the damper. I am not sure that particular damper has a rubber around it. I have not really looked at it. I was just sure someone on here would know if this had been a problem with this damper. I have had dampers when I was running Chevy engines have a rubber separate and it kinda feels the same . I guess I will just buy one a stick on it and that will tell me yea or nay wont it.

 

[trudysduster]

Moper, what do you think could be misfiring on it. I have one guy around here that I would trust touching my car. He runs a garage but not sure how good he is on Mopars. I may call him and ask if he has a scope. I am going to get the mounts changed and try putting a new damper on it before I call him.

 

[trudysduster]

I just spoke to the guy at 440 source and he told me that the factory 3830482 bullet style damper does have rubber ring and they do have problems sometimes. He said that could very well be what my problem is. Take that for what it is worth, I don't know. He told me that there are places that will rebuild that damper but it does not have any timing markings on it so I think that would be useless to do. 440 source has an external balanced one for $99 or I may call Summit and see what they have. I am going to pull the radiator out when I change the motor mounts and just change the damper while I am in there. Any other suggestions on a good damper for an external balanced 440 that would work for street applications, let me know. Thanks

 

[moper]

No way the balance or balancer is the problem. Think about it... a harmonic issue will start at some rpm, then get worse, then go away as the frequency changes with rpm. Then it will come back as the rpms reach another point where the frequency can't be dampened again. Kind of liek the "whump...whump...whump" noise you get with a driveshaft out of phase. A physical imbalance will start mildly at low rpm, and rise as rpms increase. It won't come and go with rpm or thrpttle changes. It will always be there, from very faint or not enough to feel and getting to rattling your fillings as rpm increases. The mounts help reduce feel at idle. But new mounts are tighter - they transmit more of the low rpm shakes. Same with urethane and solid. Mounts can cause driveline angle issues and vibreation - but you won't feel it in park. The dampener helps with harmonics that result from the crank twisting and untwisting every time a cylinder fires. In a 90° crank throw engine it's fairly smooth because the pulses to some extent offset each other. If you have one that misses, it creates enough of a harmonic change that the dampener can't work with it.
If it isn't there when you're on it, it's a running/tuning issue. Probably a power valve or accelerator pump issue causing a lean miss. As far as tuning goes - Mopar or Nissan doesn't mean anything. If he's good with carbureted engines and performance carbs he can help you. If it was in my driveway I'd first check timing, then check the carb for current settings and the power valve for function or leakage, then do a compression test if that all looked good.

 

[trudysduster]

well thanks. I am not too good at that kind of thing. The carb is new and the timing, well it is close. don't know exactly where cuz the damper has no markings on it to set. That is one reason I bought a new one. will be in here in a few days. maybe then we can work on that. It has a 650 Thunder Series Eddy on it. But if it isn't the balancer, at least I can get a marking to set timing with. I will keep you guys updated here.

 

[hangn0ut]

New dampener? Must check it for TDC.